Why it costs more

Divers considering getting into CCR rebreather diving are, generally speaking, a few years into their diving career. In fact, many of them are technical divers, although you don’t have to be trained to hit great depths and complete long decompression stops to benefit from CCR diving.

With a few years of diving experience under your (weight)belt, you may have noticed that scuba diving is not a cheap hobby. And neither should it be. You are entering an environment that is alien to humans. To spend more time underwater safely requires more equipment. And while we may not always think of it that way, especially in the context of recreational diving, diving equipment is life support equipment.

The more you must rely on that equipment, so too must its quality improve. Technical divers committing to decompression stops arguably rely on their equipment more than recreational divers who could ascend directly, even though safety stops are highly recommended.

It’s about more than money

But even with lots of technical diving equipment, making bubbles and diving open circuit severely limits the time you can spend underwater. On the other hand, rebreathers will simply transform your diving. This is where the real advantage lies and where the argument becomes about more than money.  

Let’s accept that rebreather diving also requires a sizable investment to get started—as do golf, skiing, and many other adventure/extreme sports. In the case of rebreather diving, the investment is in both training and equipment. Granted, you can complete at least the initial training with a rental rebreather.

However, once you decide that CCR is for you and you want to continue, daily rental will become more expensive than owning your own rebreather. Plus, understanding your rebreather will make you a more confident and comfortable CCR diver.

You’re buying time

So, how does CCR diving transform your underwater adventures? Simply put, rebreathers buy you time. Since you are recycling your breathing gas (yes, this is oversimplified), a small amount lasts much longer. If, for example, you are in 65 feet (20 m) of water, watching a group of reef sharks or simply enjoying the reef life, low gas will eventually limit your dive time.

On a rebreather, remaining scrubber time often becomes more of a limiting factor. Depending on the model of rebreather you’re diving, as well as diving conditions, you tend to have three hours or more underwater. Consequently, putting on what looks like a lot of equipment becomes more worthwhile because you are doing it to remain underwater for two or three hours at a time.

Your next limit is no-stop time. As a recreational diver, you probably already know that you can extend your no-decompression limits to a degree by diving nitrox for as long as your depth allows. As a technical diver, you simply plan sufficient decompression gas to cover your mandatory stops, plus a reserve. But—and this is the clever bit—as a CCR diver, you’re loading less nitrogen and therefore racking up less stop time. How is that? Put simply, you are diving a set partial pressure known as set point and generally equaling a PO2 of 1.3. This means your rebreather is supplying you with the best possible gas to either extend your no-stop limits or minimize your decompression obligation. More diving, less penalty.

You’ll save money on helium

Very little technical diving occurs without using helium in different trimixes. No matter where you are in the world, helium is expensive. Rebreather diving means that you use dozens of liters of helium per dive as opposed to thousands of liters needed for an open-circuit, technical dive. Even taking the cost of scrubber material into account, your cost-per-dive for trimix rebreather dives is much, much lower than it would be on open circuit. Assuming your goal is to complete longer, deeper dives, this is a real saving.

If this all sounds a bit abstract, let’s make it more concrete. Take Chuuk Lagoon, for example. Here you’ll find dozens of shipwrecks over 325 feet (100 m) long at depths between 40 to 195 feet (12 to 60 m). Based on current recommendations, it’s prudent to dive anything below 130 feet (40 m) on trimix.

So, you have a huge wreck to explore. Assuming you have booked on a technical diving trip, there is no real limit to your dive time. Practically speaking, two to three hours is possible. The idea would be to complete one morning and one afternoon dive with a long surface interval. Being able to spend two, or even three, hours underwater will really allow you to explore those World War II wrecks. And, even after two weeks of dives—including on some of the deeper wrecks—your helium bill, if you’re diving CCR, will be a few hundred dollars rather than thousands. And that’s in a remote destination with some of the world’s highest helium prices.

Compare that to open circuit, and even when carrying lots of gas, your dive time will be shorter, and your gas bill will be larger.

Marine life interactions

Aside from financial arguments, you should consider marine life interaction. One of the biggest differences between open circuit and rebreather diving is the lack of bubbles and, consequently, the lack of noise. This means marine life comes closer and tends to stay longer. The quality and the quantity of your marine life encounters improves. In fact, many species simply don’t seem to know what to make of CCR divers and come in to take a closer look.

We could go on, but in conclusion, there is not much point in comparing one-hour dives at 65 feet (20 m) on open circuit with the same thing on a rebreather, because as a rebreather diver, you can now complete entirely different dives. Your diving limits will change, and the opportunities for underwater exploration open to you will increase incredibly. It’s worth it.

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Using your own gear, knowing that it’s in good condition, and that it fits you perfectly will help you relax and get the most out of your underwater experiences. But, with such a variety of brands, designs, and styles on offer, it can seem like a daunting task. Here we examine some of the things to consider when buying your first set of scuba gear.

There’s no need to buy everything at once

You could walk into a dive shop and get outfitted in one go. The sales assistant will be thrilled, especially if they’re working on commission. But is that such a good idea? Buying your gear bit by bit can help spread out the cost. And doing it this way also gives you the chance to try different brands and styles as you continue renting equipment.

You’ll definitely want to start with the basics. Some dive centers prefer divers to have their own mask and snorkel, so that’s the best place to start. Once you’ve found a well-fitting mask, consider getting a set of comfortable fins and then build up your dive bag from there. Most divers also decide early on that a dive computer is an essential piece of gear to own when starting out, closely followed by an exposure suit.

You don’t need to break the bank

Buying your first set of dive gear doesn’t need to cost an exorbitant sum. It’s important to remember that cost is not the most important thing when choosing equipment. Just because something has a high price tag doesn’t mean it’s the best choice for you. Many quality brands produce options to suit all budgets. Your focus should be on fit, comfort, and functionality.

What sort of diving will you be doing?

When buying your first set of scuba gear, consider where you’ll be doing most of your diving. The equipment you need to dive in cold water will be different from the equipment you need to dive in warm water, for example. Think about the type of diving you want to do. If you’re just starting out, there’s no need to splash out on a dive computer that’s aimed at technical divers. And do you really need that BCD with 16 D-rings or a knife that Crocodile Dundee would be proud of?

Buy from a reputable source

Secondhand scuba gear is readily available on auction websites, and although that bargain on eBay may seem like a great deal, you should be careful. When buying used scuba equipment, it is difficult to know exactly what you’re getting. Sellers may claim that something is “as new,” but how do you know how many times it’s been used or when a regulator or computer was last serviced — or if it ever has been?

Supermarkets often sell low-cost masks and snorkels. These are aimed at snorkelers and not designed or tested for depth. Buy a mask that’s made for scuba diving, with quality tempered glass.

Some dive schools change their equipment every couple of years and will often sell their old gear. It’s possible to pick up a great deal on their secondhand equipment, safe in the knowledge that it has been serviced regularly.

Speak to the professionals

Don’t be afraid to ask for advice. Speak to your instructor or divemaster. They will be happy to explain the differences in the equipment they’ve used over the years. Visit your local scuba club and talk with other divers about the features they like and the gear they own. You’ll find that divers are a friendly bunch who are probably all too happy to chat about equipment with you.

Also, do some online research. There are plenty of websites with reviews about different brands and styles of gear, along with their pros and cons.

