Queensland

Ribbon Reefs and the Coral Sea

There’s never been a better time to dive the pristine, rarely-visited dive sites of the Ribbon Reefs and the Coral Sea — you’ll be sharing them with a very small group of divers. Both Mike Ball Dive Expeditions and Spirit of Freedom dive liveaboards have three-, four- and seven-day itineraries departing every week to the Ribbon Reefs, Coral Sea, Osprey Reef (Shark City), as well as Holmes and Bougainville Reefs.

Each year there are also a number of exploratory expeditions, visiting Horne Island and the far northern reaches of the Great Barrier Reef, and diving the incredible Yongala wreck — but these trips book out months (sometimes years) in advance so you need to plan ahead.

Cairns Outer Reef by liveaboard

Pro Dive Cairns and Divers Den run flexible itineraries to the Outer Reef each week. Choose from one-, two-, three- and four-night trips diving a variety of reefs including Saxon, Norman and Hastings Reefs. The trips include four to five dives per day, including exciting night dives with reef sharks. You will encounter a wide diversity of marine life including giant clams, turtles, stingrays, reef sharks, an incredible variety of tropical fish, spectacular coral formations and consistent underwater visibility.

Minke Whale Magic

During June and July each year, dwarf minke whales visit the northern Ribbon Reefs to breed and now Mike Ball, Spirit of Freedom, Divers Den and Pro Dive all offer three- to four-day liveaboard trips for an in-water encounter with these friendly and inquisitive cetaceans. This a passive encounter, in which 26-foot (8 m) baleen whales approach snorkelers, for a truly magical experience. This is the only place in the world you can experience an encounter like this.

Townsville and Magnetic Island

In recent years the stunning central Great Barrier Reef has played second fiddle to the reefs out from Cairns and Port Douglas, but there are two great reasons to rediscover beautiful reefs such as John Brewer and Lodestone: the 100-year-old wreck of the Yongala and world-famous sculptor Jason deCaire’s underwater installation; the Museum of Underwater Art (MOUA). Dive it by liveaboard with Adrenalin Dive, based in Ayr with Yongala Dive, or base yourself on beautiful Magnetic Island.

Heron Island

Heron Island is in the Southern Great Barrier Reef, and you reach it via helicopter or ferry from Gladstone, Queensland. Heron Island is most famous for its spectacular coral reef and as a sanctuary for a wide variety of marine life. Accommodation ranges from rooms set among a leafy forest, to beachside rooms with immediate access to crystal-clear waters teeming with nesting turtles, reef fish, turtles, rays, reef sharks, and more. The 20 nearby dive sites are easily accessible by boat within minutes of the jetty.

Lady Elliot Island

Lady Elliot Island is one of those rare gems that exist through the serendipitous combination of location and human intervention. Location is important as the island is just 6 miles (10 km) from the edge of the continental shelf and the East Australian Current. This translates to frequent pelagic action such as manta rays, migrating whales and nesting grounds for green and loggerhead turtles. And human intervention? Lady Elliot Island sits within the Green (no take) Zone of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park, which is why the corals are in perfect condition and over 1,000 marine species can be found in the waters around the island.

New South Wales 

Lord Howe Island

Imagine you had to design the perfect place for an adventurous scuba diver to escape to for a week’s diving vacation. You’d probably go for an island, maybe where tropical, sub-tropical and temperate ocean currents converge, a nice long reef around a lagoon, so you could dive and snorkel inside the lagoon, and explore more adventurous stuff outside in the gullies and arches. Then you’d probably give the island some sharp drop-offs, and maybe add a few small islands around to create a variety of dive sites. You could not design a more magnificent setting if you tried. The island has limited capacity, so is booked up quickly (especially now) with many divers returning annually

Plus! Ever thought of becoming a PADI certified Exploratory Diver? Lord Howe Island is the only place you can do this.

Julian Rocks

Among the regular species found year-round at Julian Rocks, a 10-15 minute boat ride from Byron Bay, are wobbegong sharks, eagle rays, cuttlefish, king fish, trevally, mulloway, and three different species of sea turtle: loggerhead, green, and hawksbill. There is an abundance of hard and soft coral as well. You can also see manta rays, gray nurse sharks, and leopard (also called zebra) sharks at various times throughout the year.

Nelson Bay

Whether you’re interested in the big stuff or teeny, tiny macro delights, you’ll find them here in Nelson Bay, Port Stephens, which has long been a popular NSW seaside retreat. Some locals will tell you that if you haven’t dived North Rock or Looking Glass (think large schools of gray nurse sharks), you don’t deserve to call yourself a real diver. Others opt for Fly Point or Pipeline, which feature nudibranchs, seahorses, and all sorts of macro wonders.

Jervis Bay

Weedies, whales and the world’s whitest sand—Jervis Bay is three hours’ drive south of Sydney, and it’s already Insta-famous for having the world’s whitest sand at Hyams Beach. And the underwater world in the bay itself is pretty special as well. With over 60 dive sites, divers can expect to see weedy sea dragons, wobbegongs, gray nurse sharks, Port Jackson sharks, beautiful sponge gardens and potentially humpback whales, depending on the season.

Coffs Harbour

Coffs Harbour diving opportunities include the marine reserves of the Solitary Islands; South Solitary Island in particular. There, among boulders, walls and gutters, you will see anything from mantas to handfish, and everything in between. At nearby Split Solitary, among coral and kelp, you will see many species of resident fish, as well as eels, turtles and gray nurse sharks. In season (May to September) you can also swim with migrating humpback whales.

Western Australia

Whale Sharks and Whales at Ningaloo Reef

Swim with whale sharks and humpback whales and dive Ningaloo Reef with Exmouth Dive & Whalesharks. The Coral Coast’s Ningaloo Reef is a pristine aquatic wonderland that is home to an abundance of marine life, including dolphins, manta rays, turtles, humpback whales and, of course, the whale sharks. Exmouth Dive & Whalesharks are whale shark tour pioneers, with the experience, knowledge and reputation that will ensure that your day will be unforgettable.

Exmouth Navy Pier

Also based at Exmouth, Dive Ningaloo is the only dive center with access to world-famous dive site Exmouth Navy Pier, voted as one of the top 10 dive sites in Australia and one of the top shore dives in the world. 

Rowley Shoals

The Rowley Shoals are a chain of three spectacular, pristine coral atolls that rise up from the ocean floor 1,300 feet (400 m) below on the very edge of Australia’s continental shelf, creating one of the most remote dive locations in Australia. Diving Rowley Shoals is seasonal, with trips only available around October each year. Dive among the giant clams, shellfish, giant potato cod and Maori wrasse. Trevally, mackerel, and tuna hover in large schools around you, and you can discover over 200 species of coral and over 650 species of fish. Visibility in excess of 200 feet (60 m) is common.

Christmas Island

Dive Christmas Island, Australia’s own Galapagos in the Indian Ocean, with pristine coral reefs and plenty of pelagic action, including schools of silky sharks, mantas, eagle rays and whale sharks. Being so remote, you’ll be diving with small groups, with reefs, forests of enormous gorgonian fans, and plenty of sea caverns to explore. Plus, during surface intervals, swim with spinner dolphins.

Cocos Keeling Island

Dive Cocos Keeling Island—a little jewel in the Indian Ocean, with pristine coral reefs and mantas, eagle rays, schooling reef sharks, pods of dolphins, a resident friendly dugong called Kat — and (officially) Australia’s most beautiful beach at Direction Island — is also home to one of the world’s best drift snorkels.

South Australia

Neptune Islands

To see a great white shark in the wild is absolutely grand and rare, but to come face to face with one underwater is one of the most exciting experiences available to divers today. Come and ‘hunt with cameras’ the world’s best-known and most-feared shark with the world’s best: Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions. On a four-day liveaboard trip you will also encounter New Zealand fur seals and an abundance of bird life, dolphins and other unique fish and wildlife.

Fleurieu Peninsula

The beautiful Fleurieu Peninsula is home to one of the world’s most unique species of marine life, the leafy seadragon. These stunning creatures are found nowhere else in the world except the Great Southern Reef of Australia.

Whyalla

Each winter, tens of thousands of Australian giant cuttlefish gather to mate and spawn. This mass event happens nowhere else in the world. These cuttlefish are endemic to South Australia and have a very short life cycle of two years, which means the need to mate in such large numbers to ensure the success of generations to come. 

Kangaroo Island

Kangaroo Island is a nature lover’s dream. With large, resident pods of bottlenose dolphins, it is the ideal location to immerse yourself with these playful mammals. Shore diving at Kingscote Jetty will also reveal a wide array of macro wonders, from blennies and angler fish to the odd leafy sea dragon. 

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As a dive destination, Indonesia needs no introduction. An archipelago made up of over 17,000 islands, the country boasts dive spots that regularly top ‘must-see’ lists, including Raja Ampat and Komodo. Due to challenging conditions, these are suitable to deeper and longer dives.

Reason 1: A growing community offering high quality training

Competent technical divers learn from highly qualified and experienced instructors. Over the past few years, the tech diving community on islands like Bali and the Gilis near Lombok has grown and both areas have become the home base for technical dive shops, as well as instructors and instructor trainers offering a wide range of courses from different agencies.

While technical diving is not (yet?) the norm, it’s becoming more widespread and it’s becoming more common to see someone gear up in sidemount gear or pre-breathe a CCR. This is partly due to dive professionals discovering another kind of diving for themselves and spreading their enthusiasm to visiting divers. More demand has led to more supply, and so the community continues to grow.

Reason 2: Exciting dive sites to keep you coming back

Developing skills as a technical diver means more than completing one level of training after another. Building experience between courses by planning and leading dives with other tech divers or a competent technical diving guide is just as important. Arguably, these dives are more enjoyable when there is something to see. In Indonesia, the islands of the Bunaken Marine Park in North Sulawesi offer deep, sheer walls that drop for several hundred feet in places. Bali and the Gili islands have steep slopes, pinnacle and wall dives that also often exceed the 325-foot (100 m) mark.

The beauty of many of those sites is that they make for a great dive, no matter whether you are heading to 130 feet (40 m) or pushing your limits on deeper dives. The marine life will change with every 30 feet (10 m) of depth, with increasing depth usually also increasing your chances to encounter larger, pelagic species.

Reason 3: Accessible dive sites and short travel times

Indonesia offers both extremely remote diving and relatively easily accessible dive sites. The more remote the location, the more you must be prepared to handle a full-on diving expedition. More on this below, under Reason 5.

On the other hand, you can access depth directly from the shore in other places. Northeast Bali, for example, has drop-offs and sloping walls that start directly from the beach. In some cases, you can conduct technical dives here directly from the shore. It’s easier to do deeper dives with boat support, allowing for a safety diver and drop tank. Bunaken Marine Park relies on boat diving with very few exceptions as currents tend to push divers along its steep walls. Again, however, mind-blowing deep walls with overhangs, ledges, and big marine life are accessible within minutes of resorts.

