Queensland

Ribbon Reefs and the Coral Sea

There’s never been a better time to dive the pristine, rarely-visited dive sites of the Ribbon Reefs and the Coral Sea — you’ll be sharing them with a very small group of divers. Both Mike Ball Dive Expeditions and Spirit of Freedom dive liveaboards have three-, four- and seven-day itineraries departing every week to the Ribbon Reefs, Coral Sea, Osprey Reef (Shark City), as well as Holmes and Bougainville Reefs.

Each year there are also a number of exploratory expeditions, visiting Horne Island and the far northern reaches of the Great Barrier Reef, and diving the incredible Yongala wreck — but these trips book out months (sometimes years) in advance so you need to plan ahead.

Cairns Outer Reef by liveaboard

Pro Dive Cairns and Divers Den run flexible itineraries to the Outer Reef each week. Choose from one-, two-, three- and four-night trips diving a variety of reefs including Saxon, Norman and Hastings Reefs. The trips include four to five dives per day, including exciting night dives with reef sharks. You will encounter a wide diversity of marine life including giant clams, turtles, stingrays, reef sharks, an incredible variety of tropical fish, spectacular coral formations and consistent underwater visibility.

Minke Whale Magic

During June and July each year, dwarf minke whales visit the northern Ribbon Reefs to breed and now Mike Ball, Spirit of Freedom, Divers Den and Pro Dive all offer three- to four-day liveaboard trips for an in-water encounter with these friendly and inquisitive cetaceans. This a passive encounter, in which 26-foot (8 m) baleen whales approach snorkelers, for a truly magical experience. This is the only place in the world you can experience an encounter like this.

Townsville and Magnetic Island

In recent years the stunning central Great Barrier Reef has played second fiddle to the reefs out from Cairns and Port Douglas, but there are two great reasons to rediscover beautiful reefs such as John Brewer and Lodestone: the 100-year-old wreck of the Yongala and world-famous sculptor Jason deCaire’s underwater installation; the Museum of Underwater Art (MOUA). Dive it by liveaboard with Adrenalin Dive, based in Ayr with Yongala Dive, or base yourself on beautiful Magnetic Island.

Heron Island

Heron Island is in the Southern Great Barrier Reef, and you reach it via helicopter or ferry from Gladstone, Queensland. Heron Island is most famous for its spectacular coral reef and as a sanctuary for a wide variety of marine life. Accommodation ranges from rooms set among a leafy forest, to beachside rooms with immediate access to crystal-clear waters teeming with nesting turtles, reef fish, turtles, rays, reef sharks, and more. The 20 nearby dive sites are easily accessible by boat within minutes of the jetty.

Lady Elliot Island

Lady Elliot Island is one of those rare gems that exist through the serendipitous combination of location and human intervention. Location is important as the island is just 6 miles (10 km) from the edge of the continental shelf and the East Australian Current. This translates to frequent pelagic action such as manta rays, migrating whales and nesting grounds for green and loggerhead turtles. And human intervention? Lady Elliot Island sits within the Green (no take) Zone of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park, which is why the corals are in perfect condition and over 1,000 marine species can be found in the waters around the island.

New South Wales 

Lord Howe Island

Imagine you had to design the perfect place for an adventurous scuba diver to escape to for a week’s diving vacation. You’d probably go for an island, maybe where tropical, sub-tropical and temperate ocean currents converge, a nice long reef around a lagoon, so you could dive and snorkel inside the lagoon, and explore more adventurous stuff outside in the gullies and arches. Then you’d probably give the island some sharp drop-offs, and maybe add a few small islands around to create a variety of dive sites. You could not design a more magnificent setting if you tried. The island has limited capacity, so is booked up quickly (especially now) with many divers returning annually

Plus! Ever thought of becoming a PADI certified Exploratory Diver? Lord Howe Island is the only place you can do this.

Julian Rocks

Among the regular species found year-round at Julian Rocks, a 10-15 minute boat ride from Byron Bay, are wobbegong sharks, eagle rays, cuttlefish, king fish, trevally, mulloway, and three different species of sea turtle: loggerhead, green, and hawksbill. There is an abundance of hard and soft coral as well. You can also see manta rays, gray nurse sharks, and leopard (also called zebra) sharks at various times throughout the year.

Nelson Bay

Whether you’re interested in the big stuff or teeny, tiny macro delights, you’ll find them here in Nelson Bay, Port Stephens, which has long been a popular NSW seaside retreat. Some locals will tell you that if you haven’t dived North Rock or Looking Glass (think large schools of gray nurse sharks), you don’t deserve to call yourself a real diver. Others opt for Fly Point or Pipeline, which feature nudibranchs, seahorses, and all sorts of macro wonders.

Jervis Bay

Weedies, whales and the world’s whitest sand—Jervis Bay is three hours’ drive south of Sydney, and it’s already Insta-famous for having the world’s whitest sand at Hyams Beach. And the underwater world in the bay itself is pretty special as well. With over 60 dive sites, divers can expect to see weedy sea dragons, wobbegongs, gray nurse sharks, Port Jackson sharks, beautiful sponge gardens and potentially humpback whales, depending on the season.

Coffs Harbour

Coffs Harbour diving opportunities include the marine reserves of the Solitary Islands; South Solitary Island in particular. There, among boulders, walls and gutters, you will see anything from mantas to handfish, and everything in between. At nearby Split Solitary, among coral and kelp, you will see many species of resident fish, as well as eels, turtles and gray nurse sharks. In season (May to September) you can also swim with migrating humpback whales.

Western Australia

Whale Sharks and Whales at Ningaloo Reef

Swim with whale sharks and humpback whales and dive Ningaloo Reef with Exmouth Dive & Whalesharks. The Coral Coast’s Ningaloo Reef is a pristine aquatic wonderland that is home to an abundance of marine life, including dolphins, manta rays, turtles, humpback whales and, of course, the whale sharks. Exmouth Dive & Whalesharks are whale shark tour pioneers, with the experience, knowledge and reputation that will ensure that your day will be unforgettable.

Exmouth Navy Pier

Also based at Exmouth, Dive Ningaloo is the only dive center with access to world-famous dive site Exmouth Navy Pier, voted as one of the top 10 dive sites in Australia and one of the top shore dives in the world. 

Rowley Shoals

The Rowley Shoals are a chain of three spectacular, pristine coral atolls that rise up from the ocean floor 1,300 feet (400 m) below on the very edge of Australia’s continental shelf, creating one of the most remote dive locations in Australia. Diving Rowley Shoals is seasonal, with trips only available around October each year. Dive among the giant clams, shellfish, giant potato cod and Maori wrasse. Trevally, mackerel, and tuna hover in large schools around you, and you can discover over 200 species of coral and over 650 species of fish. Visibility in excess of 200 feet (60 m) is common.

Christmas Island

Dive Christmas Island, Australia’s own Galapagos in the Indian Ocean, with pristine coral reefs and plenty of pelagic action, including schools of silky sharks, mantas, eagle rays and whale sharks. Being so remote, you’ll be diving with small groups, with reefs, forests of enormous gorgonian fans, and plenty of sea caverns to explore. Plus, during surface intervals, swim with spinner dolphins.

Cocos Keeling Island

Dive Cocos Keeling Island—a little jewel in the Indian Ocean, with pristine coral reefs and mantas, eagle rays, schooling reef sharks, pods of dolphins, a resident friendly dugong called Kat — and (officially) Australia’s most beautiful beach at Direction Island — is also home to one of the world’s best drift snorkels.