Shop around

We don’t mean shop around to get the best price, rather, shop around so you can see the different kinds of equipment available. There are so many options that you’ll want to find what will suit you best. If possible, try things on. Many dive shops have arrangements with local clubs so divers can try certain bits of equipment before purchasing them.

Becoming a scuba addict is difficult to avoid. Your first set of gear is unlikely to be the only set you ever own. As you become more experienced and continue your education, you’ll probably want to upgrade or invest in more advanced pieces of kit.

So don’t let the prospect of buying your first set of scuba gear overwhelm you. Take your time, do your research, and, eventually, you’ll find the perfect equipment to enhance your underwater adventure.

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Open-heel vs. full-foot fins

Open-heel scuba fins feature a firm foot pocket that is open at the rear. A strap that reaches from either side of the fin and around the back of your heel keeps the fins in place on your feet. Divers who use open-heel fins always wear diving boots, which either attach directly to their drysuits, or are separate neoprene booties dedicated to scuba diving. As you can imagine, wearing boots with a thick sole allows divers to walk comfortably over sand, rocks, or other surfaces.

On the other hand, divers who use full-foot fins have nothing on their feet but the fins themselves. These scuba diving fins feature a thinner, more flexible foot pocket than open-heel fins. The pocket extends all the way around the back of the diver’s heel, keeping the fins firmly in place.

Those who dive exclusively off boats in warm water typically favor full-foot scuba fins. Because these divers don’t have to make shore entries, they don’t need the protection a boot offers. And, in warmer waters, the warmth that separate boots offer isn’t typically necessary.

That said, as a general rule of thumb, open-heel fins have a wider range of use and are better suited to certain dive environments. Ultimately, you should buy the fins that suit where you’d like to dive. If you’re only ever going to dive off a boat, full-foot fins are fast, easy and convenient. Plus, you won’t have to buy boots. But if you’re making an investment and you want fins that you can take anywhere, open-heel plus booties is best.

Now that we’ve got the basics out of the way, let’s look at the types of fins you’ll see for sale.

Basic Types of Scuba Diving Fins

While each type has its merits — with the possible exception of flippable fins (more on those later) —certain scuba fins may be better suited to certain types of diving. Plenty of divers will tell you exactly why the fins they use are best but at the end of the day, much of it just comes down to personal preference.

Paddle Fins

Interestingly, no one in the dive industry ever calls these “paddle” fins, because they’re the original fin. Featuring a solid yet flexible blade, paddle fins can be either open-heel or full foot. Design features such as channels and small cutouts in the blade aid propulsion underwater.

Jet Fins

Once the preserve of technical divers, heavy jet fins are growing in popularity and plenty of recreational-only divers prefer them. You can tell jet fins by their seemingly clunky design, vented slots near the foot pocket, and by the fact that most are exclusively black.

After you learn to use them correctly, jet fins offer a lot of power with minimal effort. But, if you’re buying your first-ever pair of scuba diving fins, try paddle fins first. Jet fins are substantially more expensive and harder to use initially. Jet fins are always open-heel.

Split Fins

The idea behind split fins it that they offer more speed and power with less effort. Here, the fin’s blade is split into two parts to reduce drag. A raging debate endures in the scuba world between split-fin proponents and those who think split fins are pointless. This is really a matter of preference. Split fins are easy to use with no special knowledge or fin stroke required.

Hinged Fins

Hinged fins are like a standard paddle fin but the fin’s blade is connected to a hinge mechanism that allows the blade to flip upward and away from the foot pocket. The idea here is that divers can walk comfortably in their scuba diving fins. It seems like a good idea, however, that hinge point represents a significant vulnerability. Having your fin flip or break underwater is less than ideal. We recommend that you give these a pass and put your fins on in the water or on the boat.

Fitting Your Scuba Fins

Open-Heel

Open-heel fins come in sizes from XXS to XXL. Expect to see sizes such as SM (small-medium) and ML (medium-large). To check the fin fits well, place your foot (with the scuba boot on) inside the foot pocket. Your foot should feel snug and secure but not too tight. There should be two to three fingers’ width between the base of the foot pocket and the heel of your boot. Do not walk around the shop in the fins.

Full-Foot

Full-foot fins come in traditional size categories and often in ranges, for example, size 39 to 41. To check if a full-foot fin fits well, roll the back of the foot pocket down and slot your foot in. Then roll the rubber pocket back up and over your heel. Your foot should be quite snug but not constricted in any way.

As above, don’t walk around in your fins, there really are better ways of testing them. If you’re buying online, make sure you check the manufacturer’s sizing guidelines.

We hope our brief guide to buying your first scuba fins has helped with some of the questions you had. If you would like to know anything else about scuba diving fins, please drop us a comment below and we’ll get back to you soon!

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DAN insurance and dive certification card

When it comes to diving safely and responsibly it is important to remember both your dive insurance card and your certification card. In some countries, coast guards or authorities can ask for your proof of certification or dive insurance. If you want to leave your cards safe onshore you can always keep a copy of these documents at hand.

Reusable water bottle

As a diver, you know how important it is to keep more plastic out of the ocean. Not only does a reusable bottle help fight plastic pollution, but it also saves a lot of extra costs. Most dive centers these days have water dispensers and encourage divers to fill up their bottles as needed.

Reef-friendly sunscreen

Avoid sunscreens containing chemicals such as oxybenzone and octinoxate. Researchers think these two ingredients contribute to coral bleaching and harm marine life. Mineral oils that can take years to biodegrade can also fatally damage marine life, and the same goes for titanium dioxide. If you do use sunscreen, choose a biodegradable one like Stream2Sea.

Spare mask

A spare mask always saves the day. With wear and tear, your mask can fog up; the strap might snap; or a buddy can forget theirs. It’s best to bring a backup, just in case.

Dive camera

There are many compact dive cameras on the market these days. If you’ve got one, stash it in your drybag before you head out so that you don’t remember it’s back in the hotel room as you back roll into the water.

Snack bar/nuts

Although most dive trips offer snacks or lunch, it’s always good to have an extra protein bar or mixed nuts on hand. A full day out diving can create quite an appetite.

Buff scarf

A buff scarf or other neck protection is a good idea for some extra sun and element protection, or to simply keep your hair out of your face in windy conditions.

Towel

Most dive boats don’t have them onboard, so if you want one, bring a thin, microfiber towel. Typically they are small enough to roll up and save space in your drybag.

Spare o-ring and Allen wrenches

A basic scuba tool kit can go a long way toward saving a dive. O-rings and inserts can sometimes be very unpredictable, so it’s always handy to have some tools on the boat or at the dive location on shore to be able to fix leaks or change inserts on the spot.

Leave-in conditioner 

Leave-in conditioner not only comes handy to tame that mermaid/merman mane, but it’s also a great lubricant for open-cell wetsuits. Just mix a little bit of conditioner with water and before you can blink, you’ll be suited up and ready for your dive.

Although you don’t want to take too much along for a day out on the boat, you also don’t want to be caught without an essential item. Keep your drybag essentials minimal, simple and accessible and you’ll be able to focus on a great day underwater knowing you’re well prepared topside.