Another advantage of this topography is divers can often conduct decompression stops on the reef, giving them something to see and pass the time, especially during longer stops.

Obtaining gases and bringing tech equipment requires a degree of planning. Established dive centers will be able to supply oxygen-rich mixes on demand. Depending on where in Indonesia you go, helium may require a bit of advance warning, so it’s a good idea to plan ahead, but, as a technical diver, that should be par for the course.

Standard equipment is widely available but pricey due to import taxes. Specialized equipment, including rebreather diving consumables, may be available in the part of Indonesia you are visiting — again, it’s worth checking with the dive operator you are using. If you are planning major equipment purchases, check prices at home and at your destination to see which option works out better.

Reason 4: Combining technical with recreational diving

With depth being easily accessible often directly from the shore, tech divers traveling with recreational divers may be able to dive with the same operator. Several operators are set up to accommodate both, albeit diving from different day boats or on different trips. This is a good way to accommodate recreational-only friends and family until you can convince them to join the dark side.

Reason 5: Exploration

What tech diver doesn’t dream of discovering dive sites no one has seen before? In Indonesia especially, so much of our ocean remain unexplored, that there is a real chance of being on the frontier of tech diving.

South Sulawesi, for example, recently opened Indonesia’s first cave-diving facility. In North Sulawesi, the search continues for the elusive coelacanth. And even in a place as well-traveled as Bali, only a few divers see the depths of the ocean, and a recent project by Unseen Expeditions is exploring species in depths around 325 feet (100 m). At the same time, divers are still discovering deep reefs around Lombok, including deep cleaning stations.

With more than 17,000 islands, much remains to be explored in Indonesia. In any case, it pays to research your tech diving shop ahead of your trip and check on specific requirements. As a rule of thumb, the more remote your destination, the more the journey there will become part of your tech diving adventure.

The post Five Reasons Indonesia is (Becoming) a Top Tech Diving Destination appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.

Boat Sweet Boat

“We want you to feel at home on this trip, so please treat this like your mother’s sofa.” I’m sitting on one of three large, comfy sectionals in the lounge with dive guide Amr Ibrahim of the MV Grand Sea Explorer on my first day. After an unplanned arrival at 4:30 am that same morning thanks to severely delayed flights, I’ve slept through the boat briefing and check-out dive, and am now receiving a personalized introduction to the boat and dive procedures. Everything onboard the luxurious, 142-foot (43 m) ship is much as on other liveaboards—our general itinerary will be “dive, eat, sleep.”

There’s a bar and open-air gathering area on the second deck where we’ll spend lots of time discussing the day’s dives, and a fly deck above that, where those who’ve come looking for a tan can sunbathe. Divers will choose a station on the spacious dive deck and remain in the same spot all week, with several eager deckhands ready to assist at every turn. Each day, save the last, will feature three dives, and on this, the B-D-E itinerary, we’ll visit the big three: the Brothers, Daedalus, and Elphinstone reefs, beginning with Big Brother the next day.

As the morning wears on, I meet the rest of the guests. Though the boat can hold up to 28 divers, there are 20 onboard this week, hailing from nearly as many countries—Germany, the U.K., Finland, Switzerland, South Africa, Australia, and more, though I’m the only American. My South African dive buddy, Bruce, and I gear up for his second, my first, dive of the trip at Gotta Abu Ramada (the Aquarium) to check gear and buoyancy. Though uneventful (i.e., no longies), the lovely site lives up to its name and we spot tons of huge moray eels, lionfish, trevallies, clownfish, and a blue-spotted ray.

After the check-out dives, all dives will follow roughly the same procedure. Divers are split into groups A and B, each numbering 10. Amr and the other dive guide, Ahmed Fouad, will take turns guiding each group, with most of the diving done via RIBs, though we will jump off the back of the boat on several occasions. All three sites we’re visiting are famous for current, so the guide will back-roll into the water first, check which way it’s flowing, and signal the all-clear. On a countdown of three, we’ll all back-roll into the water too, conducting negative entries each time.

But first—dinner, which does not disappoint. As I make a return trip to the abundant buffet, my dreams of dropping those last few stubborn Covid pounds slip away. With a full tummy, I head downstairs to my cabin, hoping for a solid night’s sleep on the overnight trip to the Brothers, a journey of roughly seven hours, or 70 miles, from port in Hurghada. 

The Brothers

In giddy anticipation, I’ve set my phone alarm for our first dive day at Big Brother, but I needn’t have worried—each day begins the same way. At 6 am sharp, Amr comes downstairs and sing-songs “wakey, wakey, happy divers, good morning,” to roust us out of bed. After a quick cup of coffee, Ahmed delivers the briefing at 6:30, as he will every day, for a 7 am dive. Renowned among divers, the small, barren islands of Big and Little Brother are reachable only by liveaboard, sitting around 40 miles (64 km) from shore. Both narrow, teardrop-shaped islands rise with sheer, vertical walls from the depths with nothing surrounding them but open water.

On Big Brother, a lighthouse has stood watch since 1883 to protect ships from the reef below, manned with four keepers who trade out shifts every 60 days. Unfortunately for the Numidia, which sank in 1901, and the Aida, which sank in 1957, the reef won. After two wall dives, featuring an insistent current, spectacular coral, and teeming fish life, we drop in on the Numidia for dive No. 3, and it’s by far my favorite. This huge British cargo ship was on only its second journey when it hit the reef with no loss of life, not 400 yards from the lighthouse. Now, it’s lying nearly vertical, cemented to the coral starting in around 65 feet (20 m) and extending all the way down to 246 feet (75 m).

Though we don’t penetrate the structure, the visibility is great—at least 80 feet (25 m)—and the metal surfaces are carpeted with soft coral, gleaming in the sunlight. Orange anthias swarm over the entire scene, and we all take turns posing with various parts of the now rainbow-colored metal as backdrop. On our leisurely swim back to the boat we fin over acres of coral inhabited by hunting lionfish and hordes of busy reef fish going about their lives and pass the engine block of the ill-fated Aida in about 25 feet (8 m) of water.

That evening, after another delicious dinner, we’re all in for a treat, as two whale sharks appear off the boat’s port side. They’re making lazy laps between our boat and the one anchored parallel to us about 200 feet (60 m) away, using our lights to hunt the inky ocean waters for dinner. And, as if to taunt us, a longie shows up too, slicing through the water sinuously near the back of the boat. Though we’re hopeful to see them underwater the next day at Little Brother, it’s not meant to be, and after three lovely—but sharkless—dives there, we motor on to our second stop: Daedalus reef.

Daedalus

I don’t always skip a dive, but when I do, it’s the best one of the trip. On our second dive at Daedalus, I’m feeling tired—a bit lazy if I’m honest—and we hadn’t seen much on the first dive. And, just like a newbie who hasn’t yet learned the lesson that the ocean can withhold one minute and deliver spectacularly the next, I skip the dive. And what a dive it turns out to be—at least according to my boat mates. Graced with both a manta ray sighting and school of hammerheads, everyone else is giddy when they get back on the boat. As Ahmed has said each day, “One percent luck is better than 100 percent experience.” Turns out I should have listened.

We’d arrived at Daedalus in the early morning hours, after a 10-hour, overnight boat ride. Sitting smack-dab in the middle of the Red Sea 46 miles (74 km) from shore, it’s another small, uninhabited island save for those manning another lighthouse, built here in 1863 and rebuilt in 1931. Just like the Brothers, it’s only reachable by liveaboard, and features similar underwater topography—sheer, coral-covered walls dropping off to the depths, with a 165-foot-wide (50 m) plateau starting in 80 feet (25 m) of water. This, of course, is the best place to see sharks. Which I don’t. Nonetheless, our third dive is lovely.

The current here, just as at Brothers, typically runs north to south and splits when it hits the wall. We’d planned to drop in on the Red Sea’s biggest anemone city, which clings to the wall on the western side of the island in around 30 feet (10 m), say hi to the Nemos, and turn right, keeping the reef to our left shoulder all the way back to the boat. Instead, after snapping a few pics with the obliging clownfish, our intrepid guide Ahmed turns us left, allowing us to drift with the current nearly all the way up the side of the island to its point.

Though there are plenty of other liveaboards at Daedalus and lots of bubbles in the water, we blissfully see no one on our dive, save for the turtles, napoleon wrasse, tuna, and jacks that swirl in abundance. After dinner, it’s another overnight journey of around seven hours to our final destination: Elphinstone, and our last hope to see longies in the water.

Elphinstone

Running north-south, the cigar-shaped Elphinstone reef is entirely submerged, save for a few breakers at the surface. It sits around five miles offshore, 18 miles (30 km) south of Port Ghalib and 18 miles (30 km) north of Marsa Alam, making it a popular day-boat destination, as well as a liveaboard mainstay. Just as at Brothers and Daedalus, its plunging walls are covered in coral and reef fish, but never mind that—we’re here to see sharks. We’ve got three dives to do it, and the anticipation on the boat is palpable. After Ahmed’s briefing, everyone gears up excitedly and boards the RIBs. We’ll motor up the east side of the island for the first morning’s dive, past all the other boats at mooring, and try to swim out to the plateau to look for sharks.

On the count of three, we back-roll into the water, but the current is not our friend, preventing us from reaching the plateau and instead gently insisting that we drift along the wall back to our boat. After an uneventful 40 minutes or so, we’re nearing the other moored boats and we see a crowd of divers under one in particular. Then Ahmed spots it—a juvenile longimanus, doing figure eights around the group. We hang out in the water for a bit, entranced, as we drift back to our boat. Along the way we spot two more of these unmistakable sharks, with their clear, searching eyes and bright white patches at the tips of their pectoral, dorsal, and caudal fins.

The group surfaces, giddy after seeing the longies, but the best dive is yet to come. Oceanic whitetips often hang out right underneath the boats at Elphinstone, so on our second dive, after a brief foray out to the plateau, we turn and head back to the boat to wait and see who shows up. All 20 divers from our boat are here, and we’ve been told in our longie briefing to stay together as a group in about 20 to 30 feet (6 to 10 m) of water, and to watch all directions—in front of us, behind, left, right, and especially from below. Known for their fearlessness and curiosity, longies often approach divers directly, only veering aside at the last second.

When they materialize out of the blue, we’re all pointing and shouting excitedly into our regulators—though that may just be me. Three separate sharks appear during our dive, each roughly 6 feet (2 m) long. They approach the photographer in our group, bumping off his dome port, perhaps curious about the reflection of themselves they see in the shiny apparatus. In total, we spend 52 minutes with the sharks, as they grow ever nearer and bolder in their examination of us. One comes up beneath me and takes a quick nibble on the weights dangling from a line beneath the boat, and I inch back ever so slightly.