South Australia

Neptune Islands

To see a great white shark in the wild is absolutely grand and rare, but to come face to face with one underwater is one of the most exciting experiences available to divers today. Come and ‘hunt with cameras’ the world’s best-known and most-feared shark with the world’s best: Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions. On a four-day liveaboard trip you will also encounter New Zealand fur seals and an abundance of bird life, dolphins and other unique fish and wildlife.

Fleurieu Peninsula

The beautiful Fleurieu Peninsula is home to one of the world’s most unique species of marine life, the leafy seadragon. These stunning creatures are found nowhere else in the world except the Great Southern Reef of Australia.

Whyalla

Each winter, tens of thousands of Australian giant cuttlefish gather to mate and spawn. This mass event happens nowhere else in the world. These cuttlefish are endemic to South Australia and have a very short life cycle of two years, which means the need to mate in such large numbers to ensure the success of generations to come. 

Kangaroo Island

Kangaroo Island is a nature lover’s dream. With large, resident pods of bottlenose dolphins, it is the ideal location to immerse yourself with these playful mammals. Shore diving at Kingscote Jetty will also reveal a wide array of macro wonders, from blennies and angler fish to the odd leafy sea dragon. 

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Organized for dive guests through the Grand Sea Explorer, our trip is an optional add-on before or after any liveaboard tour. These bespoke experiences are set up as guests wish—a few days in Cairo or Luxor, a visit to Aswan or Abu Simbel—and we’ve opted for a week-long itinerary that encompasses the greatest hits. We’ll start in Hurghada with a private driver, who will transport us to Luxor, where we’ll spend two days. From there it’s further south to Aswan and Abu Simbel, and finally a flight to Cairo for two days before heading home. The sheer scope of the history we’re about to see could—and has—filled libraries full of books, so let it be said that this short story cannot possibly summarize what we saw on our visit. I’ll focus instead on highlights and leave it to you, dear readers, to dig deeper into the history of any particular topic that strikes your fancy.

Luxor

“Habibi means sweetheart, so that’s our call sign,” says our guide, Nermeen Melad. “In a crowded place, I say habibi, you answer the same.” We meet Nermeen upon arrival in Luxor, which rises like an oasis out of the brown land, hugging the east bank of the Nile. This remarkable river is distinct not only for being the world’s longest, but also for flowing from south to north. So, confusingly (at least for us), we’re starting our tour in Upper Egypt, meaning the southern portion of the country.  

Nermeen, a Luxor native, picks us up at our hotel, the Steigenberger Nile Palace, after lunch and a swim at the Nile-front hotel’s pool. Our first stop is the magnificent Karnak Temple, which can get crowded—hence her habibi call and response. Turns out we don’t need it though; the crowds are pretty light on this sweltering September day.

Throughout the trip, I find myself in an almost perpetual state of awe at the sheer age—and size—of everything we see, starting with Karnak. Encompassing about 200 acres, the massive temple complex was built to honor the sun god, Amun, his wife Mut, and their sun Khonsu, with each successive pharaoh putting his stamp on it. Reigning from ca. 1291 to 1279 BC, the pharaoh Sety I’s contribution stands out—the Great Hypostyle Hall, an enormous forest of 134 gigantic sandstone columns, originally built to support a heavy roof. Atop each column sits a lotus; the closed flowers meant to support the weight of the roof, and the open ones meant purely for decoration. And though today most of the color has washed away, we can still see glimpses of the jewel-like tones that once adorned these columns.

Our second stop of the day is the Luxor Temple, connected to the Karnak complex via the ancient Avenue of Sphinxes, lined—as the name implies— with sphinxes. Today, it’s been excavated, and visitors can walk the length of the road, roughly 1.7 miles or 3 km, though we opt to drive in the heat.  

Luxor Temple, though smaller than Karnak, is no less impressive. Built around 1400 BC by Amenhotep III (1390–1352 BC) and completed by Tutankhamun (1336–1327 BC), it’s Ramses II, (1303–1213 BC), who added onto the temple, that exerts the strongest visual influence here. Flanking the entrance are two gigantic statues of the pharaoh, 46 feet tall. Already larger than life in his own time, this influential king was the father to well over 100 children, and he’ll pop up again all over the place during the week.  

With our first day spent in the temples, the second day is reserved for the tombs. Because the sun sets in the west, the western bank of the Nile symbolized the end of life for ancient Egyptians, so it’s here that you’ll find both the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens. Nermeen starts our day at the Valley of the Queens, visiting the two monumental sites in the opposite order from most tours so that we don’t have to contend with crowds. Her ploy works, and as we trek into the valley from the parking lot, we see two or three other people at most.

There are more than 90 known tombs here, all built from 1292–1075 BC. Tombs open and close on a rotational basis for preservation’s sake, and our first stop is the tomb of Nefertari, the first and most beloved wife of Ramses II. Only reopened in 1995 after many years of restoration, the tomb requires an extra ticket, but it’s well worth it. Built around 1250 BC and covered from floor-to-ceiling in stunning hieroglyphs that look as though they were painted yesterday, this breathtaking underground space offers an astonishing level of artisanship.

After the Queens, we’re off to visit the Kings, who occupy a far more impressive valley (who’s surprised?). There are 63 known tombs here, built between 1539–1075 BC, also open on a rotational basis. We’ve got to take a tram up to the tombs, where our ticket includes visits to three of them—we’ve chosen those of Ramses I, Ramses III, and Merenptah, Ramses II’s 13^th son and successor—each of which consists of a long, sloping corridor descending downward and carved through solid limestone, terminating in the burial chamber itself. Upper chambers along the way would have held items the king would need in the afterlife, including such modern-day essentials as beer and wine. It’s hard to describe the scope of each tomb, each long hallway covered in elaborate, colored hieroglyphs, each ending in an enormous sarcophagus that would have held the Pharoah’s mummy.

The rest of our second day is spent touring the spectacular mortuary temple of Hatshepsut, one of a few female Pharaohs. Carved into sheer cliffs, it’s three terraces are like nothing else we’ve seen—or will see—anywhere else on the trip. After two (very) full days in Luxor, the next morning brings an early departure to our next stop: Aswan.

Edfu and Kom Ombo

Our trip becomes somewhat of a whirlwind at this point, which I suppose is to be expected when you try to take in 5,000 years of history in a week. Though there’s a bypass road from Luxor to Aswan in the far south, we take the scenic route, hugging the Nile Valley all the way. Both Julie and I continually marvel at the scope of a civilization that was confined to this tiny strip of fertile land on either side of a vast desert.

On the way, we stop at two more temples. Edfu Temple, dedicated to Horus, the falcon-headed god and son of Isis and Osiris, was built from 237–57 BC, relatively new by comparison to the tombs and temples we’ve just seen. It fell into disrepair and spent many centuries covered by sand until rediscovery in 1813 by French Egyptologist Auguste Mariette.

Our next stop is Kom Ombo, which means “Hill of Gold,” constructed from 205–180 BC. This temple is unique due to its double design, with two sets of courts, halls, sanctuaries, and rooms, each meant for worship of a different god—the crocodile deity Sobek and Horus, once again. And, speaking of crocodiles, we stop into an absolute can’t miss here—the Crocodile Museum, filled with the mummified bodies of 22 enormous Nile crocodiles. Because they represented a physical manifestation of Sobek, live crocodiles were often worshiped and cared for by priests and, after they died, their bodies would be mummified.

Aswan

“They’ll take you to a garden; that’s enough temples for today,” says Nermeen upon arrival in Aswan. We’re meeting our next guide, Galal Kayed, at the Mövenpick Aswan on Elephantine Island, our luxurious hotel for (unfortunately) just the one night. After stashing our bags in our Nile-view room, we hop on board a felucca for what proves to be one of the trip’s most relaxing afternoons. Our first stop is the Aswan Botanical Garden, which occupies Kitchener’s Island to the west of Elephantine. Both islands float in the middle of the river, with greater Aswan to the east. Just as in Luxor, the city is built on the east bank of the Nile, as the western side was reserved for the dead.