Story by MONIQUE SCHOUTEN

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First things first — looks. The Donatello resembles most of Cressi’s other computers, including the Goa and Giotto, which I’ve used on and off for years. It’s got a black strap and features five different color choices for the ring around the display; I chose red. For the first time I’ve also gotten the interactive Bluetooth interface, designed to work with the Michelangelo and Donatello computers, which I’ve never done before.

But back to the computer. The Leonardo, Donatello, and Michelangelo all feature Cressi’s “one-button” navigation system, which makes this a great computer for those of us who want no muss and no fuss. The Donatello is the newest of the three, launched in 2020 with the tagline that it’s for people who “just want to dive.” There’s also an edge-to-edge, high-definition screen that features large numbers, which is helpful for those of us who are starting to have trouble seeing close-up (ahem). A back-lit display, clearly visible battery-life indicator, and user-changeable battery all make it even easier to use.

Finally, the Donatello comes with a printed quick guide to getting the computer set up, with a full downloadable manual available as well. I’ve never been one for reading directions, though, so I dive right in. 

Setting up the Cressi Donatello

After trying on the computer and pressing the button a bunch of times, I decide I might peek at the manual after all. The computer features Air, Nitrox, Gage, and Freediving modes, but I’ll only use the first two. I’ll likely want to set a few alarms and a deep stop too.

The first page of the quick guide looks like the easiest Ikea instructions I’ve ever seen and basically describes how long to hit the button for each change you want to make. I decide to first try to set the time. You can choose between the 12-hour day or 24-hour day — since I’ve never quite gotten the hang of military time, I choose 12-hour day. I thumb through the book to the page that describes the process, but, just as with other Cressi one-button computers, I find my instincts to just mess around with the button rather than try to decipher the quick guide work best for me.

With one button, there’s not much you can mess up with this computer, and it’s easy to fix if you choose — or don’t choose — an option you wanted. One long push sends you back to the beginning menu, and a combination of short and long-ish pushes allows you to choose your settings.  

I’ve successfully set the time and date; now it’s time to set the nitrox. I typically set it for 32% on any new computer and go from there once I’ve tested my mix at a dive site. Just as with the time setting, the Donatello makes it quite intuitive to set your mode. I scroll through the different screens with one short push, find the one I’m looking for, and successfully set my nitrox. Now to test it out in the water.

Who it’s best for

Overall, the Donatello is extremely easy to set and very intuitive when it comes to doing so. It would be a great computer for a new diver, or one who didn’t want a complicated computer, like me. Functionality on the Donatello is great, but it’s probably not the computer for someone who’s planning lots of complicated dives.

Pros

• Very easy functionality
• Comes in several bright color choices
• User can change battery
• Bluetooth interface available (sold separately)

Cons

• Cycling through all the options with the 1-button can be tricky at first
• Probably not the best for advanced divers/those who want to plan complicated dives

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Unboxing the A1 Mask

The first thing I notice is the Cressi Antifog Lens Coating sticker. There’s a note in the mask box that advises wearers not to use toothpaste on the mask to remove the protective coating, something I’ve long done. Wearers are also told not to rub the lenses or use any anti-fog solution. I’m guessing this means I won’t be burning this mask either, which I usually do. I’m skeptical about whether or not the mask will fog without any treatment, but I’m willing to give it a try.

The A1 comes in several cool color combos, and some models feature yellow lenses. I’ve got the black/pink mask with yellow lenses, which is also new for me. The pink is a pretty iridescent shade, and the mask, while it does have a frame, also has a single lens, which I prefer. It creates a nice seal on my face when I test it out and seems like a good fit for my face size and shape. The nose pocket is soft and seems like it will make equalizing all the easier.

I wonder what effect these yellow lenses will have underwater. The Cressi materials say the yellow increases the contrast and makes objects more visible, as well as increasing the vibrancy of the colors underwater.

The inclined lenses are shaped like inverted teardrops, which makes for enhanced downward visibility. The skirt and strap are flexible and soft without sacrificing durability or quality, and the top of the internal skirt has a nifty double edge that seems like it will create an even more secure seal.

I don’t typically switch out my mask strap for a fabric one, so I always look for one that’s easy to manage. The buckle on the A1 has two buttons that allow for easy strap adjustment, and it seems like it will be a breeze to adjust the strap to my preferred fit. Overall, this is a sharp-looking mask that I can’t wait to try out on my upcoming dive trip.

Unboxing the F-Dual Mask

The F-Dual comes in eight different color combinations. I’m looking at a solid white one with a small pink outline around the inside of the mask. On first glance, it’s the kind of mask I would have picked out for myself — frameless, single-lens, and simple. The mask design features a silicone double-feathered edge skirt, according to Cressi, which is bonded directly to the single pane of tempered glass — hence no need for a frame.

It’s also a low-volume mask, which I typically prefer. The nose pocket is nice and soft, which will make for easier clearing, and the buckles look to be as easy to maneuver as the A1 buckles I mentioned above. Just like the A1, the F-Dual creates a nice seal when I test it on my face. The F-Dual does seem to lack the antifog coating of the A1, so it’ll be the toothpaste and possible burning route for this one.

Both the A1 and the F-Dual look like solid contenders for trips to come, but I’m most excited to see what — if any — difference the yellow lenses make on the A1. 

Post-Trip Update

I took the A1 to Florida and—despite my initial skepticism—I did not need to defog the mask with toothpaste or burn it, after a liberal coating with spit to prevent fogging, of course. The A1 fit well and did great out in the field, and I found the yellow lenses to function similar to polarized sunglasses—you don’t realize how cool things look with them on until you take them off.

Colors popped, and, when I took the mask off at the surface, I realized just how much of a difference the yellow lenses made underwater. I did notice that the mask would often briefly fog upon descent, but was easily fixed with a brief flood-and-clear, although that could have had something to do with the fit, not the anti-fog properties of the mask. Either way, the A1 is coming with me on dive trips to come — stay tuned for a post-dive report on the F-Dual.

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Choosing between different styles and brands of diving equipment and weighing recommendations and personal preferences may seem hard enough, but it would be positively heartbreaking if you damaged your new gear simply because you didn’t look after it. Never fear — you needn’t become a scuba technician just yet to keep this from happening. Many agencies offer an equipment-focused course that gives you more knowledge about your gear, as well as hands-on experience in taking care of it. These classes are generally good value, especially if you’re not technically minded or simply didn’t grow up taking apart and putting back together cars in your spare time.

If that’s not available to you, here are some practical pointers.

Start with cleaning

Maintaining your equipment really begins with how well you clean it. While it’s usually not necessary to wash equipment between dives, you should make an exception for computers and cameras to prevent salt residue from drying on the outside of your equipment and potentially damaging buttons and other moving parts. Most other equipment is fine with a freshwater wash at the end of a diving day. Rinse tanks allow you to fully immerse your gear, which is a great way to remove or minimize salt residue. Beware, however, of being the last person to use the tank at the end of the day. In a busy dive center, you’ll be washing your gear in brackish water and should add a freshwater rinse from a hose if possible.

On a dive vacation like a week-long liveaboard, there are often restrictions on how much water you can use. In that case it’s a good idea to give your gear another thorough wash when you return home. If you’re limited for space, use your shower or bathtub to clean gear.

Exposure gear like wetsuits and booties often benefit from being rinsed with a bit of disinfectant on a daily basis, especially if you had to pee in them. At the end of a trip, consider washing your suits, rash vests and boots with a gentle shampoo or specialized wetsuit shampoo.