A particularly curious shark takes an interest in one of our divers and, after it comes just a bit too close for comfort, our time with the longimanus is over. As I surface, I’m left with a feeling of both exhilaration and respect for these animals that we were all so anxious to see. In our excitement, it’s easy to forget that these are apex predators. They don’t care how many dives we’ve had, or that we just need to get the right angle for the right shot, or that we’ve traveled across the world to see them. Reverence is due, and that’s what I’m left with as we pull anchor and motor toward the last dive sites of the trip near Hurghada, where we’ll disembark the day after next.

Epilogue

And what a gift our last dives are, at an island aptly named Small Giftun. Two more drift dives are in store, both starting in around 100 feet (30 m) and gradually leveling up into a stunning, sun-dappled coral garden. We drift over an enormous stand of gorgonian fans, and the light’s rays pierce through the healthy fields of hard coral while the soft coral sways in the current. It’s an explosion of life and color, with schooling fusiliers, anthias, moray eels, and a blue-spotted stingray all swimming by to say hi. Though I don’t see a single shark on these two dives, they stand among my favorite of the entire trip. And so maybe I’ll learn my lesson this time—nature often offers treasure where you least expect it. I may have come to Egypt for one thing, but the Red Sea gave so much more.

Make it Happen

The MV Grand Sea Explorer operates in Egypt as M/Y Sea Serpent Grand and conducts both northern and southern itineraries. At 142 feet (43 m) long, the spacious ship can accommodate 22 to 28 divers in 14 state rooms, with two suites, two double cabins, and 10 twin cabins.

There are two itineraries, both departing from Hurghada, though occasionally from Port Ghalib. For ease of arrival—and luckily in case of delayed flights—the boat spends the first night in the marina at Hurghada, departing around 7 am each Friday. The North & Brothers itinerary features greatest hits like the Thistlegorm, Ras Mohamed National Park, the Brothers, and Abu Nuhas. The B-D-E itinerary is just as it’s named, covering the big three: the Brothers, Daedalus, and Elphinstone.

Although the boats operate year-round, September, October, and November make for particularly appealing diving as the air and water are a bit cooler and its prime oceanic season. High season runs from March through May.

Divers on the MV Grand Sea Explorer can expect one guide for every 8 to 10 divers, depending on how many passengers are on board. Nitrox fills are free, so it’s best to be certified far in advance. Because most of the dive sites are conducted on walls with the possibility of strong currents, the Red Sea is best suited to divers with some experience.

All underwater images courtesy of Daniel Gut

M/Y Sea Serpent Grand/MV Grand Sea Explorer images courtesy of Explorer Ventures

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Whale Watching 

After learning all about the baleen and toothed whales in Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary online, you’re excited to get out there and see your first whale. Your parents are just as excited as you—it’s really nice to see them relax and enjoy a vacation. After boarding the whale-watching boat, you try to find the best spot to sit so you can get a good view of the water and also hear the on-board naturalist explain where you are going and which animals you may encounter.

As the day grows longer, you’re getting tired from the sun and a little queasy, but there must be a whale coming soon. You came all the way from Oklahoma for this after all! Just as you start daydreaming while staring off to the horizon, a humpback breaches right in front of you, jumping clear out of the water and landing with a massive splash. “How can an animal be that big?” you think to yourself. Your family walks over to the port side of the boat to get a closer look and you get your camera ready, hoping to capture some of the action.

The whale is at the surface again, this time it looks like it is almost floating on its back with both pectoral fins up in the air—then splash—it slaps one of of its fins on the water. You hear the naturalist explain that this “flippering” behavior may be a way of cooling off, or perhaps a form of whale communication. How cool! You got a great photo of the whale and plan to enter the Get Into Your Sanctuary photo contest. You can’t wait to share this story with your friends!

Diving Monterey Bay

It’s a chilly morning, about 46 F, and you’re already thinking about how great the hot chocolate in your thermos is going to taste when the dive is over. You can’t wait to get your thermal layers and drysuit on so you can stay warm and get in the water. You double-check your dive gear and get your camera ready to explore nearshore kelp forests in Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary. As you seal your camera’s housing, you get a flash of excitement thinking about the last time you dove here and got that unforgettable photo of a Limacia cockerelli nudibranch with those brilliant orange colors. This time, you’re using your wide-angle lens, and are hoping to capture how the sunlight dances through the kelp forest.

After a final buddy check and dive site overview, your friend hands you the dive flag and you head over to the beach to get in. Who knows what will happen—you might just have a relaxing dive through towering sunlit kelp stands with colorful sea stars, or you might encounter a herd of playful sea lions. It’s time to find out!

Exploring Mallows Bay-Potomac River

You have a three-day weekend and are ready to get out of the city for a bit, and decide to head to Mallows Bay-Potomac River National Marine Sanctuary for a camping/kayaking trip with some old college buddies. After logging out of your last meeting on Friday, you rush to grab your hiking pack, fill up your canteen, and call to confirm the campsite and kayak reservations. It’s been a while since you’ve seen your college friends, at least two years since you’ve been camping, and it’s your first time kayaking.

After catching up with friends and recounting all of your old inside jokes, you set up camp at Smallwood State Park and spend the evening roasting marshmallows and telling ghost stories. In the morning, the group heads over to paddle around the Mallows Bay Ghost Fleet. There’s a light mist over the water, but as the sun gets higher in the sky, the mist disappears and it’s a beautiful day. As you get closer to one of the wooden ships, a bald eagle swoops down in front of your kayak and catches a fish with its impressive talons.

Tide pool Treasure at Olympic Coast

You walk down to your local recreation center to meet up with a few neighbors and play shuffleboard. As you pass the pool house in your retirement community, you see a beautiful seashell in the window. Suddenly, it’s as though you can hear the swooshing sound of the ocean and smell the sea air, and it reminds you of the time your mother took you to the beach to explore tide pools when you were a young girl. You feel a rush of excitement, and this feeling sticks with you all day. After closing out the final shuffleboard match, you head home and decide to start making some plans. In two weeks, you’re heading out to Washington to see the tide pools at Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary!

After walking down a sandy beach path onto the rocky coast, you feel the chill of the Pacific Ocean through your water shoes. You look around and see so many colorful critters hiding in between the rocks, and blanketing the pockets in the tide pools where the water sits at low tide. There are sea stars, sea urchins, limpets, and even a few small crabs. While staring out at the unforgettable rocky seascape, you hear a squeal of excitement and high-pitched laugh. You turn around and see a young child also exploring the tide pools, and it reminds you of when you were younger and first came here.

Adventure Awaits

Being adventuresome is all about embracing the unknown, in whichever form that takes. So pack the car or book your tickets, get your kids pumped up (or not), call your friends to start making plans, or keep it to yourself and enjoy a little solitude. No matter how you define a good adventure, there’s something for you in a national marine sanctuary.

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Responsible Wildlife Viewing

If you plan to visit waters within the National Marine Sanctuary system, familiarize yourself with responsible recreation activities available at that location and check out their wildlife viewing guidelines before you head out.

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GUEST POST BY RACHEL PLUNKETT, WRITER/EDITOR FOR NOAA’S OFFICE OF NATIONAL MARINE SANCTUARIES

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Whether you’re a snorkeler, freediver, or scuba dive, everybody loves an ocean encounter with seals—also known as the clowns or puppy dogs of the sea. Luckily, Her are our picks of the top five places to dive with seals and sea lions.

Cape Town, South Africa

Where: Hout Bay

Characteristics: 

Cape Town is home to rocky shorelines, dense kelp forests, and lots of Cape fur seals, living in two protected kelp areas. Duiker Island in Hout Bay is home to a colony of 5,000 Cape fur seals but bring your drysuit— being situated in the Atlantic Ocean, the water temperature can vary between 46 and 50 F (8 to 10 C). Water time can vary from 45 minutes to an hour, but if you need to get out and warm up, the RIB is always nearby to come and pick you up for a bake in the sun. 

Season: The season to dive with seals in South Africa lasts year-round, but the best months fall from September through May.

An extra tip: When the weather conditions are not favorable to dive in Hout Bay it will be favorable to dive in False Bay and vice versa.

New Zealand

Where: Kaikoura 

Characteristics: 

Three hours north of Christchurch is the Kaikoura Peninsula, surrounded by the Kaikoura Range, making for a surreal scene where you can lounge on the beach with snowcapped mountains in the background. This spot is the world’s best for in-water encounters with curious New Zealand fur seals. After a briefing by experienced guides, you will get your gear and jump on a bus, which will take you to the boat. From there, it’s a 10-minute boat ride out to the seals. Spend time with the seals in the water, then watch them lounging and baking on the rocks afterward. Hop in the water and observe the playful seals, then watch them lounge and bake on the rocks. Tours can run up to 2.5 hours.

Season: October through May

California

Where: Monterey

Characteristics:

Sea lions and their smaller, spotted cousins, Pacific harbor seals, are known to play, splash and lounge on the rocks along Breakwater Cove Marina. This spot is particularly suited to scuba, rather than snorkel. Not only does this bay draw sea lions and seals but also the famous—and adorable—sea otters. As a diver, you will do a shore entry and you’ll want to wear at least 7 mm of neoprene or a drysuit as the water temperature can be as cold as 50 F (10 C).

Season: Late May for seals and summer for sea lions

United Kingdom

Where: Farne Islands

Characteristics: 

In the temperate waters of northeast England, you will find the Farne Islands, where boats run charters for divers and snorkelers to interact with the inquisitive gray seals. With a notion to nibble on your fins, these guys will play for hours. Just as you think you may be able to stay a bit longer, the icy 46 F (8 C) water temperature will remind you that it’s time to head back to the boat and warm up with a cozy cup of tea. A 7mm wetsuit or thicker would come highly recommended, but a dry suit will come in even handier.

Season: Late September – October

Canada

Where: Hornby Island

Characteristics:

While seals and sea lions have agility and speed to their advantage, many divers say that the playful and friendly Steller sea lions take the cake on Hornby Island. The average water temperature is 11 C, so a wetsuit with a minimum of 7 mm is necessary for both snorkelers and scuba divers though—again— you’ll be more comfortable in a drysuit for an encounter with these playful animals.

Season: December through March

STORY BY MONIQUE SCHOUTEN

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Cozumel

Cozumel is the largest island in the Mexican Caribbean and a world-famous dive destination with coral reefs full of life. With dive sites suitable for novices to experienced divers, it’s the perfect destination to get back in the water post-pandemic.

Covid entry requirements

• There are no Covid entry requirements for people traveling to Mexico.
• Most resorts ask guests to fill out a health questionnaire.

What makes Cozumel great for getting back into diving?