After a slow stroll through the 16-acre garden, featuring plants from around the world, we board the felucca once again for a several-hour cruise on the Nile. It’s just us, Galal, a boat captain, and his assistant on the boat and, as the sun starts to set while we sip our tea and drift with the wind, Galal, who’s been a guide since 2007, tells us a bit about Aswan.

Most famous as the location of the Aswan High Dam, construction of which created the enormous reservoir Lake Nasser, the city itself is home to several can’t-miss sites, including the Unfinished Obelisk—one of Hatshepsut’s—and the Philae Temple complex, originally on Philae Island, but dismantled piece by piece and moved to nearby Agilkia Island to preserve it from being flooded when the dam was completed in 1970. Unfortunately, we do miss them both—and everything else in Aswan, aside from a very quick visit to the Dam—because of travel snafus the next day. We do, however, make it to Abu Simbel, which I’m thankful that Julie was intent on including in our itinerary.

Abu Simbel

Construction of the Aswan High Dam in the 1960s and 70s threatened quite a few ancient Egyptian monuments with submersion, including the astonishing pair of temples at Abu Simbel, built in 1244 BC. To reach this isolated site, we’ve got to be at the Aswan airport early—like 5 am early. We’re to fly to Abu Simbel, 174 miles (280 km) south, visit the temples for several hours, return the same day, tour Aswan, and then fly to Cairo that same night. But, as is common in travel, the day does not go according to plan, and our flight to Abu Simbel is so severely delayed that we miss our entire day in Aswan. Nonetheless, we’re both gob smacked by the temples when we do arrive, albeit several hours late.

Just as at Philae, the temples at Abu Simbel weren’t originally located here, on the shore of Lake Nasser, but rather in a valley that was flooded when the High Dam was completed. These temples—the larger of the two dedicated to Ramses II and the smaller to his queen Nefertari—were relocated starting in 1964, piece by piece, over 200 feet (65 m) higher up and 650 feet (200 m) further inland. And because the temples were originally carved straight into a cliff, and not constructed of pieces of stone, the rock above the temple roofs had to be peeled off to gain access. Then, each temple was carefully sawed into enormous blocks, each weighing between 20 and 30 tons—over 1,000 of them. Each numbered piece was meticulously put back into place, at exactly the same alignment to the sun as the original so that its rays would still illuminate the interior statues as before.

Today, a visit to Abu Simbel is almost as much about the sheer magnificence of the engineering feat that got it here as about the magnificence of the temples—almost. Ramses’ enormous temple is flanked by four colossal depictions of himself, each measuring 65 feet (20 m) high. Inside are more towering statues of the Pharoah and walls covered in intricate hieroglyphs, depicting his glorious military victories. The smaller temple on the site features four statues of Ramses and two of Nefertari, still enormous at around 30 feet tall (10 m). Simpler than the main temple, this one still holds impressive depictions of the queen’s coronation by two ancient goddesses, as well as ubiquitous hieroglyphs and carved scenes. After taking our time, and many pictures, we head back to the airport and, after a quick trip to the top of the Aswan High Dam, we’re on the way to Cairo for the final leg of our trip.

Cairo

“If you want to drive in Cairo, you need three things—a good horn, good brakes…and good luck.” Our guide for the next two days, Ereny George is not wrong. She and our driver meet us the next morning at our downtown hotel, the Ramses Hilton for our visit to the trip’s main event: the Pyramids of Giza. After the relative quiet of Luxor and Aswan, the cacophony of Cairo, a pulsing city of 21.7 million people, is astonishing to the senses—car horns beep 24/7; there seem to be no actual lanes of traffic; and there are people everywhere, all the time.

Here, just as in other Egyptian cities, the dead were buried on the western bank, so that’s where we’re headed. Giza today is an enormous city in its own right, contributing just over 8 million people to Cairo’s total population. But, even surrounded by so much modernity, the first glimpse of the pyramids from the car is truly breathtaking. It’s a strange feeling to see something in person, finally, that you’ve seen depicted so many times in art, movies, books, and popular culture. We’re here relatively early in the morning and in the shoulder season, so it’s not overly crowded when we disembark the car, already snapping pictures before we’re even through the entrance gate. There are three well-known pyramids on the Giza Plateau—The Great Pyramid of Giza, also known as the Khufu Pyramid or Cheops Pyramid for the king formerly buried within; the pyramid of Khafre; and the pyramid of Menkaure, also named for the kings they entombed. Though these three are by far the most famous, Ereny tells us there are over 130 pyramids in Egypt, with nine at the Giza Plateau plus the remains of 10 more.

“Do you know how many blocks are in the Great Pyramid? I’ll give you time to count,” says Ereny as we approach the entrance. The answer, she quickly shares, is 2.3 million, and the towering structure took a little over 20 years to build.

The Great Pyramid originally stood 481 feet (146 m) tall and was covered in smooth, white limestone over the now jagged-looking bricks. As it eroded, the pyramid’s height fell to a still astounding 454 feet (138 m), especially when one considers that this was all done by hand. Even more mind-boggling are the pyramid’s ages—built in the 26^th and 25^th centuries BC (roughly 2,600 BC–2,400 BC), these structures predate the first construction at Karnak Temple in Luxor, which was begun around 1971 BC, by over 600 years.

Though visitors have long been disallowed from climbing the outside of the pyramids, they can go inside all three; and we’ve opted for the Great Pyramid. Entrance is through a hole on the pyramid’s north face and, after a short walk through a tunnel, we’ve got to walk up a steeply slanted, extremely hot, extremely claustrophobic ramp through the Grand Gallery, less than 7 feet wide, over 150 feet long, and around 30 feet high. The long ramp leads—slightly anti-climatically—to the King’s Chamber, holding only an empty granite sarcophagus. That said, just knowing we’re climbing inside the only one remaining of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World is thrill enough.

After our climb, it’s off to see the Great Sphinx of Giza, whose nose-less visage is just as famous as the pyramids themselves. Carved around 2,500 BC of solid limestone with the head of a human and the body of a lion, the Sphinx seems to represent the Pharoah Khafre. After the Giza burial site was abandoned, the remarkable statue spent many years buried up to it shoulders in sand. The first excavation attempt took place around 1,400 BC, but incredibly the full statue wasn’t excavated entirely until the 1930s.

With visits to the Giza pyramids and the Sphinx behind us, we spend the next day visiting the Egyptian Museum—a landmark in its own right—in downtown Cairo. Built in 1902, it now houses many of the treasures found in King Tutankhamen’s tomb, innumerable mummies, papyrus, ancient statues, sarcophagi, jewelry, and more. Two hours there barely scratches the surface, and although many of the museum’s pieces have already been moved to the as yet unopened Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) on the Giza Plateau, we don’t feel their absence in the still jam-packed museum.

Our final stop in Cairo is the Khan el-Khalili souk in the historic center of the city, which has functioned as a center of trade for the city at least since the 14^th century. Today, it functions as the kind of place that tourists happily haggle with local shopkeepers for souvenirs of their trip.

Ereny drops us off at the entrance, and we spend several hours perusing the hundreds of stalls, selling everything from pyramid keychains to one-of-a-kind artisanal souvenirs.