Drying your gear

Having talked about washing, drying is just as important. Dive pros can sympathize with this one: as most of our gear is never really dry, it’s hard to prevent mold growth, especially in warm, tropical environments. At best unhygienic, over time this mold will start to eat away on the silicone skirt of masks and more. Even if it takes three days to dry out those booties: do it.

Preventative care

Another secret to well-maintained dive gear is simply to prevent problems. Every so often, examine things like mask and fin straps for deterioration. Often, dive gear deteriorates over time as opposed to failing without warning. You may be able to spot the rubber on the strap looking brittle in good time before it breaks in the water. Similarly, a small tear in a mask strap may take a bit of noticing but often develops long before the strap actually rips.

Mind those hoses

If you have your own regulators, hose protectors may hide more problems than they prevent. Many technical divers simply remove them or choose hoses without protectors in order to monitor any deterioration and aging hoses.

If your regulators have hose protectors, pull them back from time to time to clean underneath and check the health of the hose itself. Look for corrosion on the metal parts, for example. If you are using Miflex or similar hoses the outside braiding may begin to fray. That may not require immediate hose replacement, but it’s smart to check with a technician.

Rubber hoses start to get brittle on the outside, meaning the internal braiding that holds the pressure of the gas in the hose is less protected. Brittle rubber may signify that the hose itself is aging. How long you can use a hose varies from manufacturer to manufacturer but, in general, extreme environments exact a bigger toll than moderate conditions do. How much you use your gear also plays a role.

If you can see bubbles forming under the rubber part of a hose, it’s reached the end of its lifespan. Bubbles mean gas has escaped the braiding under the rubber, and the hose is no longer strong enough to hold pressure. Replace it now before it ruptures suddenly.

Other pieces of gear

It’s also easy to maintain the mouthpiece on your regulator. While not life-threatening, diving with a torn mouthpiece is at best uncomfortable and can prove distracting, thus taking away your focus and leading to other problems.

Next on our maintenance list are BCDs and wings. Every open-water diver learns to rinse the inside of their BCD. The main reason to do so is to keep bacteria from growing inside uncontrollably, which will eventually damage the bladder itself and shorten the BCD’s life. Rinsing it is all about protecting your expensive gear. Next, look at your inflators and dumps. Are all buttons and strings moving smoothly? If not, try cleaning them with hot, soapy water. Should that fail, it’s time to get the professionals on the case.

DIY when you can

Chances are, as your diving career progresses, you will become comfortable enough to fix small problems yourself, like changing O-rings on tanks, or the DIN connector of your regulator or at the end of a hose leading into your first stage. The key to competently doing so is having a tool kit and a few spares handy — a save-a-dive kit, so to speak. This needn’t be huge. In fact, there are plenty of useful multi tools available, some of which can even fit into a BCD pocket and safely go underwater.

Generally, divers will need a selection of Allen wrenches (know the difference between metric and imperial sizes and which you need), adjustable spanners and an O-ring pick or two as a start. Keep a selection of O-rings suitable for your equipment on hand and lastly, never underestimate the versatility of cable ties when it comes to saving a dive (or a dive day) by applying a temporary fix. While not ideal, especially when diving in a remote area, these can save more than just the proverbial day.

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Three main BCD types

Buoyancy Compensation Devices, or BCDs, allow divers to offset negative buoyancy on the surface and maintain neutral buoyancy underwater. As such, the key component of a BCD is its inflatable air bladder. The three basic BCD types have bladders that differ slightly.

Jacket BCDs

If you learned to scuba dive in rental equipment, you probably used a jacket BCD. These are, as the name suggests, much like inflatable waistcoats. A single air bladder surrounds the diver’s back and the part of the diver’s sides where the BCD conforms to the body.

Jacket-style units are easy to use and manage on the surface. As such, many divers choose one for their first-ever BCD. Jackets are user-friendly underwater too. The one drawback is that until divers get a feel for where the air is sitting in the large bladder, getting into a good trim position may be harder.

Wing BCDs

Wing BCDs differ from jacket-style BCDs as they do not conform to your body in the same way. Instead, wings are doughnut or horseshoe-shaped buoyancy devices that rest on the diver’s back. They are secured in place with straps and a harness.

This style of BCD is more difficult to master at first, but most divers will argue that wings allow better trim in the water. On the surface, a wing BCD’s air placement can push you forward slightly. Choose a wing if you can confidently and competently manage yourself on the surface. Otherwise, stick to a jacket-style unit.

Hybrid BCDs (back-inflate BCDs)

Hybrid or back-inflate BCDs are growing in popularity, especially as the lines between recreational diving and technical diving blur. As the name suggests, hybrids combine features from both wings and jacket-style units. The distribution of air in a hybrid makes maintaining trim underwater easy. They’re also simple to manage on the surface.

Weight Matters: integrated BCD or weight belt?

Another key decision is whether you’d like a BCD with integrated weight pockets, or if you’ll continue to use a weight belt as you did in your course.

BCDs with integrated weight systems feature large, dedicated pockets that you slip weights into. These pockets are then slotted into place and clipped in securely. As you can imagine, having all your required weights at the front of your body can affect you on the surface when you’re new to the sport. Underwater, it’s less of a concern, as you’re horizontal.

To mitigate any issues, many new divers who use integrated weight systems place weights in their trim pockets (located on either side of the tank strap at the back of the BCD) or onto the tank strap itself. Trim weight pockets are generally small and only hold a few pounds.

When you were training, you learned to use a weight belt, whether your BCD had integrated weights or not. Many divers choose to keep using a weight belt and don’t place much value on integrated weight systems. However, it’s largely a matter of personal preference. If you can, try diving with both types of BCD to see which you prefer before you buy one.

BCD fit

If you’re buying online, do a little research on the manufacturer and their sizes. Ideally, you’ll be able to try on a new BCD before you buy it at your local dive shop and purchase it there as well. Certain brands run larger than others, but most BCDs are adaptable when it comes to the size of the divers they can accommodate.

Getting the proper fit can make a lot of difference underwater, on the surface, and to your own comfort levels. BCDs that are too large can end up floating around your ears when you’re on the surface. Too small and you risk struggling with the straps at the waist.

A good rule of thumb is that you should buy a BCD in the same size as the T-shirts you wear. That said, do a little research and make sure the model you’re considering runs true to size.

Do I need a gender-specific BCD?

Unisex BCDs dominate the market and are the norm, but you’ll see an increasing number of units marketed specifically to women. The reasoning here is that BCDs designed for women are more comfortable on the female form.

Plenty of divers will tell you that’s nonsense and that any BCD is fine for women, while other female divers swear by these models. Again, this really comes down to personal preference. As a female diver, you do not need a BCD designed for women, but you may prefer these units.

Pockets

Pockets may seem like a bit of a trivial concern but trust us — you’ll miss them if you buy a unit without any storage options. Many units come with two large pockets at the front. Divers use these to store stuff like a spare mask, a torch, an SMB, and their reel.

If you go down the pocketless route, make sure the BCD has enough D-rings so you can securely clip your extra equipment to the unit. Some divers hate having bits and pieces dangling off them while others prefer this over bulky pockets.