Cozumel offers stunning diving in clear, turquoise waters that are warm all year. There are a multitude of dive sites just off the coast, with abundant reefs and a variety of dive types available.

What to expect when you get there

Cozumel is very quiet at the moment and has numerous topside highlights to explore on your non-diving days. There are traditional towns, historic ruins, and theme parks for families, plus white-sand beaches, beach bars, and restaurants.

Diving in Cozumel

Boasting the second-largest reef system in the world, Cozumel has exceptional coral reef diving and an astonishing diversity of marine life, including numerous sea turtles and vibrant reef fish.

Cozumel’s top dive sites for beginners include Columbia Reef and Chankanaab Reef, both of which have beautiful, sunlit corals in clear, shallow waters with gentle currents. More experienced divers will enjoy Cozumel’s thrilling drift dives, including at Punta Tunich, and the huge 100-foot-high (30 m) wall and coral pillars at Colombia Wall.

Bonaire

If you love exploring at your own pace and self-guided diving, Bonaire is for you. This relaxed, slow-paced island lacks large chain hotels and has dozens of well-preserved local dive sites just a few steps offshore.

Covid entry requirements

• There are no Covid entry requirements for people traveling to Bonaire. 

What makes Bonaire great for getting back into diving?

Bonaire is the shore-diving capital of the world and offers easy, accessible reef diving that provides a gentle reintroduction to the underwater world. With an arid climate and little rainfall, diving in Bonaire is excellent all year and the waters are extremely clear.

What to expect when you get there

Bonaire is a small island, but it has plenty of wild spaces, including a vast desert landscape, so it rarely feels crowded. That said, Bonaire’s restaurants can get busy, so book in advance.

There are plenty of adventure sports available, including caving, sea kayaking, hiking, windsurfing, and mountain biking, plus 22 gorgeous beaches.

Diving in Bonaire

Bonaire is all about reef and wreck shore diving, so rent a car and explore the dozens of dive sites at your feet. Salt Pier is an easy shore dive with pillars covered in soft and hard corals. Bari Reef is an excellent night dive for macro fans, and Karpata is a good place to spot pelagics in the blue. The famous Hilma Hooker wreck is one of Bonaire’s most popular dives, and you can explore this impressive wreck as a self-guided dive from shore.

Belize

With over 400 islands and 240 miles of Caribbean coastline, Belize is an incredible dive destination. It is home to some of the world’s best dive sites and the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Belize Barrier Reef. What more could you need to get back into diving?

Covid entry requirements

• There are no Covid entry requirements for people traveling to Belize.
• Purchasing Belize Travel Insurance is no longer mandatory but it is highly recommended by the Belize Tourism Board.

What makes Belize great for getting back into diving

Belize hosts a diverse array of reefs that provide idyllic reef diving for novices right through to experienced divers. Belize’s waters are warm all year and you can enjoy a mixture of land-based and liveaboard diving there.

What to expect when you get there

Belize is popular with U.S. visitors, so book ahead during public and school holidays. Once there, you can go jungle walking and bird watching, explore Mayan ruins, and enjoy Belize’s mouth-watering cuisine. And if that’s too much effort, just relax on Belize’s golden and white-sand beaches.

Diving in Belize

The Belize Barrier Reef is one of the most biodiverse ecosystems in the world, boasting three turtle species, hundreds of reef fish species, pelagic fish, whale sharks, and hundreds of corals and sponges.

Ambergris Caye has over 40 accessible dive sites dotted along its shores, and it is a good place to base yourself to explore Belize’s other top dive highlights: the Great Blue Hole, Lighthouse Reef, and Hol Chan Marine Reserve.

Turneffe Atoll is another top place to enjoy all that Belize scuba diving has to offer. This atoll has over 200 cayes, with diverse underwater landscapes, including huge walls covered in corals. There are ripping currents for experienced divers, shallow aquarium-like dive sites, and plenty of pelagic action.

Florida Keys 

If you are looking for somewhere closer to home, try the Florida Keys. It’s a wreck diving mecca, with plenty of coral reefs as well. And if you live nearby, you can get your diving fix over the weekend.

Covid entry requirements

• There are no Covid entry requirements for people traveling to the Florida Keys.

What makes the Florida Keys great for getting back into diving?

As well as being accessible, with no need to go overseas, the Florida Keys have consistently warm waters, plenty of sunshine, and varied diving that offers something for all divers.

What to expect when you get there

 This is a popular U.S. vacation spot, so be sure to book ahead. Once there, you can enjoy plenty of topside highlights, including gorgeous beaches, charter fishing, art galleries, museums, spas, and a fine-dining scene.

 Diving in the Florida Keys

The Florida Keys has the only living coral barrier reef in the continental United States and is also home to the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. There are endless reefs, seagrass fields, sandbars, islands, and extensive mangroves to explore, with over 6,000 marine species, including manatees.

Added to that, the Florida Keys has epic wreck diving. There is a shipwreck trail with nine historic wrecks, and an estimated 1,000 shipwrecks in total. If you love rust, diving in Florida is hard to beat.

The Bahamas

The Bahamas is one of the easiest destinations to access from the U.S., being just a short flight away. Famed for its shark diving, it ticks the boxes for shark fans who want a world-class dive trip without traveling far.

Covid entry requirements

• Vaccinated travelers must provide proof of vaccination.
• Unvaccinated travelers (aged 2 and older) need to show proof of a negative PCR or rapid antigen test taken no more than 72 hours prior to travel.

What makes the Bahamas great for getting back into diving?

Warm weather, a multitude of islands, and water that rarely drops below 80 F (27 C) is enough to tempt anyone to visit the Bahamas. Below the surface, there are colorful reefs and crystal-clear waters that host an abundance of sharks.

What to expect when you get there

Unsurprisingly, the Bahamas continues to be one of the most popular destinations for Americans. These stunning islands have an endless list of topside activities that cater for just about every interest, making it perfect for families and group trips.

Diving in the Bahamas

The Bahamas has been a designated shark sanctuary since 2011 and has exceptional shark diving. Visit Tiger Beach to dive with numerous tiger sharks in warm, shallow waters, then hop over to Bimini for diving with great hammerheads. Alternatively, Cat Island offers swimming with oceanic whitetips.

If shark diving isn’t your thing, try the Exuma Cays and Eleuthera. There, you can dive the famous Austin Smith wreck, experience a unique current dive called the Washing Machine, and drift over beautiful reefs all day long.

Kathryn Curzon, a shark conservationist and dive travel writer for SSI (Scuba Schools International), wrote this article.

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How to get there

Five of the islands in the Lofoten area are connected by the E10 National Scenic Route and multiple bridges, which in turn connects with Norway’s main north-south highway (the E6). Alternatively, you can take a ferry from Bodø on the mainland, or combine the two and drive part of the way and use the ferry part way. Alternatively, you can take a small airplane out to the islands. This is the fastest way to get there, but also the most expensive.

What to see on land

Norway has some spectacular beaches — ready to compete against any tropical destination. White beaches meet turquoise water while surfers frolic in the chilly waves and backpackers camp on the beach.

Lofoten offer numerous spectacular hikes, some of which end up on stunning, secluded beaches accessible only by foot.

Finally, because it’s so remote there is very little artificial light, making Lofoten the perfect place to view the Northern Lights when the cloud cover isn’t too dense.

What to see underwater

There are a variety of interesting dives in the area. Perhaps one of the most unusual dives is through the kelp forests at the Grand Canyon. Two large, vertical rock faces, covered in dead men’s fingers, create a colorful passage to the bottom of the canyon where large kelp creates a forest.

There are a few wrecks around Lofoten. Hadsel is a passenger liner that sank near Reine in 1958. At 130 feet (40 meters) at the bottom, Hadsel is one of the area’s deeper wrecks. Just off Ballstad is an Icelandic trawler that sank in 2002. The MV Gudrun Gisladottir lies at a depth of between 88 and 130 feet 27 to 40 m). Other wrecks include the SS Ramø, the SS Hamburg, the MR-25 (a German minesweeper), the MV Karlshorst and the MV Siw-Aina in Svolvær. The MV Siw-Aina is the shallowest of the lot and the easiest to dive.

The waters around Lofoten are also home to minke whales, pilot whales, seals and orcas (during autumn and winter months), so keep your eyes peeled for visitors on your dives.

Seasonality

The weather around Lofoten is quite mild due to the North Atlantic Current, the Norwegian Current and the Gulf Stream. The area rarely sees temperatures below freezing (even in winter) while the average temperature in summer is around 61 F (16 C).

While rain is possible year-round, the wettest months fall between September and November. Water temperatures in the area range from 39 F (4 C) in December to between 50 and 55 F (10 to 13 C) during the summer.

Spectacular diving in clear water along colorful walls, in and around wrecks and through kelp forests is all part of what you can expect while diving in Lofoten Norway. All of this, without a large crowd of tourists and the chance to see the Northern Lights — what more could a diver ask for?

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What is blackwater diving?

Most marine creatures begin life in the open ocean and live a pelagic existence before they can fend for themselves and settle down on the reef. Every night, attracted by the moonlight, they rise from the depths to feed in shallower water. Blackwater diving allows us to observe these unique species during night dives that utilize powerful artificial lights, tethered to dedicated mooring lines hanging above very deep waters, with the goal of attracting sea life that’s traveling up the water column to feed.

What will you see?

Planktonic and juvenile sea species appear most frequently during these special dives and will often be in your sphere of light before you notice their presence—think jellyfish, myriads of squid, tiny octopus, wiggly worms, and iridescent salps. You can sometimes see larger pelagic fish on blackwater dives, but most invertebrates, plankton, and fish that you’ll see are much smaller. In their immature stage, the best subjects showcase large eyes, unique appendages, and iridescent hues mimicking dangerous jellyfish to survive the largest animal migration on the planet.

Blackwater photography

While first-time blackwater divers may initially struggle to identify species, underwater photographers have the added benefit of being able to review photographs after the dive, making comparisons between they captured on film versus established developmental and growth patterns of local species. Blackwater photographers may even end up exchanging information with marine scientists who are eager for more information about these rare sightings. If you are not a photographer, however, there is still so much to see and experience. Divers who enjoy macro or muck diving, with practiced buoyancy and breathing skills, will also find this search for these elusive “baby sea monsters” undeniably alluring.

Blackwater diving in Thailand

Hawaii, Florida, and the Philippines have been the hotspots for this developing dive style, but Thailand has recently become a very promising destination for blackwater diving enthusiasts. 

Blackwater diving in Thailand first started in Koh Tao a few years ago with Dive4photo’s underwater photography school led by Alex Tyrrell, who had just come back from the Philippines. A second “blackwater diving line” was launched near Pattaya, in the Gulf of Thailand by divers from Bangkok, eager to discover this new way of night diving.