Though neither Julie nor I leave with a keychain, we’re both pleased with our purchases as we prepare to head home. Visiting Egypt has been such a remarkable cultural immersion and thrill for the senses, yet we’ve only scratched the slightest surface of this truly spectacular place. We both agree that another visit may be in order once the GEM opens and, in any case, I know I’ll be back—I should have bought that pyramid keychain when I had the chance.

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Boat Sweet Boat

“We want you to feel at home on this trip, so please treat this like your mother’s sofa.” I’m sitting on one of three large, comfy sectionals in the lounge with dive guide Amr Ibrahim of the MV Grand Sea Explorer on my first day. After an unplanned arrival at 4:30 am that same morning thanks to severely delayed flights, I’ve slept through the boat briefing and check-out dive, and am now receiving a personalized introduction to the boat and dive procedures. Everything onboard the luxurious, 142-foot (43 m) ship is much as on other liveaboards—our general itinerary will be “dive, eat, sleep.”

There’s a bar and open-air gathering area on the second deck where we’ll spend lots of time discussing the day’s dives, and a fly deck above that, where those who’ve come looking for a tan can sunbathe. Divers will choose a station on the spacious dive deck and remain in the same spot all week, with several eager deckhands ready to assist at every turn. Each day, save the last, will feature three dives, and on this, the B-D-E itinerary, we’ll visit the big three: the Brothers, Daedalus, and Elphinstone reefs, beginning with Big Brother the next day.

As the morning wears on, I meet the rest of the guests. Though the boat can hold up to 28 divers, there are 20 onboard this week, hailing from nearly as many countries—Germany, the U.K., Finland, Switzerland, South Africa, Australia, and more, though I’m the only American. My South African dive buddy, Bruce, and I gear up for his second, my first, dive of the trip at Gotta Abu Ramada (the Aquarium) to check gear and buoyancy. Though uneventful (i.e., no longies), the lovely site lives up to its name and we spot tons of huge moray eels, lionfish, trevallies, clownfish, and a blue-spotted ray.

After the check-out dives, all dives will follow roughly the same procedure. Divers are split into groups A and B, each numbering 10. Amr and the other dive guide, Ahmed Fouad, will take turns guiding each group, with most of the diving done via RIBs, though we will jump off the back of the boat on several occasions. All three sites we’re visiting are famous for current, so the guide will back-roll into the water first, check which way it’s flowing, and signal the all-clear. On a countdown of three, we’ll all back-roll into the water too, conducting negative entries each time.

But first—dinner, which does not disappoint. As I make a return trip to the abundant buffet, my dreams of dropping those last few stubborn Covid pounds slip away. With a full tummy, I head downstairs to my cabin, hoping for a solid night’s sleep on the overnight trip to the Brothers, a journey of roughly seven hours, or 70 miles, from port in Hurghada. 

The Brothers

In giddy anticipation, I’ve set my phone alarm for our first dive day at Big Brother, but I needn’t have worried—each day begins the same way. At 6 am sharp, Amr comes downstairs and sing-songs “wakey, wakey, happy divers, good morning,” to roust us out of bed. After a quick cup of coffee, Ahmed delivers the briefing at 6:30, as he will every day, for a 7 am dive. Renowned among divers, the small, barren islands of Big and Little Brother are reachable only by liveaboard, sitting around 40 miles (64 km) from shore. Both narrow, teardrop-shaped islands rise with sheer, vertical walls from the depths with nothing surrounding them but open water.

On Big Brother, a lighthouse has stood watch since 1883 to protect ships from the reef below, manned with four keepers who trade out shifts every 60 days. Unfortunately for the Numidia, which sank in 1901, and the Aida, which sank in 1957, the reef won. After two wall dives, featuring an insistent current, spectacular coral, and teeming fish life, we drop in on the Numidia for dive No. 3, and it’s by far my favorite. This huge British cargo ship was on only its second journey when it hit the reef with no loss of life, not 400 yards from the lighthouse. Now, it’s lying nearly vertical, cemented to the coral starting in around 65 feet (20 m) and extending all the way down to 246 feet (75 m).

Though we don’t penetrate the structure, the visibility is great—at least 80 feet (25 m)—and the metal surfaces are carpeted with soft coral, gleaming in the sunlight. Orange anthias swarm over the entire scene, and we all take turns posing with various parts of the now rainbow-colored metal as backdrop. On our leisurely swim back to the boat we fin over acres of coral inhabited by hunting lionfish and hordes of busy reef fish going about their lives and pass the engine block of the ill-fated Aida in about 25 feet (8 m) of water.

That evening, after another delicious dinner, we’re all in for a treat, as two whale sharks appear off the boat’s port side. They’re making lazy laps between our boat and the one anchored parallel to us about 200 feet (60 m) away, using our lights to hunt the inky ocean waters for dinner. And, as if to taunt us, a longie shows up too, slicing through the water sinuously near the back of the boat. Though we’re hopeful to see them underwater the next day at Little Brother, it’s not meant to be, and after three lovely—but sharkless—dives there, we motor on to our second stop: Daedalus reef.

Daedalus

I don’t always skip a dive, but when I do, it’s the best one of the trip. On our second dive at Daedalus, I’m feeling tired—a bit lazy if I’m honest—and we hadn’t seen much on the first dive. And, just like a newbie who hasn’t yet learned the lesson that the ocean can withhold one minute and deliver spectacularly the next, I skip the dive. And what a dive it turns out to be—at least according to my boat mates. Graced with both a manta ray sighting and school of hammerheads, everyone else is giddy when they get back on the boat. As Ahmed has said each day, “One percent luck is better than 100 percent experience.” Turns out I should have listened.

We’d arrived at Daedalus in the early morning hours, after a 10-hour, overnight boat ride. Sitting smack-dab in the middle of the Red Sea 46 miles (74 km) from shore, it’s another small, uninhabited island save for those manning another lighthouse, built here in 1863 and rebuilt in 1931. Just like the Brothers, it’s only reachable by liveaboard, and features similar underwater topography—sheer, coral-covered walls dropping off to the depths, with a 165-foot-wide (50 m) plateau starting in 80 feet (25 m) of water. This, of course, is the best place to see sharks. Which I don’t. Nonetheless, our third dive is lovely.

The current here, just as at Brothers, typically runs north to south and splits when it hits the wall. We’d planned to drop in on the Red Sea’s biggest anemone city, which clings to the wall on the western side of the island in around 30 feet (10 m), say hi to the Nemos, and turn right, keeping the reef to our left shoulder all the way back to the boat. Instead, after snapping a few pics with the obliging clownfish, our intrepid guide Ahmed turns us left, allowing us to drift with the current nearly all the way up the side of the island to its point.

Though there are plenty of other liveaboards at Daedalus and lots of bubbles in the water, we blissfully see no one on our dive, save for the turtles, napoleon wrasse, tuna, and jacks that swirl in abundance. After dinner, it’s another overnight journey of around seven hours to our final destination: Elphinstone, and our last hope to see longies in the water.

Elphinstone

Running north-south, the cigar-shaped Elphinstone reef is entirely submerged, save for a few breakers at the surface. It sits around five miles offshore, 18 miles (30 km) south of Port Ghalib and 18 miles (30 km) north of Marsa Alam, making it a popular day-boat destination, as well as a liveaboard mainstay. Just as at Brothers and Daedalus, its plunging walls are covered in coral and reef fish, but never mind that—we’re here to see sharks. We’ve got three dives to do it, and the anticipation on the boat is palpable. After Ahmed’s briefing, everyone gears up excitedly and boards the RIBs. We’ll motor up the east side of the island for the first morning’s dive, past all the other boats at mooring, and try to swim out to the plateau to look for sharks.