Standard BCD features

Across models and brands, some things remain standard. All BCDs, no matter the type or the style, have these features:

Inflation system

Your BCD inflates in one of two ways: with air from the tank using the button on your LPI (low-pressure inflator hose), or via manual inflation.

BCDs are sold with LPIs, so you don’t need to purchase one separately. The hose connecting the LPI to the tank may or may come with the regulator you buy.

Deflation and dump valves

To offset increased buoyancy as you ascend (remember that gas expands as pressure drops) you need to remove air from your BCD occasionally to remain neutrally buoyant.

You deflate your BCD using the deflate button on your LPI or through the dump valves. Most BCDs have a dump valve on the right-hand shoulder and at the rear of the BCD, again on the right-hand side.

Getting your own scuba diving gear might feel like a big plunge, but once you’re suited and booted, you’ll find that having your own equipment is wonderful. Most divers feel more comfortable in own stuff and this holds true for BCDs in particular. Do your research and try a few before you buy for the best results, and you may find yourself diving more and more once your gear fits you well.

The post Buying Your First Scuba Diving BCD appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.

Fit is everything

Wetsuits, more than any other piece of scuba equipment, must fit you well. One way a properly fitted wetsuit keeps you warm is by trapping a thin layer of water between your body and the suit. Your body then heats up this water to help keep you cozy.

If a wetsuit fits poorly, water can flow in and out of the suit’s neck, wrist, and ankle seals as you dive, and the suit can’t perform the full breadth of its thermal functions.

Avoid this situation by checking the fit of a wetsuit before purchase. Or, if you’re shopping online, make sure the retailer accepts returns.

Here are a few hints when it comes to checking a wetsuit’s fit:

• The neck seal should be snug but not too tight.
• Wrist and ankle seals should lie flat against your skin and not pucker or gape as you move your limbs around.
• The suit should be tight — that’s how it keeps you warm, after all. But if it’s so tight that you’re unable to stretch both your arms above your head and press your hands together, you need to go up a size.
• The wetsuit’s crotch should be close to your own, not stuck in limbo somewhere between your nether regions and your knees.
• Make sure the suit’s arms and legs reach your wrists and ankles. If they don’t, consider going up a size or ordering the suit’s tall version.
• The wetsuit should conform to your body everywhere. If it pulls away from your body along your spine, it’s probably too small. This is more of an issue for women and it’s often the reason why rear-zip wetsuits rip at the zip’s bottom.

Choose the right level of thermal protection

It’s no good buying a state-of-the-art 7 mm double-layer suit if you intend to dive the tropics and never venture into cooler climes. Likewise, a 3 mm shorty wetsuit won’t serve you well in Northern European waters, even in the summer.

Buy the right suit for the type of diving you’re doing, and you’ll stay comfortable underwater and on the shore. Wetsuits come in fairly standard thickness ratings, measured in millimeters. The thicker the suit, the warmer it is. Here’s a guide to water temperatures and the suits best suited to the climate:

75 to 85 F (23 to 29 C): 1 to 3 mm neoprene wetsuits or, at the warmer end of the scale, Lycra skinsuits that provide protection from any marine stingers floating past you. If stingy stuff isn’t an issue, feel free to wear a short, thin wetsuit or a rash vest and board shorts.

65 to 75 F (18 to 23 C): In moderate waters, choose a 5 mm full suit. To add a little extra warmth, a hood or a chicken vest (yes you read that right) can do wonders. Chicken vests add an extra layer to your torso and are generally 1 to 3 mm thick.

50 to 65 F (10 to 18 C): Choose a 7-mm full suit and add extra neoprene layers if water temperatures are at the cool end of this bracket.

40 to 50 F (4 to 10 C): At the warmer end of the scale, a 7-mm full suit or double suit might suffice for a short dive, but when it gets this cold, you really need a drysuit.

Weights and buoyancy

 Neoprene wetsuits contain tiny bubbles of air in the suit’s material. This helps keep you warm, but it also makes you buoyant. As a result, you need more weight if you dive in a thicker suit than in a thinner suit. So, if you’re changing from a rental 5 mm to your own 7 mm, take along a few extra pounds.

New wetsuits are extra buoyant. As divers use them and they compress, they’ll lose a bit of this buoyancy. So, don’t be surprised if your brand-new suit needs more weight than you anticipated.

As you’ll remember from your training, gas compresses with depth. As you go deeper, your wetsuit will get thinner and offer less thermal protection. And, in some dive locations, thermoclines mean the water will be one temperature nearer the surface and experience much as a 10-degree drop once you pass a certain depth. Make sure your suit can keep you warm at depth.

Seals and zips

Wetsuits are like any product — the more expensive they are, the better they should perform. Seals and zips are both factors that affect a suit’s quality and its price.

Where possible, choose wetsuits with solid, sturdy zips — YKK brand zips are always reliable. Cheap, flimsy plastic lasts about as long as you’d expect.

While most wetsuits once had back zips as a rule, front zipping suits are becoming more common. Zipper placement is largely a matter of choice. Some divers don’t mind hauling rear zips up with the dedicated tag; other divers prefer an easy to manage front zip.

Some divers are using zipper-less suits too. These are often more expensive or have been designed with freediving in mind. That said, they’re perfectly fine for scuba.

Wetsuits are often marketed as having “sealed” seams. This means that all the seams have been glued together in addition to the standard sewing in place. The result is less water seeping in through the seams, which, in turn, keeps you warmer.

Brand matters

Most dive-equipment manufacturers make wetsuits. The brand doesn’t really matter; quality and fit are far more important. But choosing one of the well-known producers should guarantee a quality product.

The following brands all make popular scuba diving wetsuits:

• Fourth Element
• O’Neill
• Aqualung
• Bare
• Cressi
• Scubapro
• Hollis
• Mares

You can also look outside scuba diving to find great wetsuits. O’Neill, for example, is perhaps better known as a surf brand. Likewise, Billabong, Rip Curl and Quicksilver all make wetsuits that do double duty on a board and underwater. 

We hope this guide to choosing your first scuba wetsuit was helpful. Buying a scuba diving wetsuit is a great first step to enhancing every dive you undertake

The post Buying Your First Scuba Diving Wetsuit appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.

What is an entry-level dive computer?

You’ll see the term entry-level often. This simply means that the dive computer is designed for and marketed to beginner divers.

Entry-level computers don’t have all the bells and whistles more expensive or technically advanced models have. But they do offer all the functionality a recreational diver needs.

Dive computer algorithms

Different dive computers and manufacturers favor different algorithms. An algorithm is a theoretical model that estimates how much dissolved gas your body loads during dives and offloads during surface intervals.

Suunto dominates the entry-level dive computer market. Their computers use Suunto’s version of the Reduced Gradient Bubble Model or RGBM for short. Mares and Cressi also favor this algorithm in their entry-level models.

The RGBM is the perfect choice for a new diver, as it’s a relatively conservative model that is well equipped to handle multiple dives over multiple days.

Nitrox compatibility

You might not be nitrox certified yet but if you continue diving, it’s highly likely you’ll pursue the certification. Nitrox or EANx — the terms are interchangeable — means Enriched Air Nitrox. It’s a gas mixture for diving that contains more oxygen and less nitrogen than your standard air tank. So, a diver might choose to dive with 32 percent or 36 percent O₂ in their tank instead of the normal 20 percent in regular air tanks.