The Similan Islands are a well-known diving destination for macro and pelagic life, but we discovered last season that it also offers spectacular blackwater diving. All the photos from this article were taken in Thailand by Franck Fogarolo, the cruise director onboard The Smiling Seahorse, a liveaboard particularly geared towards underwater photographers. On our first blackwater dives, we encountered a juvenile tripod fish, a deep-sea species we had not seen in the last 10 years of diving local reefs, as well as a juvenile sailfish. This season alone, we spotted dozens of paper nautilus, both males and females, who put on quite a show for our camera.

We have also seen juvenile stages of more common Andaman Sea fish, including gastropods, cephalopods, and crustaceans—some smaller than your fingernail.

The Smiling Seahorse is the first liveaboard in Thailand offering blackwater dives on every cruise to explore the larval and juvenile “little monsters” of the Andaman Sea as well as dedicated blackwater diving cruises with daily blackwater dives.

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Divers can see marine mammals during shore dives, boat dives, and even pelagic snorkeling adventures far offshore, depending on which species they are looking to find. Divers face varying opportunities depending on skill level, but it’s common to see most of these mammals without even setting foot in the ocean. In all cases, remember to read local interaction and conservation guidelines before approaching any marine mammal, always giving them ample space to feel comfortable.

Below you will find a list of the marine mammals you are most likely to find off the Southern California coast, along with a brief introduction to the species and some interesting facts that will help you along your way.

Southern California Marine Mammals

Pacific Harbor Seal (Phoca Vitulina)

• Harbor seals have spotted coats ranging from brown to silvery white and can weigh over 350 pounds. (158 kg) when fully grown.
• Unlike sea lions, seals do not have ear flaps and their rear flippers are short. Seals move on land by flopping on their bellies instead of walking on flippers, like sea lions.
• Harbor seals can dive to depths up to 1,500 feet (457 m) and remain submerged for up to 40 minutes at a time, although most dives are shorter, around five to seven minutes.

California Sea Lion (Zalophus Californianus)

• Typically brown in color, California sea lions have long flippers, allowing them to be very agile on land and adept climbers.
• These animals are very social and communicate through loud and often incessant barking.
• Adult male sea lions, or bulls, have a large, protruding bump on top of their head and can often weigh over 700 pounds (317 kg). Maintain a safe distance from large bulls, especially during mating and pupping seasons, as they can be protective of their colony.

Humpback Whale (Megaptera Novaeangliae)

• Adult humpbacks can vary between 40 to 50 feet (12 to 15 m) in length and are characterized by their black skin and unusually long pectoral flippers.
• These animals migrate over 8,000 miles (12,874 km)in a year, back and forth from their winter mating grounds. Some individuals travel along the California coast during this migration.
• The are often seen offshore displaying impressive acrobatics and breaches, such as the one pictured here.

Gray Whale (Eschrichtius robustus)

• Gray whales are easily identified by their immense size and grayish white mottled skin, which is attributed to crustaceans living on the skin of the whale.
• This whale will migrate over 10,000 miles (16,093 km) annually, one of the longest migrations of any mammal on this planet.
• They will travel very close to shore and are sometimes spotted by divers in Southern California kelp beds.

Blue Whale (Balaenoptera musculus)

• This is the largest mammal to have ever lived on Earth, reaching up to 100 feet (30 m) in length and weighing over 150 tons.
• Blue whales have a very streamlined body that is grayish-blue in color. Its broad, triangular tail can also be used for identification as the whale descends below the surface.
• Occasionally found off the California coast feeding on large aggregations of krill, these marine mammals can eat over six tons in a single day.

Common Bottlenose Dolphin (Tursiops truncates)

• The bottlenose dolphin is the largest of all beaked dolphins, and their habitat range spans most of the globe. They can be identified by their size and dark gray color.
• As with most dolphins, bottlenose dolphins are very social and can be seen in large pods off the Southern California coast.
• Divers will occasionally hear the clicking and whining of bottlenose dolphins using echolocation to communicate or hunt for prey.

Not pictured, but in the area:

Short-beaked common dolphin (Delphinus delphis)

• One of the most abundant dolphin species, these are primarily found in oceanic or offshore habitats in large numbers.
• Short-beaked common dolphins are medium-sized with dark-colored backs, white bellies and a grayish hourglass “saddle” on both sides.
• Ther are often found off the Southern California coast near underwater ridges or seamounts, where upwelling occurs, bringing their prey closer to the surface.

Pacific White-Sided Dolphin (Lagenorhynchus obliquidens)

• Males of this species can reach over 8 feet (2m) in length and are easily identified by their unique coloration. While their face and belly are white, the remainder of their body is dark gray, with a light gray patch and stripe going down both sides.
• Known for their energetic acrobatics, they can also be found riding the bow wake in front of vessels going at an appropriate speed.
• They form very close social groups and are rarely seen in groups smaller than 10 individuals. They occasionally form super-pods of over 300 individuals when food is abundant.

Photos courtesy of Frankie Grant

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European divers have long known about the brilliant diving in the Canary Islands, with countless divers descending on the islands each year to enjoy subtropical diving. There are seven main islands in the Canary Group, and all offer good diving, but we settled on Gran Canaria and the town of Arinaga. This small seaside town is located on the eastern side of the island, not far from the airport, and is the gateway to some of the best diving in the Canary Islands, in the El Cabron Marine Reserve.

There are several dive shops in Arinaga, and it’s easy to do daily dives as all the dive sites are accessible from the shore, with either beach or rock entries and exits.

Diving El Cabron Marine Reserve

From the very first dive we could see why El Cabron had been protected as a marine reserve. For a start, there’s a wide variety of terrain to explore, meaning a wide variety of habitats — rocky reefs, caves, gutters, ledges, walls, seagrass, and sand. And secondly, there is a great variety of marine life on show. It has been estimated that over 400 species live in the marine reserve, with a unique mix of species from the Mediterranean, Atlantic, and even from the Caribbean.

Enjoying 50- to 100-foot (15 to 30 m) visibility and 74 F (23 C) water, we did nine dives in the marine reserve in depths from 30 to 100 feet (10 to 30 m). On every dive there were schools of fish — massive swarms of bream, goatfish, and snapper. We encountered these schools of fish in caves, in gutters and even over the sand at dive sites like Table Top, Two Caves, and Playa del Cabron.

Marine Life in El Cabron

On every dive we also encountered groupers, parrotfish, wrasse, damsels, pufferfish, blennies, flounders, soles, glasseyes, lizardfish, razorfish, scorpionfish, morays, and even garden eels. Our personal fishy favorites were the learned rockfish, a type of seabass that has pretty patterns and a very inquisitive nature.

The marine reserve is also home to an impressive range of invertebrate species, including sea cucumbers, sea hares, sea slugs, nudibranchs, sea stars, fireworms, slipper lobsters, arrow crabs and cleaner shrimp. But we were especially impressed by the cephalopods, seeing common octopus mating, African cuttlefish hunting, and strange, white-spotted octopus at night.

However, the thing that most impressed us — and drew us to the Canary Islands in the first place — was the rays and one special shark species. On every dive we saw rays; on the sand and hiding in the caves. Around 10 ray species live in the marine reserve, including varieties of electric rays, eagle rays, butterfly rays and stingrays. We unfortunately only saw stingrays but encountered three different species.

The El Cabron Marine Reserve is also the best place in the Canary Islands to see common angel sharks. Once widespread in the eastern Atlantic, they are now endangered and only common off of Gran Canaria. We only saw one common angel shark during our stay (we were a little out of season as they prefer the cooler, winter waters), but it was a very special encounter as it was a baby, only 8 inches (20 cm) long.

We had a wonderful time diving the El Cabron Marine Reserve, seeing a host of marine life that was completely new to us and enjoying the relaxed Spanish lifestyle on these unique rocky islands off the coast of Africa.

Photos courtesy of Nigel Marsh

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Diving the HMAS Brisbane

In the few short years that the guided missile destroyer HMAS Brisbane has been on the sea floor it has been transformed from a stark, gray navy ship into a colorful artificial reef. Today the 436-foot (133 m) long ship pulsates with marine life and is an unforgettable dive.

Coloring the ship are soft corals, sponges, hard corals, gorgonians, ascidians and anemones. Hiding between these corals are nudibranchs, shrimp, crabs, crayfish, sea stars, flatworms, and lots of octopus.

Reef fish and pelagic fish cruise the decks of the ship, attracted to this oasis in a sea of sand. Divers commonly see batfish, sweetlips, angelfish, moray eels, fusiliers, snapper, kingfish, trevally, mulloway, lionfish, scorpionfish, basslets, pufferfish and rock cod. Several huge Queensland groupers occupy the ship, but generally hang out on the sand when divers visit. Also common are turtles, stingrays, eagle rays and large white-spotted wedgefish. The ship also has seasonal visitors like leopard sharks in summer and gray nurse sharks and humpback whales in winter.

However, it’s not just the marine life that makes HMAS Brisbane such a fascinating dive, but also the ship itself. The ship has dozens of cabins spread over four levels. And, with 30 access holes cut into the hull, there is virtually no part of the ship that can’t be safely explored. Features of the ship include its big, six-inch guns, the operations room, the engine room, the galley, and the crew quarters. HMAS Brisbane rests in 90 feet (28 m), with its deck at 50 feet (15 m). The funnels are at 12 feet (4 m), making this the perfect spot to end a dive on this incredible warship.

Other Sunshine Coast Dive Sites

The Sunshine Coast is located just north of the Queensland capital of Brisbane and directly south of the Great Barrier Reef. The area has beautiful beaches, numerous resorts and, in the hinterland behind the coast, rainforests, mountain retreats, and even a few wineries. Diving this area is done out of the town of Mooloolaba.

While HMAS Brisbane is easily the most famous dive site off the Sunshine Coast, the area also has other dive attractions. The best of these are three large subtropical reefs off Mooloolaba that are known as Inner Gneering Reef, Outer Gneering Reef, and Murphy’s Reef. These reefs vary in depth from 26 feet (8 m) to 110 feet (33 m) and offer exceptional diving on gutters, ledges, caves, and pinnacles. All are covered in such rich coral gardens that divers could easily think they were exploring the Great Barrier Reef. Reef fish and invertebrate species are abundant, especially nudibranchs, with the Sunshine Coast holding the record for the largest variety of species of these colorful sea slugs.

The deeper reefs generally have the more impressive marine life; which can include pelagic fish, stingrays, wobbegongs, turtles and gray nurse sharks over the winter months. There are dozens of dive sites on these reefs, including The Plateau, The Caves, Castle Rock, Wobby Rock, Hanging Rock and The Pinnacles.