On the count of three, we back-roll into the water, but the current is not our friend, preventing us from reaching the plateau and instead gently insisting that we drift along the wall back to our boat. After an uneventful 40 minutes or so, we’re nearing the other moored boats and we see a crowd of divers under one in particular. Then Ahmed spots it—a juvenile longimanus, doing figure eights around the group. We hang out in the water for a bit, entranced, as we drift back to our boat. Along the way we spot two more of these unmistakable sharks, with their clear, searching eyes and bright white patches at the tips of their pectoral, dorsal, and caudal fins.

The group surfaces, giddy after seeing the longies, but the best dive is yet to come. Oceanic whitetips often hang out right underneath the boats at Elphinstone, so on our second dive, after a brief foray out to the plateau, we turn and head back to the boat to wait and see who shows up. All 20 divers from our boat are here, and we’ve been told in our longie briefing to stay together as a group in about 20 to 30 feet (6 to 10 m) of water, and to watch all directions—in front of us, behind, left, right, and especially from below. Known for their fearlessness and curiosity, longies often approach divers directly, only veering aside at the last second.

When they materialize out of the blue, we’re all pointing and shouting excitedly into our regulators—though that may just be me. Three separate sharks appear during our dive, each roughly 6 feet (2 m) long. They approach the photographer in our group, bumping off his dome port, perhaps curious about the reflection of themselves they see in the shiny apparatus. In total, we spend 52 minutes with the sharks, as they grow ever nearer and bolder in their examination of us. One comes up beneath me and takes a quick nibble on the weights dangling from a line beneath the boat, and I inch back ever so slightly.

A particularly curious shark takes an interest in one of our divers and, after it comes just a bit too close for comfort, our time with the longimanus is over. As I surface, I’m left with a feeling of both exhilaration and respect for these animals that we were all so anxious to see. In our excitement, it’s easy to forget that these are apex predators. They don’t care how many dives we’ve had, or that we just need to get the right angle for the right shot, or that we’ve traveled across the world to see them. Reverence is due, and that’s what I’m left with as we pull anchor and motor toward the last dive sites of the trip near Hurghada, where we’ll disembark the day after next.

Epilogue

And what a gift our last dives are, at an island aptly named Small Giftun. Two more drift dives are in store, both starting in around 100 feet (30 m) and gradually leveling up into a stunning, sun-dappled coral garden. We drift over an enormous stand of gorgonian fans, and the light’s rays pierce through the healthy fields of hard coral while the soft coral sways in the current. It’s an explosion of life and color, with schooling fusiliers, anthias, moray eels, and a blue-spotted stingray all swimming by to say hi. Though I don’t see a single shark on these two dives, they stand among my favorite of the entire trip. And so maybe I’ll learn my lesson this time—nature often offers treasure where you least expect it. I may have come to Egypt for one thing, but the Red Sea gave so much more.

Make it Happen

The MV Grand Sea Explorer operates in Egypt as M/Y Sea Serpent Grand and conducts both northern and southern itineraries. At 142 feet (43 m) long, the spacious ship can accommodate 22 to 28 divers in 14 state rooms, with two suites, two double cabins, and 10 twin cabins.

There are two itineraries, both departing from Hurghada, though occasionally from Port Ghalib. For ease of arrival—and luckily in case of delayed flights—the boat spends the first night in the marina at Hurghada, departing around 7 am each Friday. The North & Brothers itinerary features greatest hits like the Thistlegorm, Ras Mohamed National Park, the Brothers, and Abu Nuhas. The B-D-E itinerary is just as it’s named, covering the big three: the Brothers, Daedalus, and Elphinstone.

Although the boats operate year-round, September, October, and November make for particularly appealing diving as the air and water are a bit cooler and its prime oceanic season. High season runs from March through May.

Divers on the MV Grand Sea Explorer can expect one guide for every 8 to 10 divers, depending on how many passengers are on board. Nitrox fills are free, so it’s best to be certified far in advance. Because most of the dive sites are conducted on walls with the possibility of strong currents, the Red Sea is best suited to divers with some experience.

All underwater images courtesy of Daniel Gut

M/Y Sea Serpent Grand/MV Grand Sea Explorer images courtesy of Explorer Ventures

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Whale Watching 

After learning all about the baleen and toothed whales in Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary online, you’re excited to get out there and see your first whale. Your parents are just as excited as you—it’s really nice to see them relax and enjoy a vacation. After boarding the whale-watching boat, you try to find the best spot to sit so you can get a good view of the water and also hear the on-board naturalist explain where you are going and which animals you may encounter.

As the day grows longer, you’re getting tired from the sun and a little queasy, but there must be a whale coming soon. You came all the way from Oklahoma for this after all! Just as you start daydreaming while staring off to the horizon, a humpback breaches right in front of you, jumping clear out of the water and landing with a massive splash. “How can an animal be that big?” you think to yourself. Your family walks over to the port side of the boat to get a closer look and you get your camera ready, hoping to capture some of the action.

The whale is at the surface again, this time it looks like it is almost floating on its back with both pectoral fins up in the air—then splash—it slaps one of of its fins on the water. You hear the naturalist explain that this “flippering” behavior may be a way of cooling off, or perhaps a form of whale communication. How cool! You got a great photo of the whale and plan to enter the Get Into Your Sanctuary photo contest. You can’t wait to share this story with your friends!

Diving Monterey Bay

It’s a chilly morning, about 46 F, and you’re already thinking about how great the hot chocolate in your thermos is going to taste when the dive is over. You can’t wait to get your thermal layers and drysuit on so you can stay warm and get in the water. You double-check your dive gear and get your camera ready to explore nearshore kelp forests in Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary. As you seal your camera’s housing, you get a flash of excitement thinking about the last time you dove here and got that unforgettable photo of a Limacia cockerelli nudibranch with those brilliant orange colors. This time, you’re using your wide-angle lens, and are hoping to capture how the sunlight dances through the kelp forest.

After a final buddy check and dive site overview, your friend hands you the dive flag and you head over to the beach to get in. Who knows what will happen—you might just have a relaxing dive through towering sunlit kelp stands with colorful sea stars, or you might encounter a herd of playful sea lions. It’s time to find out!

Exploring Mallows Bay-Potomac River

You have a three-day weekend and are ready to get out of the city for a bit, and decide to head to Mallows Bay-Potomac River National Marine Sanctuary for a camping/kayaking trip with some old college buddies. After logging out of your last meeting on Friday, you rush to grab your hiking pack, fill up your canteen, and call to confirm the campsite and kayak reservations. It’s been a while since you’ve seen your college friends, at least two years since you’ve been camping, and it’s your first time kayaking.

After catching up with friends and recounting all of your old inside jokes, you set up camp at Smallwood State Park and spend the evening roasting marshmallows and telling ghost stories. In the morning, the group heads over to paddle around the Mallows Bay Ghost Fleet. There’s a light mist over the water, but as the sun gets higher in the sky, the mist disappears and it’s a beautiful day. As you get closer to one of the wooden ships, a bald eagle swoops down in front of your kayak and catches a fish with its impressive talons.

Tide pool Treasure at Olympic Coast

You walk down to your local recreation center to meet up with a few neighbors and play shuffleboard. As you pass the pool house in your retirement community, you see a beautiful seashell in the window. Suddenly, it’s as though you can hear the swooshing sound of the ocean and smell the sea air, and it reminds you of the time your mother took you to the beach to explore tide pools when you were a young girl. You feel a rush of excitement, and this feeling sticks with you all day. After closing out the final shuffleboard match, you head home and decide to start making some plans. In two weeks, you’re heading out to Washington to see the tide pools at Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary!