The primary benefit of diving nitrox is that it exposes you to less nitrogen — the other gas that makes up scuba tanks and the gas that governs your no-decompression limits and bottom times. A knock-on effect is longer allowable bottom times.

These days, almost all dive computers are nitrox compatible. Just double-check that the model you’re considering offers this functionality before you buy. Note that you only need O₂ compatibility of up to 40 percent. Dive computers that support 100 percent O₂ are for technical divers who use a higher percentage oxygen to accelerate their decompression.

Dive computer modes

Manufacturers list the modes their computers can operate in. These modes are pretty standard, and you’ll note that there is little variation among entry-level models.

Here are the modes you’ll see and what each means:

• Air — This mode is for standard scuba dives with a tank of air.
• EANx or nitrox — Use this mode when you’re diving nitrox.
• Gauge — In gauge mode, a computer acts as a bottom timer. It will display your time and depth but will not give you a bottom time or no-decompression limit.
• Freediving — Also called ‘Free,’ this mode is designed for no-tank, breath-hold diving. Choose a computer with a freediving mode if you’re also interested in this sport.
• Off — The computer is not tracking water exposure, depth, or time. This mode can be useful if you wear your computer like a watch and spend lots of time splashing around on the surface.

Air integration

Computers with air integration allow you to pair your device to a wireless transmitter on your regulator’s first stage. The computer will then display how much air you have in your tank during the dive.

You still need to use a traditional air gauge during your dives though, just in case the transmitter fails. Entry-level computers with air integration are more expensive and you should also consider the cost of the transmitter.

User-changeable battery

A dive computer battery doesn’t last forever, and you will need to replace it at some point. Certain models allow you to do this yourself, while others require you to send the computer to the manufacturer or take it to a licensed service center.

If you prefer to change the battery yourself, choose a model that allows you to do so. Just know that making an error means you may void your warranty.

What about rechargeable batteries?

Rechargeable batteries are a good option and allow you to skirt the perils of changing your own battery and avoid taking your computer to the shop. That said, few entry-level computers have rechargeable batteries, possibly because of price considerations.

Does brand matter?

Yes and no. Some divers have a preference for one or two brands while other divers are happy to use gear from multiple manufacturers.

When it comes to computers, we recommend sticking to a well-known dive equipment brand. Below are some of the common brands you’ll see. All of these companies make reliable entry-level dive computers.

• Suunto
• Cressi
• Mares
• Oceanic
• Beuchat
• Seac
• Aqualung
• Scubapro

Watch style or classic?

Ask yourself what you will do with your dive computer. That might seem like a funny question because obviously you’ll go diving with it. But do you also want it to do double-duty as a daily watch?

If so, choose a smaller, watch-style dive computer. Classically styled models are large and chunky. They’re unmistakably a dive computer and might not be suitable for the office. If, on the other hand, you intend to wear the computer every day, choose a small, sleek model that doesn’t look out of place with your work outfit.

The post Buying Your First Dive Computer appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.

Even though the guidance on how to slow the spread of the novel coronavirus changes from day to day in different parts of the world, we are now certain that it can survive on surfaces for hours or even days. We also know that effective hand washing with soap and water goes a long way toward avoiding the spread of the virus.

If you are in an area where diving is still allowed (at the time of writing the cenotes in Cozumel remained open to those already in the area), stay on top of your own personal hygiene including hand washing, keeping a distance from others when possible, and avoiding touching your face.

Most of us, however, are likely to be landlocked for at least a few weeks, so deep cleaning and disinfecting our equipment is a great way to keep busy and make sure gear is in top shape when it’s time to get back in the water.

What to use

Depending on what your gear is made of, the virus’ survival time may vary from a few hours to potentially several days.

Prioritize any equipment that comes in contact with your face and respiratory tract when it comes to disinfecting, including masks and regulators — especially mouthpieces and areas surrounding them — BCD inflators and snorkels. Rebreather divers have a bit of an advantage when it comes to disinfecting equipment, as this is part of their regular equipment maintenance. If you have friends who dive CCR, they may be able to help with tips and advice.

You can easily make an effective disinfectant solution with standard household products. DAN Europe recommends a solution of sodium hypochlorite (standard household bleach) and water, using 1 percent of bleach only. Another useful disinfectant, which rebreather divers will be familiar with, is Steramine, based on the active ingredient quaternary ammonium. If you’re unsure if your household cleaning products will be effective, check out the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)’s regularly updated list of useful disinfectants.

Cleaning your gear

Before mixing this solution and immersing your equipment in it, however, check manufacturer recommendations for your specific brand of equipment. If the instruction manual doesn’t specify, it may be worth contacting the manufacturer to confirm recommended products and procedures.

Once your disinfectant mix is ready to go, immerse the equipment and let it soak for 15 or more minutes. It’s important that your solution is not too strong as this may permanently damage the metal parts of your equipment.

There are a few areas to pay particular attention to: for masks, focus on the inside of the skirt. Especially if you clean your mask by spitting in it, take care to clean it thoroughly. Pay particular attention to creases or layers in the skirt, as well as the area where frame and glasses meet and the nose pocket — in short, all the areas where dirt and contamination are likely to stick.

If you carry a back-up mask, don’t forget to disinfect that as well. Especially if you often store it in a pocket and it remains wet between diving days, spend some time cleaning and disinfecting it, as well as the storage pocket itself and any other items you keep there.

Regulator second stages and mouthpieces are another key piece of equipment requiring special attention at this time. If a simple cable tie secures your mouthpieces, consider cutting that and removing it completely. This allows you to clean the area that’s normally under the mouthpiece and often prone to dirt build-up. Inspect the mouthpiece and check on its overall condition. If it looks a bit old or is even partially torn, consider replacing it. Those who are a bit more familiar with second stages should consider removing the front cover and thoroughly cleaning the inside.

Other steps

Next, on to your BCD. Oral BCD inflation is part of standard pre-dive checks, meaning you blow into your BCD every time you dive. Not only should you disinfect the actual inflator assembly, but also the inside of the BCD’s bladder.

Once you’ve completed the disinfection, thoroughly rinse your equipment with clean, fresh water. This sounds obvious, but especially on tropical islands, fresh water can be hard to come by and — depending on supplies — you might consider using drinking water.

After rinsing comes drying. Find a clean, shady area to dry your freshly disinfected equipment thoroughly before storing it.

If any of this sounds complicated or laborious, get in touch with your local dive shop. Chances are that things are very quiet for them at the moment, and equipment and servicing are two of the things they can still offer their customers while practicing social distancing.

A note on rental equipment: with most of the diving industry on hiatus, not many divers are renting equipment at the moment. However, when you next dive, take a close look at rental equipment and cleaning facilities offered by the shop or boat. By definition, many divers use rental masks, snorkels and regulators, so ask about the shop’s cleaning routine post COVID-19 and whether equipment has been regularly disinfected.

The post Cleaning Dive Gear in Times of Covid-19 appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.

Fourth Element OceanPositive

This popular dive gear company from the U.K. produces a broad range of sustainable swimwear and is well-known for a commitment to ocean conservation.

Products tested:

• Light coverage: Thresher bikini
• Medium coverage: Mako bikini & Harlequin swimsuit
• Full coverage: Long-sleeve Hydroskin and Hydro Leggings

What makes OceanPositive swimwear great for divers?