Mudjimba Island

There are several other reefs in the area that divers don’t regularly visit, but one brilliant all-weather site is Mudjimba Island. This island doesn’t get the big fish, or the best visibility at times, but it does have lots of small reef fish and many other critters. The rocky reef that skirts the island varies in depth from 10 feet (3 m) to 60 feet (18 m), is decorated with pretty corals, and is home to a great collection of invertebrates. Commonly sights at Mudjimba Island are lionfish, sea stars, hermit crabs, cowries, mantis shrimp, boxfish, gobies, flatworms, boxer shrimps, cuttlefish, octopus, and countless nudibranchs. Mudjimba is also a great place to see turtles, with dozens using the site to feed and rest.

Shore diving is also possible at a number of sites in the area, such as Point Cartwright and Kings Beach. These sites have coral and reef fish that even snorkelers can see, but access to these sites is very weather dependent. The area also has a fabulous muck dive at La Balsa Park, in the Maroochy River. This easy shore dive is only 20 feet (6 m) deep, and the sandy rocky bottom is home to crabs, shrimps, pipefish, cardinalfish, flatworms, lionfish, octopus, pineapplefish, ghost pipefish, scorpionfish, and even the odd frogfish. However, the main feature is nudibranchs—thousands of nudibranchs.

With most of the dive sites close to shore, the visibility off Mooloolaba can be easily affected by wind, rain and swell. The visibility generally averages around 40 feet (12 m) offshore, and 20 feet (6 m) closer to shore but can vary from 10 feet (3 m) to 100 feet (30 m) and is always clearest after southerly winds.

All photos courtesy of the author, NIGEL MARSH

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Where is Madang?

Divers traveling to this wild and exotic country often overlook the scuba diving in Madang, located on the northern coast of the main island. But, located as it is on the shores of a huge lagoon, which is dotted with reefs and pretty islands, Madang offers a wealth of wonderful dive sites.

For our week in Madang, my wife, Helen Rose, and I stayed at the lovely Madang Resort, home of Niugini Dive Adventures. Each day we ventured out to explore dive sites inside and outside the Madang Lagoon.

Dive sites

Inside the lagoon, we dove a World War II plane wreck of a B25 bomber. Shot down in 1943, this American plane rests in 50 to 70 feet (15 to 22 m) and is one of the best-preserved plane wrecks in PNG. Machine guns, the cockpit and other items are on display, while the plane itself is encrusted with pretty corals.

Pretty corals like these are common at all the dive sites in the lagoon, as they flourish in these calm, sheltered waters. At Langsom, we explored a limestone reef covered in gorgonians, soft corals, whip corals, sea whips and sponges. This spot was also home to a good variety of marine life, including reef sharks, stingrays, and a tawny nurse shark. Corals also color the wreck of the Henry Leith, a small cargo ship scuttled in 65 feet (20 m) for divers to enjoy.

At Pig Bay we explored another plane, this one a more modern Cessna scuttled for divers to appreciate. Located on a sandy slope, this dive is a good muck site, with nudibranchs, pipefish, anemonefish and even ornate ghost pipefish. We enjoyed even better muck diving at the Madang Resort jetty. Each afternoon we would jump in to find seahorses, pipefish, cockatoo waspfish, emperor shrimp, mantis shrimp, nudibranchs, demon stingers, and juvenile batfish.

Channel Dives

During our stay we dove three channels that drain the lagoon. The best were Magic Passage and Sek Passage, as both have walls covered in beautiful corals and masses of fish. At these sites we saw barracuda, trevally, reef sharks, fusiliers, sweetlips and snappers. We missed seeing the hammerhead shark our guide spotted, but they are often present in the area.

Madang’s most famous dive site is a seamount located two miles (3 km) offshore, the amazing Planet Rock. Rising from 2,000 to 15 feet (600 to 5 m), this huge mound is covered in hard corals and buzzing with fish and sharks. We saw schools of barracuda, trevally, mackerel, tuna, rainbow runners, groupers, batfish, and gray reef sharks.

Our favorite dive site outside the lagoon was Barracuda Point, and this incredible site certainly lived up to its name. This colorful wall attracts fish like a magnet. Here we encountered schools of trevally, barracuda, batfish, bumphead parrotfish, fusiliers, snappers, and sweetlips. We also saw crocodilefish, banded sea kraits, moray eels and reef sharks.

The Epaulette Shark

We enjoyed all our dives off Madang, however, our most memorable dives were at night when looking for a little endemic shark. For these dives we headed to Leper Island to dive a site called The Hood, in the hope of finding the most unique animal that lives in Madang — the hooded epaulette shark. Three of the nine species of epaulette shark live in Papua New Guinea’s waters, with the hooded epaulette shark the rarest. These small sharks hide in the coral by day and emerge at night to feed. But as we discovdered, they are very shy and nervous creatures.

We actually encountered a dozen hooded epaulette sharks, but most were hidden under a ledge or quickly disappeared into a hole when we got close. Fortunately, a few were brave enough to go about their business as we watched and photographed them, which entailed them walking over the coral using their fins, hence they are known as walking sharks.

These wonderful little sharks were not the only thing we saw on these night dives, as we also encountered cuttlefish, octopus, moray eels, crabs, shrimps, basket stars, and a conger eel.

With 40 to 100 feet (12 to 30 m) in visibility and a pleasant 84 F (29 C) water temperature, scuba diving in Madang is an overlooked gem, well worth a visit should you ever find yourself in this wild, welcoming land.  

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Part of the world-famous Coral Triangle, an area of outstanding marine biodiversity, the “Island of the Gods” will enchant scuba divers of all levels. With hundreds of fabulous dive sites to choose from, it can be tricky to know where to begin. Let’s take a look at a few of Bali’s top subaquatic gems.

Crystal Bay, Nusa Penida

Southeast of Bali and across the Badung Strait is the idyllic island of Nusa Penida. Scuba divers flock here between July and October for a chance to meet one of the ocean’s strangest creatures: the mola mola.

Averaging six feet (1.8 m) in length and weighing in at around 2,200 pounds (1,000 kg), the Indonesian giant sunfish is quite a character.

The best place to encounter this shy, gentle giant is Crystal Bay, a sunfish cleaning station located in the Ceningan Channel on the northwest coast of Nusa Penida. After a live drop by boat, divers descend to the observation station at around 100 feet (30 m).

The depth combined with the strong, unpredictable currents in the narrow channel make Crystal Bay a thrilling dive recommended for experienced divers only. It’s worth noting that temperatures in the channel can drop to as low as 64 F (18 C) so a thicker wetsuit is advisable. 

Eel Garden, Menjangan Island

Although less than five miles (8 km) northeast of Bali, the remote island of Menjangan feels a world away. As a part of the Bali Barat National Park since 1941, protected Menjangan offers divers a natural retreat from the heady feel of the mainland. Those who venture off the beaten track will be rewarded by one of the top-ranked dives in the region.

Eel Garden is an exquisite and varied site located on the island’s western edge. Divers descend from the boat onto a coral-encrusted sheer wall that starts at 60 feet (18 m) and drops away to more than 160 feet (50 m). Filter feeders such as gorgonian fans and massive whip corals stretch outward in the nutrient-rich water as divers drift past in the gentle current.

Take a closer look at the gorgonians and you might spot tiny pygmy seahorses with their tails wrapped around the coral. Keep looking out to the blue for a chance to see reef sharks and dogtooth tuna cruising past.

The sheer wall then slopes into a sandy, shallower plateau that is home to a mesmerizing expanse of masked garden eels. If you’re looking for an example of a vibrant, varied and healthy coral ecosystem, don’t miss Eel Garden.

Manta Point, Nusa Penida

On Nusa Penida’s southeast corner, Manta Point is a must-see destination for any scuba diver in Bali. Accessible by boat, this area is home to a resident population of majestic reef manta rays.

With pectoral fin spans of up to 18 feet (5.5 m), this graceful giant frequents the many cleaning stations in the area where small cleaner fish are on stand-by to remove pesky parasites.

As reef mantas are non-migratory it’s possible to see all kinds of fascinating behavior here, including mating trains, where multiple males compete for the attention of a single female, and the incredible acrobatics of plankton feeding.

Average depths at Manta Point are between 30 to 40 feet (10 to 12 m). Although this is a shallow, generally easy dive, there can be current in the area so get a proper orientation from your divemaster.

Seraya Secrets, Tulamben

If you want to experience the incredible biodiversity in Bali’s waters, we’ll let you in on a little secret: look in the muck. Specifically, the sprawling seabed of black volcanic sand better known as Seraya Secrets.

Located just off the beach near Tulamben, with an average depth of 33 feet (10 m), Seraya Secrets is home to the weird and wonderful. At first glance, the expanse of rubble, rock and coral fragments may appear to be a barren wasteland. But this couldn’t be farther from the truth. Divers in the know will tell you that this shallow muck site is a nutrient-rich treasure trove.

Ghost pipefish, harlequin shrimp, mimic octopus, pygmy seahorses, nudibranch, frogfish and more — the lengthy list of strange and marvelous marine species here will have you squealing into your reg.

To help you enjoy this dive to the max, we offer the following tips. First, be top of your buoyancy and fin control so you don’t disturb the silty bottom. Be patient and take your time during the dive. The slower you go, the more you’ll see and the longer your gas will last. Consider hiring an eagle-eyed Balinese divemaster to help you critter hunt.

USAT Liberty wreck, Tulamben

In January 1942, WWII United States Army Transport vessel Liberty was en route from Australia to the Philippines carrying rubber, railway parts, and explosives when it was torpedoed by the Japanese in the Lombok Strait.

After a failed attempt to salvage its cargo, the 412-foot (125 m) Liberty was beached in Tulamben, on Bali’s east coast. When Mount Agung erupted in 1963, powerful lava flow pushed the wreck offshore.

In the decades since, the Liberty has been conquered by spectacular colonies of stunning corals and become home to an incredible variety of marine life. Resting on a bed of volcanic black sand in just 65 feet (20 m) of water and 130 feet (40 m) from the shore, Liberty is now one of the world’s top wreck dives and among the most accessible. 

Schools of bumphead parrotfish, barracuda and trevally greet divers, and the wreck itself is teeming with life. Colorful nudibranchs, tiny pygmy seahorses, camouflaged scorpionfish and territorial gobies are permanent residents.

Wide-angle and macro photographers alike will be in underwater heaven. The Liberty also makes for an unforgettable night dive.

How to Get the Most Out of Diving Bali

One of the best things about diving in Bali is its variety. From convivial hostels to glamorous five-star resorts, there are options for all divers and budgets. To get the most out of scuba diving in Bali, it’s important to consider your location. Travel time between islands and within Bali requires patience.

Avoid staying in Denpasar, Kuta, or Sanur; there’s no diving nearby and commuting to the coast will eat into precious dive time. Consider a resort on the coast near your chosen dive sites to reduce your travel time.

There are hundreds of dive operators in Bali. Research and make sure you select a reputable dive center with small group sizes that puts your safety and enjoyment first.