After walking down a sandy beach path onto the rocky coast, you feel the chill of the Pacific Ocean through your water shoes. You look around and see so many colorful critters hiding in between the rocks, and blanketing the pockets in the tide pools where the water sits at low tide. There are sea stars, sea urchins, limpets, and even a few small crabs. While staring out at the unforgettable rocky seascape, you hear a squeal of excitement and high-pitched laugh. You turn around and see a young child also exploring the tide pools, and it reminds you of when you were younger and first came here.

Adventure Awaits

Being adventuresome is all about embracing the unknown, in whichever form that takes. So pack the car or book your tickets, get your kids pumped up (or not), call your friends to start making plans, or keep it to yourself and enjoy a little solitude. No matter how you define a good adventure, there’s something for you in a national marine sanctuary.

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Responsible Wildlife Viewing

If you plan to visit waters within the National Marine Sanctuary system, familiarize yourself with responsible recreation activities available at that location and check out their wildlife viewing guidelines before you head out.

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GUEST POST BY RACHEL PLUNKETT, WRITER/EDITOR FOR NOAA’S OFFICE OF NATIONAL MARINE SANCTUARIES

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Whether you’re a snorkeler, freediver, or scuba dive, everybody loves an ocean encounter with seals—also known as the clowns or puppy dogs of the sea. Luckily, Her are our picks of the top five places to dive with seals and sea lions.

Cape Town, South Africa

Where: Hout Bay

Characteristics: 

Cape Town is home to rocky shorelines, dense kelp forests, and lots of Cape fur seals, living in two protected kelp areas. Duiker Island in Hout Bay is home to a colony of 5,000 Cape fur seals but bring your drysuit— being situated in the Atlantic Ocean, the water temperature can vary between 46 and 50 F (8 to 10 C). Water time can vary from 45 minutes to an hour, but if you need to get out and warm up, the RIB is always nearby to come and pick you up for a bake in the sun. 

Season: The season to dive with seals in South Africa lasts year-round, but the best months fall from September through May.

An extra tip: When the weather conditions are not favorable to dive in Hout Bay it will be favorable to dive in False Bay and vice versa.

New Zealand

Where: Kaikoura 

Characteristics: 

Three hours north of Christchurch is the Kaikoura Peninsula, surrounded by the Kaikoura Range, making for a surreal scene where you can lounge on the beach with snowcapped mountains in the background. This spot is the world’s best for in-water encounters with curious New Zealand fur seals. After a briefing by experienced guides, you will get your gear and jump on a bus, which will take you to the boat. From there, it’s a 10-minute boat ride out to the seals. Spend time with the seals in the water, then watch them lounging and baking on the rocks afterward. Hop in the water and observe the playful seals, then watch them lounge and bake on the rocks. Tours can run up to 2.5 hours.

Season: October through May

California

Where: Monterey

Characteristics:

Sea lions and their smaller, spotted cousins, Pacific harbor seals, are known to play, splash and lounge on the rocks along Breakwater Cove Marina. This spot is particularly suited to scuba, rather than snorkel. Not only does this bay draw sea lions and seals but also the famous—and adorable—sea otters. As a diver, you will do a shore entry and you’ll want to wear at least 7 mm of neoprene or a drysuit as the water temperature can be as cold as 50 F (10 C).

Season: Late May for seals and summer for sea lions

United Kingdom

Where: Farne Islands

Characteristics: 

In the temperate waters of northeast England, you will find the Farne Islands, where boats run charters for divers and snorkelers to interact with the inquisitive gray seals. With a notion to nibble on your fins, these guys will play for hours. Just as you think you may be able to stay a bit longer, the icy 46 F (8 C) water temperature will remind you that it’s time to head back to the boat and warm up with a cozy cup of tea. A 7mm wetsuit or thicker would come highly recommended, but a dry suit will come in even handier.

Season: Late September – October

Canada

Where: Hornby Island

Characteristics:

While seals and sea lions have agility and speed to their advantage, many divers say that the playful and friendly Steller sea lions take the cake on Hornby Island. The average water temperature is 11 C, so a wetsuit with a minimum of 7 mm is necessary for both snorkelers and scuba divers though—again— you’ll be more comfortable in a drysuit for an encounter with these playful animals.

Season: December through March

STORY BY MONIQUE SCHOUTEN

The post Five Places to Dive with Seals and Sea Lions appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.

What can you see?

Scuba diving in Antarctica offers plenty to see, with lots of biodiversity. Antarctic waters hold an abundance of krill, which attracts other marine life. Divers can see:

• Unique varieties of kelp, including kelp walls
• Sea snails
• Jellyfish
• Sea butterflies
• Starfish
• Sea-hedgehogs (urchins)
• A variety of crabs 
• Anemones
• Soft coral
• Sea squirts
• Squat lobsters
• Peacock worms
• Dogfish
• Shrubby horse-tails

Divers may also see some of the charismatic animals the continent is so famous for—fur seals, penguins, and leopard seals. Walrus spotting is best done from the boat or with snorkel gear—diving with them is ill-advised as they can get aggressive.

Dive qualification and experience

Diving in Antarctica is not for beginners. Divers must have experience with cold-water diving and at least 30 dives with a drysuit. Further, you will have to present your internationally recognized dive qualification, copies of your dive logs, and a medical clearance before you can get into the water. Divers must also do a check-dive to get used to the cold water and establish how many weights they need. 

Risks of scuba diving in Antarctica

Scuba diving inherently involves some risks. That said, there are a few additional things to consider when planning your diving in Antarctica. 

The dive sites are remote, and decompression chambers are far away. Divers are cautioned against deep dives.

Divers should be aware of and always stay oriented to safe exit points during their dives. Ice continually moves and shifts, and thus entry and exit points could move along with it. 

Equipment

Diving in Antarctica requires specialized equipment. This includes an extensive list:

• A drysuit with a hood and two sets of thick undergarments
• Dry gloves or thick wet gloves
• Two sets of freeze-protected or environmentally sealed regulators. This includes first and second stages. Some dive concessions use two regulators on one tank. One set will be your primary, with the second set as a back-up on each dive.
• A quick-release BCD
• Depth gauge plus a watch or computer
• Compass
• Air-pressure gauge—one for each regulator set-up
• Knife
• A flashlight
• Mask, fins, and a snorkel. A spare mask and straps are recommended.
• Weight belt—the weights are provided onboard.
• Spare parts, including spares for your regulator and drysuit
• Commercial defogging agents for your mask. Spit can freeze onto the inside of your mask.

When to go

The dive season is in the southern summer, between November and March. This is when wildlife is most active. 

During November and December, phytoplankton burst to life in areas where there are mineral upwellings. This brings in masses of krill, which then brings in larger marine animals. During this time, you could see crabeater seals, elephant seals, humpback, minke, and southern right whales, and penguins. In December, you can witness the midnight sun above water.

During February and March, divers could see fur seals and leopard seals and penguins. Whale watching is especially excellent during this time, and there is the chance to see the Aurora Australis and green and pink algae blooms on the ice cliffs and snow slopes.

Diving conditions

The water temperature averages a frigid 28 to 36 F (-2 to 2 C) and visibility can be up to 985 feet (300 m). The average maximum dive depth is around 60 feet (20 m), and dives are done from shore or off a zodiac, including shallow ice diving and wall diving. Divers usually do two dives per day, depending on the weather and ice conditions.

Most dives in Antarctica are based on the buddy system. Dive guides generally stay on the boat, acting as spotters and checking divers in and out of the water.

Getting there

Most expeditions to Antarctica depart from the southernmost city in the world, Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego in Argentina.

Scuba diving in Antarctica is more an expedition than a dive trip. The conditions are far removed from tropical diving, but it is also an experience that few will ever have. The cold water and clear visibility, along with abundant marine life and the sheer adventure of getting there make for a truly once-in-a-lifetime trip.