• Broad range of swimwear styles for all shapes, sizes and preferences
• Wrist loops prevent Hydroskin sleeves from bunching up when donning your wetsuit
• Lightweight, quick drying materials
• Affordable options for all budgets

What are the products made from?

• ECONYL, a recycled nylon made from recovered ghost nets and other ocean wastes.

 Sun protection and degradation resistance

• Chlorine, heat and sunscreen resistant
• UPF50+ sun protection 

How did the products perform?

All of the products were true to size and didn’t pinch anywhere despite not having adjustable straps/sizes.

Of all the swimwear brands tested, the OceanPositive products were the quickest to dry between dives, even in the shade, making them ideal for multi-dive days.

While the Thresher bikini offers a sleek and minimal design, the removable padded cups and racer-back straps were still supportive.For fuller coverage, I recommend the Mako bikini and swimsuit. The Mako bikini top clasp and the swimsuit straps were a bit fussy, but they have one big advantage — you can tie the swimwear onto a liveaboard rail for drying without worrying they’ll blow away.

How is Fourth Element supporting ocean conservation?

• Constantly reviewing old products to add more sustainable fabrics
• Working closely with Reef World International and Global Ghost Gear Initiative
• Regularly helping with beach clean ups and retrieving ghost fishing nets
• Working to environmental standards that minimize the use of harmful chemicals
• Using biodegradable packaging 

SlipIns 

Robin Chesnie and Rick Rickman created SlipIns because of Chesnie’s struggles getting in and out of thick wetsuits. Seeing many other women struggling in the same way, she came up with products that make it easy to get in and out of our wetsuits.

Products tested

• AquaMermaid Swimsuit
• Whale Shark DiveSkin

What makes SlipIns swimwear great for divers?

• Material has plenty of stretch for comfort and easy movement in the water
• Foot stirrups and thumb holes keep the suit in place when putting your wetsuit on
• The one-piece DiveSkins provide protection against abrasions and stinging ocean critters

What are the products made from?

• Nylon, polyester and Spandex

Sun protection and degradation resistance

• UPF 60+ rating and full-body sun protection

How did the products perform?

Admittedly, I was self-conscious about being dressed as a whale shark on a boat full of guys but I felt fabulous from the moment I put the DiveSkin on.

The material is unbelievably silky and lightweight. Both the DiveSkin and swimsuit are also extremely flattering and stretchy. As well as being perfect under a wetsuit, the products were great for snorkeling and for covering up in the sun.

How is SlipIns supporting ocean conservation?

• SlipIns eliminate the need for sunscreen during water sports, thanks to a full range of high-coverage swimwear for men and women
• Helping to minimize harmful chemicals entering the ocean by decreasing our use of sunscreens

Gemma Lee

Founded by ocean-loving Kiwi and fashion graduate Gemma Lee, this eco-conscious surf and dive label really stands out from the crowd with its vibrant swimwear and wetsuits.

Products tested

• Retro Tides 2mm Springsuit

What makes Gemma Lee wetsuits great for divers?

• Vibrant colors and limited-edition designs
• Ideal for underwater photography subjects
• Flat-locked stitched seams for extra comfort in the water
• Lightweight suits offer flexible layering for warm- and cool-water dives
• Front zippers make it easy to wear and remove the suits

What are the products made from?

• Eco-conscious 2mm limestone-based neoprene
• All nylon features are made from recycled PET bottles.

Sun protection and degradation resistance

• High sun protection from neoprene wetsuit coverage

How did the product perform?

The vibrant patterns on Gemma Lee suits add a great pop of color to your dive kit. At 2mm, the Springsuit is thin enough to easily wear under a wetsuit but is also suitable for and tropical diving on its own.

Personally, I loved the suit for extra warmth when snorkeling. It didn’t restrict my movements in any way, even when going up and down dive platform ladders.

The fit was true to size and the low rise cut on the hips is ideal for coverage over a bikini. It’s a great lightweight suit for travel when you’re tight on luggage allowance but want a warm layer that fits like a glove.

How is Gemma Lee supporting ocean conservation?

Gemma Lee has taken numerous steps to ensure her products are sustainable, ethical and eco-conscious, including:

• Yarn made of PET bottles
• Using limestone-based neoprene instead of petroleum-based neoprene
• Gemma Lee’s textile supplier does not use hazardous chemicals in the dyes
• The dyeing process uses 80 percent less water than standard dyeing techniques

Ocean Mimic 

Ocean Mimic is a charity and global movement empowering individuals to reduce the amount of plastic entering the oceans. As part of their mission, Ocean Mimic has created recycled swimwear inspired by the creatures they aim to protect.

Products tested

• Parrotfish bodysuit

What makes Ocean Mimic bodysuits great for divers?

• Variety of ocean-themed designs, from parrotfish and clownfish to whale sharks
• Soft and breathable fabric with two-way stretch and unrestricted movement
• Lightweight and versatile for dive travel
• Thicker panels front and back for coverage without need for a swimsuit underneath

What are the products made from?

• Made from 100 percent recycled material: 78 percent recycled ECONYL yarn; 22 percent Elastane

Sun protection and degradation resistance

• UPF 50 sun protection
• Chlorine, sunscreen and saltwater resistant

How did the product perform?

The high neck and low-rise hip design provided great sun protection and the suit was very comfortable (and warm) under a wetsuit.

I really liked the thicker fabric panels at the front and back of the suit for modesty. You could easily wear this suit without a bikini underneath. The suit sizes are quite small and less stretchy than other suits I tried, so go up a size for comfort.

The sleeves stayed in place perfectly under my wetsuit, despite having no thumb loops, and the zipper is built to last.

How is Ocean Mimic supporting ocean conservation?

• Organizing beach clean-ups
• Educating local children about why plastic is a problem and providing solutions to plastic pollution
• For every $10 you spend with Ocean Mimic, the charity pledges to pick up 1 kg (2.2 pounds) of waste
• Product packaging is entirely recyclable and plastic-free

Waterlust

Waterlust began as an experimental project by ocean science graduates and has evolved into a popular dive-clothing brand supporting ocean science and conservation initiatives.

Products tested

• Whale Shark Warrior leggings and reversible top

What makes Waterlust leggings and tops great for divers?

• Seamless, reversible top with no tags
• Good mid-level support and moisture wicking: ideal for diving, yoga, swimming, etc.
• Resilient 4-way stretch and shape retention
• Customizable legging lengths
• Internal front waistband leggings pocket
• Deep side pockets for other essentials

What are the products made from?

• Repreve, a material made from post-consumer plastic bottles

Sun protection and degradation resistance

• 100 percent chlorine, sun, saltwater and sunscreen resistant
• UPF 50+ sun protection

How did the products perform?

Waterlust leggings are thicker than other dive leggings and add plenty of warmth when diving and snorkeling. I found the fabric took a while to dry because of its thickness but the product versatility made up for that.

Designed for use in numerous sports, the leggings and top fit closely and the high waist was secure and comfortable. It was easy to fold the waistband over for a lower waist if preferred.

The deep pockets on the leggings are great for safely storing essentials. You can wear the leggings long or easily pull them up just under the knees.

Top tip: Keep the legs long for wearing comfortably over your feet with closed-heel fins.

How is Waterlust supporting ocean conservation?