If time is of the essence, consider a liveaboard to help you get the most bang for your buck. Eat, sleep, dive, rinse, repeat.

Underwater conditions in Bali can vary, even on a single dive. It’s best if you’re certified as an advanced open water diver before your trip so you can access the deeper dives. Experience with boat drift diving and currents is also helpful.

The Best Time to Dive Bali

Thanks to its location on the equator, Bali enjoys a warm, tropical climate with lows of 68 F (20 C) in January to highs of 93 F (33 C) in October. The wet monsoon season runs from January to March. This period naturally coincides with the low tourist season, where resorts and beaches are quieter and accommodation is often more affordable.

Diving is not ideal during the wet season as the rain has a negative effect on visibility. Savvy macro and muck divers might, however, find this to their liking. The dry, sunny season runs from April to October. The dry season, although busier, provides more favorable conditions for scuba diving and as is generally considered the best season to dive in Bali.

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The Maltese archipelago is the collective name given to the three islands of Malta, Gozo, and Comino, which sit surrounded by the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean just off the southern tip of Sicily. Malta is the largest of the three islands and is the favorite destination for tourists. It is also extremely popular among scuba divers, with more than 50,000 of them visiting this beautiful island every year pre-Covid.

Getting to Malta

Getting to Malta is simple, with mainstream and budget airlines flying in from almost all European countries. If you are traveling from further afield, you may need to fly via one of these countries to get to Malta.

If you are planning to dive the epic dive sites surrounding Gozo, you must first fly to Malta (Air Malta) from almost any European country and then allow an hour to get to the Circewwa Harbor, which is Malta’s northernmost point. Once you are there, buy your ferry tickets at the terminal and take the 30-minute ferry ride over to this beautiful island. When returning to Malta from Gozo, go straight to the Mgarr Terminal in Gozo and take the 30-minute back. It’s quite simple and ferries run all day, so no problem if you miss one.

What to expect in Malta

The waters surrounding the islands are home to over 100 dive sites, all with their own unique qualities. Home to some of the cleanest water found in the Mediterranean, you’ll never fall short of things to see in Malta.

Visibility around the islands of Malta is excellent and can be up to 100 feet (30 m) in calm waters. And, most of these top dive sites are only a short distance from each other, so you can easily dive all morning. Some may require a boat journey, but they are all very close by—perfect if you get a little seasick.

Once you’re on the islands, getting around is simple with buses, taxis, and even bikes. Bikes are great if you would like to get some adventure and exercise, unless you are staying on the island of Comino. There are no tarmacked roads and only a handful of cars. It is a small island, with only a few places to stay and provides an adventure all in itself.

Malta’s underwater world is spectacular, and often places in the top 10 of European diving. There is a range of diving to suit every level of diver, from open-water newbies to highly trained technical divers. There are a number of strange rock formations, caves, swim-throughs, drop-offs, mysterious tunnels, beautifully colored reefs rich with life, and epic underwater topography.

Malta also has a lot to offer topside. With its inviting natural harbors, cliff edges, bays, and creeks, you won’t fall short of things to see on Malta and its sister islands.

There are no seasons for diving in Malta, as you can pretty much dive here year-round. However, January and February are the coldest months. Even then, the land temperatures average 55 Fahrenheit (13 C), with the water temperature staying at around 61 F (16 C). The warmest months are June through to November, where you’ll only need a shorty or a 3 mm wetsuit. Diving during these summer months can get pretty busy with tourists visiting for their summer vacations.

Top sites for scuba diving in Malta

Santa Maria Caves, Comino

Where are they?

The Santa Maria Caves are located on the north side of the small island of Comino and are hugely popular among divers because of their fascinating cave systems.

What makes them special?

There are 10 caves and each has its own unique beauty. Some offer beautiful scenery; others offer swim-throughs and large underwater tunnels. If you are a budding photographer, don’t miss this opportunity. Additionally, dive guides will usually bring some fish food to feed the large numbers of sea bream in the area. This makes for a great experience, enjoyed by all.

Extra details:

Pretty much all dive operators travel to this dive site, whether you are staying on Comino, Gozo or Malta itself. This site does require a boat ride, even from Comino. The average depth is around 50 to 65 feet (15 to 20 m) depending on which route your guide takes. This is the perfect dive for open water divers who would like to see some spectacular sights as currents are minimal and caves are large. Keep an eye out for nudibranchs, crabs, eels, mullet, spiny lobster, damselfish, and morays.

When to Go:

Unless otherwise noted, visitors can dive this site and all the following ones year-round.

P-31 Wreck Dive, Comino

Where is it? Located off the coast of Comino lies the P-31 wreck dive.

What makes it special?

This wreck began life as an East German minesweeper. In 1992, it was sold to Malta and renamed P-31. Malta used it as a patrol boat until 2009, when it was scuttled and became a spectacular dive site.

Extra details:

Most, if not all dive operators, visit this top dive site. This is the perfect dive site if you are an open-water diver, looking for some wreck diving experience. The boat was cleared before it was scuttled, meaning that there are no snags, allowing novice divers to semi-penetrate the wreck without fear of getting stuck in a tight spot. The wreck lies 60 feet (18 m) below sea level. Watch out for lizardfish that call this wreck their home.

Inland Sea and the Blue Hole, Gozo

Where is it?

The Blue Hole is located in Dweijra, Gozo and is by far the most famous dive site in Malta.

What makes it so special?

This dive site overlooks another spectacular dive site called the Azure Window. The natural arch, for which the Azure Window is named, collapsed into the sea in 2017, scattering rocks and boulders into the waters below. The dive starts like very few other dives, in an inland sea pool, with a tunnel that leads to a large hole that opens up to offer a phenomenal view of the wide, open ocean. Home to strange but interesting rock formations and epic marine life, this dive site should not be missed. As the drop-off is so steep and severe, it can give divers the feeling of being right at the edge of the world.

Extra details:

This top dive is suitable for all levels of diver as there are a number of routes that you can take depending on your experience—just be sure to discuss this with your dive guide before embarking on the dive. This dive can go down to 72 feet (22 m) depending on your level of expertise. Keep an eye out for sea bream, octopus, lobsters and moray eels.

Bristol Blenheim Bomber, Malta

Where is it?

This aircraft wreck is located off the east coast of the main island of Malta, on the seabed of Xorb il-Ghagin.

What makes it so special?

The Blenheim was a light World War II British aircraft. It is in relatively good condition, with its wings and engine still intact. There is nothing more fascinating than seeing a piece of history that was meant to be up in the air, now resting on the seabed. Keep a look out for radios and even bombs that still surround the wreck. Also, don’t miss the stunning marine creatures that have made this wreck their home.

Extra details:

This is a dive site for advanced and highly qualified divers, as it is a continuous dive that goes down to a depth of 138 feet (42 m). A dive to this location also requires special planning. As it’s quite a deep dive, it may be a good idea to participate in a brief a course with your chosen dive operator so that all the information will be f

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The stars of the show

Whenever you hear people talk about must-sees when macro diving, one name pops up in nearly every conversation: the scorpionfish known as rhinopias. This type of fish appears in a range of different sizes and colors, all of which are utterly magnificent. Spending its life as an ambush predator on the ocean floor, rhinopias blends in well with its surroundings, waiting patiently for small animals to stray a little bit too close. Once in range, the rhinopias quickly snaps up the unfortunate critter with an all-encompassing gulp.

Another favorite of macro enthusiasts is the frogfish, a type of anglerfish. Frogfish are the not too distant cousins of the aforementioned rhinopias. They too spend most of their lives on the ocean floor, consuming prey with giant gulps. However, instead of lookin magnificent, divers often describe them as being so ugly they’re cute. Often covered in wart-like patterns or streaming ‘hair,’ their laser focus on their prey will make you glad you’re not a tiny edible fish. Because they’re an anglerfish, frogfish also have a small lure atop their heads, which they flop back and forth in order to catch unsuspecting prey, much like a fisherman—hence their name.

One of the cutest macro stars is the pygmy seahorse, which photographers often covet as the ultimate macro subject. These tiny seahorses average around 1-2 centimeters, and they’re well worth seeking out, usually with the eyes of a seasoned guide. Living among amazingly vibrant fan corals, which they match almost perfectly, pygmy seahorses can be extremely hard to spot. When viewing them or trying to take a photo just remember that you can easily stress the coral polyps that they live among, not to mention the seahorses themselves, so remember not to touch and to be gentle and kind.

The surprise performers

Lembeh Strait not only hosts famous macro critters but also produces a range of unexpected surprises. One secret of the strait, the anemonefish parasite, is known for gruesomely cutting off the tongue of its host and taking its place within the anemonefish’s mouth. These parasites are amazing to see, primarily due to their tiny black eyes, which look straight out of the anemonefish’s mouth.

The flamboyant cuttlefish is another lesser known—but just as incredible—highlight of macro diving in Lembeh Strait. With vivid pink and purple displays that ripple across their tiny cephalopod bodies, they are absolutely stunning to behold. Go at the right time of year and you may even be lucky enough to see a few babies still encased in their eggs.

What to take

When macro diving in Lembeh Strait, bringing a camera is definitely top of the list. And one of the best things about macro photography is that you don’t need a fancy camera or enormous lights to get a decent shot of your favorite critter. Using the in-built flash or a small torch will give most modern point-and-shoot cameras enough light. Be warned however that you may develop an addiction to underwater photography.

It’s also a good idea to bring a muck stick, whether you’re a photographer or not. These skinny metal sticks are not meant to poke or prod animals, but rather to allow you to remain still on the sandy seafloor when observing a sea creature. Without them divers often risk bumping into delicate corals or crushing unsuspecting animals with their fins while trying to maneuver. When used correctly, these sticks help protect the delicate ecosystem.

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What you’ll see

There are 75 sculptures, all created from material that promotes the growth of corals and marine life. Part of the motivation behind creating the underwater sculpture park was to encourage conservation and renewal of the marine life around Grenada. 

deCaires Taylor created most of the sculptures to look like humans. Art and nature collide on this unconventional canvas to create something that is eerie, haunting, beautiful, and evolving. Marine life has infused the Molinere Underwater Sculpture Park with the essence of life, and signs of its growth and decay are evident on the human-like structures present in the clear, tropical waters.

Famous pieces

One of the park’s most famous sculptures is The Vicissitudes, a circle of 26 Grenadian children holding hands. Other installations include a man on a bicycle, a mermaid, and a woman sitting on a bench taking a selfie.

Grace Reef is a dynamic installation that fully embodies the interrelationship between art and nature. It consists of female figures that become covered in sand and exposed again as the tides and water manipulate the natural environment in which they sit.

The Lost Correspondent is often also called The Newspaper Man. The sculpture shows a man, sitting at a desk and working on a typewriter.