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Cozumel

Cozumel is the largest island in the Mexican Caribbean and a world-famous dive destination with coral reefs full of life. With dive sites suitable for novices to experienced divers, it’s the perfect destination to get back in the water post-pandemic.

Covid entry requirements

• There are no Covid entry requirements for people traveling to Mexico.
• Most resorts ask guests to fill out a health questionnaire.

What makes Cozumel great for getting back into diving?

Cozumel offers stunning diving in clear, turquoise waters that are warm all year. There are a multitude of dive sites just off the coast, with abundant reefs and a variety of dive types available.

What to expect when you get there

Cozumel is very quiet at the moment and has numerous topside highlights to explore on your non-diving days. There are traditional towns, historic ruins, and theme parks for families, plus white-sand beaches, beach bars, and restaurants.

Diving in Cozumel

Boasting the second-largest reef system in the world, Cozumel has exceptional coral reef diving and an astonishing diversity of marine life, including numerous sea turtles and vibrant reef fish.

Cozumel’s top dive sites for beginners include Columbia Reef and Chankanaab Reef, both of which have beautiful, sunlit corals in clear, shallow waters with gentle currents. More experienced divers will enjoy Cozumel’s thrilling drift dives, including at Punta Tunich, and the huge 100-foot-high (30 m) wall and coral pillars at Colombia Wall.

Bonaire

If you love exploring at your own pace and self-guided diving, Bonaire is for you. This relaxed, slow-paced island lacks large chain hotels and has dozens of well-preserved local dive sites just a few steps offshore.

Covid entry requirements

• There are no Covid entry requirements for people traveling to Bonaire. 

What makes Bonaire great for getting back into diving?

Bonaire is the shore-diving capital of the world and offers easy, accessible reef diving that provides a gentle reintroduction to the underwater world. With an arid climate and little rainfall, diving in Bonaire is excellent all year and the waters are extremely clear.

What to expect when you get there

Bonaire is a small island, but it has plenty of wild spaces, including a vast desert landscape, so it rarely feels crowded. That said, Bonaire’s restaurants can get busy, so book in advance.

There are plenty of adventure sports available, including caving, sea kayaking, hiking, windsurfing, and mountain biking, plus 22 gorgeous beaches.

Diving in Bonaire

Bonaire is all about reef and wreck shore diving, so rent a car and explore the dozens of dive sites at your feet. Salt Pier is an easy shore dive with pillars covered in soft and hard corals. Bari Reef is an excellent night dive for macro fans, and Karpata is a good place to spot pelagics in the blue. The famous Hilma Hooker wreck is one of Bonaire’s most popular dives, and you can explore this impressive wreck as a self-guided dive from shore.

Belize

With over 400 islands and 240 miles of Caribbean coastline, Belize is an incredible dive destination. It is home to some of the world’s best dive sites and the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Belize Barrier Reef. What more could you need to get back into diving?

Covid entry requirements

• There are no Covid entry requirements for people traveling to Belize.
• Purchasing Belize Travel Insurance is no longer mandatory but it is highly recommended by the Belize Tourism Board.

What makes Belize great for getting back into diving

Belize hosts a diverse array of reefs that provide idyllic reef diving for novices right through to experienced divers. Belize’s waters are warm all year and you can enjoy a mixture of land-based and liveaboard diving there.

What to expect when you get there

Belize is popular with U.S. visitors, so book ahead during public and school holidays. Once there, you can go jungle walking and bird watching, explore Mayan ruins, and enjoy Belize’s mouth-watering cuisine. And if that’s too much effort, just relax on Belize’s golden and white-sand beaches.

Diving in Belize

The Belize Barrier Reef is one of the most biodiverse ecosystems in the world, boasting three turtle species, hundreds of reef fish species, pelagic fish, whale sharks, and hundreds of corals and sponges.

Ambergris Caye has over 40 accessible dive sites dotted along its shores, and it is a good place to base yourself to explore Belize’s other top dive highlights: the Great Blue Hole, Lighthouse Reef, and Hol Chan Marine Reserve.

Turneffe Atoll is another top place to enjoy all that Belize scuba diving has to offer. This atoll has over 200 cayes, with diverse underwater landscapes, including huge walls covered in corals. There are ripping currents for experienced divers, shallow aquarium-like dive sites, and plenty of pelagic action.

Florida Keys 

If you are looking for somewhere closer to home, try the Florida Keys. It’s a wreck diving mecca, with plenty of coral reefs as well. And if you live nearby, you can get your diving fix over the weekend.

Covid entry requirements

• There are no Covid entry requirements for people traveling to the Florida Keys.

What makes the Florida Keys great for getting back into diving?

As well as being accessible, with no need to go overseas, the Florida Keys have consistently warm waters, plenty of sunshine, and varied diving that offers something for all divers.

What to expect when you get there

 This is a popular U.S. vacation spot, so be sure to book ahead. Once there, you can enjoy plenty of topside highlights, including gorgeous beaches, charter fishing, art galleries, museums, spas, and a fine-dining scene.

 Diving in the Florida Keys

The Florida Keys has the only living coral barrier reef in the continental United States and is also home to the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. There are endless reefs, seagrass fields, sandbars, islands, and extensive mangroves to explore, with over 6,000 marine species, including manatees.

Added to that, the Florida Keys has epic wreck diving. There is a shipwreck trail with nine historic wrecks, and an estimated 1,000 shipwrecks in total. If you love rust, diving in Florida is hard to beat.

The Bahamas

The Bahamas is one of the easiest destinations to access from the U.S., being just a short flight away. Famed for its shark diving, it ticks the boxes for shark fans who want a world-class dive trip without traveling far.

Covid entry requirements

• Vaccinated travelers must provide proof of vaccination.
• Unvaccinated travelers (aged 2 and older) need to show proof of a negative PCR or rapid antigen test taken no more than 72 hours prior to travel.

What makes the Bahamas great for getting back into diving?

Warm weather, a multitude of islands, and water that rarely drops below 80 F (27 C) is enough to tempt anyone to visit the Bahamas. Below the surface, there are colorful reefs and crystal-clear waters that host an abundance of sharks.

What to expect when you get there

Unsurprisingly, the Bahamas continues to be one of the most popular destinations for Americans. These stunning islands have an endless list of topside activities that cater for just about every interest, making it perfect for families and group trips.

Diving in the Bahamas

The Bahamas has been a designated shark sanctuary since 2011 and has exceptional shark diving. Visit Tiger Beach to dive with numerous tiger sharks in warm, shallow waters, then hop over to Bimini for diving with great hammerheads. Alternatively, Cat Island offers swimming with oceanic whitetips.

If shark diving isn’t your thing, try the Exuma Cays and Eleuthera. There, you can dive the famous Austin Smith wreck, experience a unique current dive called the Washing Machine, and drift over beautiful reefs all day long.

Kathryn Curzon, a shark conservationist and dive travel writer for SSI (Scuba Schools International), wrote this article.

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What is blackwater diving?

Most marine creatures begin life in the open ocean and live a pelagic existence before they can fend for themselves and settle down on the reef. Every night, attracted by the moonlight, they rise from the depths to feed in shallower water. Blackwater diving allows us to observe these unique species during night dives that utilize powerful artificial lights, tethered to dedicated mooring lines hanging above very deep waters, with the goal of attracting sea life that’s traveling up the water column to feed.

What will you see?