• 100 percent recycled and recyclable packaging
• Mailer bags are made from 100 percent post-consumer material and dual-adhesive strips mean you can reuse the bags
• Partnering with researchers and educators on ocean conservation work and sharing their findings online
• Donating 10 percent of profits to support ocean conservation and research initiatives

Batoko

Batoko, a small, fun swimwear brand in the U.k. creates swimsuits that are bold, flattering and eye-catching.

Products tested

• Orca swimsuit

What makes Batoko swimwear great for divers?

• Classic shape and great coverage
• They’re fully lined, so no see-through swimwear when diving
• Great bust support without cups or wiring
• Work for a variety of body heights and shapes, making them ideal for active pursuits
• Batoko produces matching adult and kids swimwear for the whole dive family

What are the products made from?

• 100 percent recycled plastic (polyester)
• Vegan-friendly products

Sun protection and degradation resistance

• Not tested for sun protection, but polyester has a high resistance to UV radiation and the fabric is tightly woven
• Polyester is very resistant to chlorine

How did the products perform?

I couldn’t stop smiling when wearing the orca swimsuit. The suits are great fun and offer unique designs. The material was very soft and yet thick, with support that withstood multiple dives.

I recommend buying a smaller size than usual for these suits if you’re petite, as I found the straps tended to slip off my shoulders.

How is Batoko supporting ocean conservation?

• Recycling the equivalent weight of 300,000 plastic bottles into swimwear so far
• Workplace powered by renewable energy
• Vegan supply chain
• Donating a proportion of their annual profits to the Marine Conservation Society UK
• Participating in reforestation projects to offset their carbon
• Plastic-free packaging and eco-conscious swimwear printing processes

Shapes in the Sand

Born from a desire to help restore the environment and represent the diversity of women, Shapes in the Sand produces a broad range of sustainable on-trend swimwear for all.

Products tested

• Mystic Wrap Over crop
• Mystic mid-rise V-Pant
• Mystic cropped rash guard

What makes Shapes in the Sand swimwear great for divers?

• Broad range of mix-and-match swimwear separates are ideal for dive holidays
• Variety of coverage and support options for all body shapes
• Seasonal collections support ocean conservationists
• Made of EVO, which dries 50 percent faster than standard polyamide
• Thermal-isolation fabric protects you from temperature variations

What are the products made from?

• ECONYL yarn
• EVO, a yarn made from castor bean oil

Sun protection and degradation resistance

• UPF 50+
• Chlorine resistant

How did the products perform?

The patterned fabric and embellishments on the ties made Shapes in the Sand fashionable and yet functional when diving.

The black Mystic cropped rash guard is an eye-catching change from standard length rash guards and offered plenty of warmth despite being cropped. The rash guard looked great with the bikini bottoms and didn’t ride up at all

Despite being a wrap-over design with a low-cut front, the Mystic crop provided plenty of support and kept everything in place in the water. If you have a large bust, try a different style, however, as the cup size is relatively small.

Ties at the back of the bikini top made it easy to dry on a rail when liveaboard diving.

How is Shapes in the Sand supporting ocean conservation?

• Using EVO, which is a totally renewable resource that requires little water and has no food-chain impacts
• Local printing method does not use water or any harsh chemicals
• Fabric remnants become accessories such as head wraps
• Packaging and labels are recycled and sustainably sourced, down to the swimwear tags and care labels
• Partnering with ocean conservation initiatives

Kathryn Curzon, a shark conservationist and dive travel writer wrote this article. Follow her adventures at www.kathryncurzon.com

 All images courtesy of the author unless otherwise noted.

The post Seven Sustainable Swimwear Brands for Divers appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.

Ask any number of recreational divers about what keeps them from venturing into tech diving, and the equipment investment — as well as training — crops up frequently as a reason to postpone or decide against tech diving. One way to keep the gear investment manageable is by buying used equipment. While it’s certainly a valid strategy — in the interest of full disclosure, I have bought a substantial amount of used gear — there are a few pitfalls to avoid if you’re truly hoping to get a bargain.

The availability of used gear

The good news is that there’s plenty of excellent used gear out there. Quality gear manufacturers make stuff that lasts, sometimes longer than the owner’s interest in diving. Regulators, for example, can last for well over 10 years if you look after them properly. Apart from a waning interest in diving, lifestyle changes are often the impetus for a diver selling her gear.

Tech diving takes time and commitment to do safely and, rather than leaving their gear to gather dust at the back of the garage, many divers decide to sell it while it’s still holding value. What’s more, divers’ interests within diving change. Someone moving from open-circuit to CCR or back may be a good source for used gear.

What to look for

As a potential buyer, it’s worth asking why the equipment is for sale. Any mention of problems or malfunction should raise a red flag. Next, ask whether you can take a look at the equipment or even try it out before buying. Pictures are great, but it’s quite easy to hide flaws or disguise the amount of wear equipment has had.

Trying equipment out will help you see whether it suits you and your diving style. This may not always be possible but, for example, when buying a used regulator, even connecting it to a cylinder and test-breathing it is better than nothing.

Assuming everything is working, check the equipment’s service history. Has it received professional service on a regular basis? Are there records of these services? If you know the seller personally, you may already have a good idea of the answer to these questions. If you’re buying from a stranger, set aside a budget for servicing your new purchase or having it checked over by your local dive shop. Although most dive shops count on new-gear sales, many also have a thriving repair department and are very happy to examine used gear for their customers for a reasonable amount.

Speaking of money, understand what’s a bargain and what isn’t. It’s easy to check prices for new gear online to see whether what you are buying secondhand is really worth it.

Further issues for buying used technical gear

Much of this information applies to both recreational and technical diving. Technical divers, however, should consider a few more issues.

Technical diving generally puts more strain on gear, so it is especially important that any used gear is still serviceable and up to the job. Going back to regulators — ask yourself what you will use them for. If they are your back-gas regulators, the ones generally taken to depth, they must be high-performance, over-balanced regulators. If you’re going to use them as decompression regulators, they may not need to be balanced, but they must be oxygen-clean. A well-worn regulator may not be able to fulfil the criteria for those tasks. In any case, you must get the regulator serviced to that standard unless you are already buying another tech diver’s deco reg.

One of the major pieces of tech equipment you’ll find secondhand are rebreathers, so much so that there are social media sites dedicated to buying and selling them. Why? One of the main causes is the commitment mentioned earlier. Skilled rebreather diving cannot take place once a year for a week — there are simply too many skills to keep fresh and to remember. Consequently, some rebreather divers find that they simply can’t dive enough to justify keeping this piece of equipment.

On the other hand, their used rebreathers are often newly qualified CCR divers’ first units. Again, rebreathers are built to last, so bearing in mind all of the tips mentioned above, they can last a diver for years.

Last but not least, let’s examine who is the best person to buy from. Undoubtedly, the answer is someone you know and have dived with, which gives you a bit of extra knowledge about the equipment you’re looking at. Most dive clubs have at least one early adopter — the person who buys new gear almost as soon as it hits the market. Regularly, these early purchases are followed by buyer’s remorse or the realization that this wasn’t the ideal piece of equipment after all. Quite often, the person will subsequently offer the gear for sale to fellow club members. Buying used equipment for tech diving — or recreational diving — is often a good investment, as long as you do your research and choose wisely.

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