More recent installations include The Silent Cry, which is a woman enfolded in the roots of a tree, and pieces inspired by ancient Amerindian art created by Troy Lewis.

Christ of the Deep is a replica of the original sculpture, found on land, in St. George’s Harbor. The original sculpture was given to Grenada’s people in a gesture of thanks after they assisted 600 passengers and crew when the Bianca C cruise liner sank near Grenada. The wreck of the Bianca C is a popular dive site, and the largest wreck in the Caribbean.

How to get there

The Molinere Underwater Sculpture Park is located off the coast of Molinere Point. The park is part of a marine protected area, and there is a small fee for diving with all the proceeds going into conservation and upkeep of the park.

You can only visit the Underwater Sculpture Park by boat – and then you have the option of a glass-bottom boat to snorkel or to dive. Diving gives you the opportunity to get close to the sculptures.

A visit to the Underwater Sculpture Park in Grenada is not so much about seeing pretty coral and tropical fish. It is an experience that is both haunting and captivating at the same time.

All images courtesy of JASON DECAIRES TAYLOR 

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Ambergris Caye

As the biggest and most popular of Belize’s cays, Ambergris offers impressive visibility coupled with pleasant, easy diving. Ambergris is ideal for casual divers or anyone traveling with non-divers. With 25 miles (40 km) of barrier reef just 1 mile (1.6 km) offshore, getting your dive fix doesn’t mean sacrificing your whole day.

The gorgeous coral reef system here features a classic Caribbean spur and groove formation. Long fingers of reef run perpendicular to the shore, creating caves, swim-throughs, ledges, and all kinds of nooks and crannies that play host to an immense amount of marine life.

Hawksbill, green and loggerhead sea turtles frequent the area, and join the elegant spotted eagle rays gliding along the coast. If you’re looking for sharks, here — more than any other cay — you have the chance of seeing nurse and gray Caribbean reef sharks. The best dive sites in Ambergris include Shark Ray Alley, Hol Chan, and Tacklebox Canyons.

Gladden Spit

Just off the Placencia peninsula, on the southeast coast of Belize, lies the very special Gladden Spit, part of the Silk Cay Marine Preserve. Between March and June, a mass of tropical fish comes together to spawn around the full moon each lunar cycle.

Dog snapper, mutton snapper, cubera, and many others congregate to mate and spawn in their thousands. And all this activity attracts a special visitor: the whale shark.

The sloping reef starts at 60 feet (18 m) and drops away to over 160 feet (50 m). To dive here and catch all the action, consult a local marine biologist and dive operator. Ensure both you and your buddy keep a respectful distance from these majestic and endangered creatures.

Glover’s Reef Atoll

Glover’s is the southernmost of Belize’s three atolls and the most remote. It’s an exquisite, oblong-shaped reef roughly 18 miles (29 km) long and only 7 miles (11 km) wide. A pristine, shallow lagoon freckled with over 700 patch reefs and five tiny islands can be found in its center.

Getting to Glover’s Atoll can be challenging and time-consuming, but those that brave the journey will be rewarded. Basic, no-frills accommodation is the norm, making it an affordable and appealing option for divers on a budget. The end result is that the human footprint is refreshingly small here, and reef health thrives as a result.

Nurse sharks, turtles, and eagle rays are present throughout the year. Whale sharks, while uncommon, have also been known to cruise by. Hammerheads and tiger sharks frequent the rougher northeast waters. Rare and endangered stands of elkhorn coral thrive in the shallow waters off the northwest coast. As with elsewhere in Belize, tropical reef fish abound. Signature dives in Glover’s Reef include Long Cay Wall, the Pinnacles, Southwest Cay Wall, Aquarium, and Shark Point.

Lighthouse Reef Atoll

Lighthouse is the easternmost atoll in Belize’s Barrier Reef. Although it’s just 50 miles (80 km) from Belize City, its reefs have been hailed as the healthiest and most developed in the region. Given its position in the Atlantic Ocean, it can be subject to strong winds. Luckily, there is no shortage of fabulous sites on the lee side to choose from.  

The reefs here display dazzling marine diversity and abundant life. Schools of cobalt blue Creole wrasse are common, as are purple gorgonian fan corals that filter feed along the sheer walls. Large brown barrel sponges often hold protected Nassau grouper, which enjoy the swirling jacuzzi inside. Take a closer look to find banded cleaner shrimps offering a free gill cleaning.

The best sites here are wall dives, so divers should be comfortable with both drift and deep diving techniques. Top dive sites in Lighthouse include Half Moon Cay, Long Cay, and the world-famous Belize Blue Hole.

Turneffe Reef Atoll

At 30 miles (48 km) long and 10 miles (16 km) wide, Turneffe Atoll is the largest in the entire Mesoamerican Barrier Reef. Surrounded by outstanding natural beauty and with more than 70 dive sites just a quick boat ride away, the only hard part is leaving. And while it may be big, the pace here is perfect for divers who want to get away from the hustle and bustle of the more populous resorts.

The unique ecosystem here boasts more than 200 mangrove islands, making it an ideal nursery for the endemic and elusive white-spotted toadfish. Manatees and even saltwater crocodiles can be spotted near lagoons in the south. Its nutrient-rich ecology has also made Turneffe an important spawning area for reef fish.

Such diversity means dive sites to enchant all levels. Beginner divers will love the western side’s shallow reefs, while the deep walls and varied topography in the east and south will delight experienced divers. Try to take a plunge at The Elbow, Lindsey’s Back Porch, Chasbo’s Corner, and Jo-Jo’s.

Get the most out of scuba diving in Belize

With so many fabulous dive sites to choose from in a sprawling barrier reef system, a liveaboard will give you the opportunity to taste a bit of everything. Itineraries are robust and diverse, ticking off many of the signatures sites listed above. Most offer an 8-day, 7-night trip and the opportunity to do as many as 28 dives!

If spending a week on a boat isn’t your idea of heaven, check out an all-inclusive dive resort on the reef of your choice. Accommodation wise, the variety and quality are excellent.

The Best Time to Dive Belize

With subtropical climate, scuba diving in Belize is possible year-round. But as a tropical location, it has both a dry and a wet season. The latter runs from June to November, with most rain falling between August and October. Dry season runs from December through May. For your best chance of seeing all of Belize’s critters and diving in excellent conditions, visit between December and March.

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WHAT ARE THE COVID-19 REQUIREMENTS FOR ENTRY INTO MEXICO?

According to CNN Travel, visitors to Mexico don’t need to provide a negative Covid-19 test result or quarantine on arrival. You will need to complete a health declaration form and scan the associated QR code on arrival.

WHAT ARE THE COVID-19 REQUIREMENTS FOR RE-ENTRY INTO THE USA?

Upon departure for the United States, all travelers (including U.S. citizens and fully vaccinated travelers) are required to have a negative Covid-19 test result no more than three days before they board their flights to the U.S.

The CDC Mexico guide outlines what to do after returning to the U.S., including when to self-isolate and when follow-up tests are required.

WHAT IS THE COVID-19 SITUATION IN MEXICO?

Mexico is open to travelers and has a four-tier traffic light system of restrictions for each state. The restrictions will vary depending on the area you travel to, though as of June 2, 2021, most states are listed as green or yellow. Yellow means all work can resume and public gatherings can take place, and green means there are no restrictions.

According to the Reuters COVID-19 tracker on June 2, 2021, there have been 2,413,742 infections and 223,568 coronavirus-related deaths reported in the country since the pandemic began.

IS IT WORTH VISITING MEXICO? IS ANYTHING OPEN?

Absolutely. Businesses are open and Mexico is welcoming travelers.

WHAT YOU’LL SEE IN MEXICO AND WHY IT’S WORTH IT

Scuba diving in Mexico offers something for just about every dive experience level and interest. Wherever you go, the waters are full of life, and you’ll be surrounded by Mexico’s vibrant culture and rich history.

With numerous dive destinations to choose from, you can go diving in Mexico year-round and have the adventure of a lifetime. Here are our top dive spots to visit in this breathtaking country.

Guadalupe Island

Ask any diver where to go diving with great white sharks and they will likely tell you Guadalupe Island. It takes a 24-hour boat ride to reach this remote rocky island, but the rewards are well worth it.

Guadalupe’s waters are bright blue and calm, making it perfect for cage diving with great white sharks, which congregate here in large numbers. It is also the only place in the world where you can see great white sharks in relatively warm and astonishingly clear water. All of which makes Guadalupe the top cage-diving destination in the world.

Socorro Island

Socorro Island is Mexico’s premier liveaboard diving destination, renowned for marine megafauna diving and striking underwater landscapes.

Part of the Revillagigedo Islands, this group of four volcanic islands is famous for having numerous friendly giant Pacific manta rays, especially at San Benedicto Island’s manta cleaning station The Boiler.

These wild islands also host abundant sharks including silky, Galapagos, whitetips and silvertip sharks. Depending on when you go diving at Socorro, you’ll also likely see bottlenose dolphins (January to March), humpback whales (December to April) and whale sharks (November and December).

Cabo Pulmo

If you love coral-reef diving, don’t miss the Cabo Pulmo National Park. It is home to a 20,000-year-old reef, which is the oldest reef on the west coast of America.

With clear waters and sheltered diving, it’s easy to spot some of the 6,000 marine life species that call this reef home. There is plenty of macro life and reef fish, as well as passing sharks and humpback whales.

That said, diving with schooling mobula rays is the real highlight of diving at Cabo Pulmo. These rays congregate in enormous groups at the Sea of Cortez every year.

Take a trip to nearby La Paz for the chance to dive with schooling hammerheads, sea lions, and whales. You’ll also find excellent wreck diving, caves, and seamounts in the area.

Cozumel

Another of Mexico’s best reef-diving destinations, Cozumel offers year-round diving at thriving reefs that are protected by the Cozumel Reefs National Park.

Diving in Cozumel is for every diver. As well as exciting drift and wall dives, there are easy shallow dives and deep dive sites. All of them feature the lure of azure waters and hundreds of fish species. And if that’s not enough, there are endless white sand beaches to relax on after your dives.

Isla Mujeres and Cancun

lsla Mujeres is a picture-perfect island in the Caribbean Sea, just off the coast of Cancun. Renowned for its idyllic beaches and coral reefs, it is also Mexico’s best destination for swimming with whale sharks.

These gentle giants visit Isla Mujeres every year from mid-May to September and various local operators can take you out to snorkel with them. While you’re there, be sure to visit MUSA — the Cancun Underwater Museum of Art.

Make sure you take time to visit nearby Playa del Carmen to go diving with bull sharks (November to March) and go cenote diving from Cancun. Exploring Mexico’s beautiful cenotes is a unique experience not to be missed.

Kathryn Curzon, a shark conservationist and dive travel writer for Scuba Schools International (SSI), wrote this article.

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