Planktonic and juvenile sea species appear most frequently during these special dives and will often be in your sphere of light before you notice their presence—think jellyfish, myriads of squid, tiny octopus, wiggly worms, and iridescent salps. You can sometimes see larger pelagic fish on blackwater dives, but most invertebrates, plankton, and fish that you’ll see are much smaller. In their immature stage, the best subjects showcase large eyes, unique appendages, and iridescent hues mimicking dangerous jellyfish to survive the largest animal migration on the planet.

Blackwater photography

While first-time blackwater divers may initially struggle to identify species, underwater photographers have the added benefit of being able to review photographs after the dive, making comparisons between they captured on film versus established developmental and growth patterns of local species. Blackwater photographers may even end up exchanging information with marine scientists who are eager for more information about these rare sightings. If you are not a photographer, however, there is still so much to see and experience. Divers who enjoy macro or muck diving, with practiced buoyancy and breathing skills, will also find this search for these elusive “baby sea monsters” undeniably alluring.

Blackwater diving in Thailand

Hawaii, Florida, and the Philippines have been the hotspots for this developing dive style, but Thailand has recently become a very promising destination for blackwater diving enthusiasts. 

Blackwater diving in Thailand first started in Koh Tao a few years ago with Dive4photo’s underwater photography school led by Alex Tyrrell, who had just come back from the Philippines. A second “blackwater diving line” was launched near Pattaya, in the Gulf of Thailand by divers from Bangkok, eager to discover this new way of night diving.

The Similan Islands are a well-known diving destination for macro and pelagic life, but we discovered last season that it also offers spectacular blackwater diving. All the photos from this article were taken in Thailand by Franck Fogarolo, the cruise director onboard The Smiling Seahorse, a liveaboard particularly geared towards underwater photographers. On our first blackwater dives, we encountered a juvenile tripod fish, a deep-sea species we had not seen in the last 10 years of diving local reefs, as well as a juvenile sailfish. This season alone, we spotted dozens of paper nautilus, both males and females, who put on quite a show for our camera.

We have also seen juvenile stages of more common Andaman Sea fish, including gastropods, cephalopods, and crustaceans—some smaller than your fingernail.

The Smiling Seahorse is the first liveaboard in Thailand offering blackwater dives on every cruise to explore the larval and juvenile “little monsters” of the Andaman Sea as well as dedicated blackwater diving cruises with daily blackwater dives.

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Far from the resort islands common in the rest of the Maldives, Fulidhoo is much more laid-back, with only a handful of guesthouses. The diving and accommodation around the island are generally more affordable than elsewhere in the Maldives. The island is a little less than half a mile long (700 m) and a little over a tenth of a mile (200 m) wide with between 300 and 400 local inhabitants. It will take you only about 10 minutes to walk around the island. Here are our picks for some of the best dive experiences in Fulidhoo Island.

Dive sites near Fulidhoo Island

Several sites around Fulidhoo make for spectacular night dives. Alimatha is notorious for the hundreds of nurse sharks that typically join divers each night. The dive is usually a drift dive between 16 to 82 feet (5 to 25 m). The sharks hang around an area where local tourism operators used to feed them — the practice ended years ago but the sharks still visit in their masses. For a bonus experience, you can try a fluorescent night dive with special torches.

Miyaru Kandu is better suited for experienced divers, as there can be mild to strong current. The dive starts with a drift along a slanted reef to the channel. Here you can see gray reef and whitetip reef sharks and possibly manta rays. Miyaru Kandu features depths ranging from 33 to 100 feet (10 to 30 m).

Shore diving

Faru Kolhu is a drift dive for all levels of divers. The reef, between 33 to 100 feet (10 to 30 m), is home to sharks, sailfish, schools of tuna, and barracuda. Kunaavashi Kandu is a channel dive with possible strong currents but is still dive-able for divers of all levels. The depth ranges between 16 to 100 feet (5 to 30 m) and you can see schools of gray reef sharks, eagle rays, and sometimes manta rays. An abundance of soft coral attracts many turtles to this reef.

Other sites around Fulidhoo

Fulidhoo Caves lies between (20 to 30 m) and is a relaxed wall dive with many overhangs where macro life hangs out. This site makes a good sunset or night dive.

Endheri Thila is a good reef site to dive year-round. The depth of the reef ranges between (5 to 25 m). Divers may spot turtles, bait fish and fusiliers against the backdrop of black coral covered reefs.

Reefs are usually quiet, with few divers and there are many uncharted areas that you may be able to explore for new dive sites.

Diving seasons

The Maldives has two main seasons, Iruvai and Hulhangu. During the Iruvai season the wind usually blows from the northeast, bringing the best diving conditions. Iruvai is from November to April. Hulhangu is between May and October and brings wind and rain. During this season the visibility around the Maldives is not great, however Fulidhoo Island is situated on the northern tip of the western atolls, which can mean good diving year-round. The water temperature ranges between (27 to 30 C) with visibility between 50 to 130 feet (15 to 40 m).

Fulidhoo is a quiet little island in the Maldives where you can experience the local culture and relaxed island feel. The diving is some of the best that the Maldives has to offer—with the price to match.

All images courtesy of Fulidhoo Dive Maldives

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European divers have long known about the brilliant diving in the Canary Islands, with countless divers descending on the islands each year to enjoy subtropical diving. There are seven main islands in the Canary Group, and all offer good diving, but we settled on Gran Canaria and the town of Arinaga. This small seaside town is located on the eastern side of the island, not far from the airport, and is the gateway to some of the best diving in the Canary Islands, in the El Cabron Marine Reserve.

There are several dive shops in Arinaga, and it’s easy to do daily dives as all the dive sites are accessible from the shore, with either beach or rock entries and exits.

Diving El Cabron Marine Reserve

From the very first dive we could see why El Cabron had been protected as a marine reserve. For a start, there’s a wide variety of terrain to explore, meaning a wide variety of habitats — rocky reefs, caves, gutters, ledges, walls, seagrass, and sand. And secondly, there is a great variety of marine life on show. It has been estimated that over 400 species live in the marine reserve, with a unique mix of species from the Mediterranean, Atlantic, and even from the Caribbean.

Enjoying 50- to 100-foot (15 to 30 m) visibility and 74 F (23 C) water, we did nine dives in the marine reserve in depths from 30 to 100 feet (10 to 30 m). On every dive there were schools of fish — massive swarms of bream, goatfish, and snapper. We encountered these schools of fish in caves, in gutters and even over the sand at dive sites like Table Top, Two Caves, and Playa del Cabron.

Marine Life in El Cabron

On every dive we also encountered groupers, parrotfish, wrasse, damsels, pufferfish, blennies, flounders, soles, glasseyes, lizardfish, razorfish, scorpionfish, morays, and even garden eels. Our personal fishy favorites were the learned rockfish, a type of seabass that has pretty patterns and a very inquisitive nature.

The marine reserve is also home to an impressive range of invertebrate species, including sea cucumbers, sea hares, sea slugs, nudibranchs, sea stars, fireworms, slipper lobsters, arrow crabs and cleaner shrimp. But we were especially impressed by the cephalopods, seeing common octopus mating, African cuttlefish hunting, and strange, white-spotted octopus at night.

However, the thing that most impressed us — and drew us to the Canary Islands in the first place — was the rays and one special shark species. On every dive we saw rays; on the sand and hiding in the caves. Around 10 ray species live in the marine reserve, including varieties of electric rays, eagle rays, butterfly rays and stingrays. We unfortunately only saw stingrays but encountered three different species.

The El Cabron Marine Reserve is also the best place in the Canary Islands to see common angel sharks. Once widespread in the eastern Atlantic, they are now endangered and only common off of Gran Canaria. We only saw one common angel shark during our stay (we were a little out of season as they prefer the cooler, winter waters), but it was a very special encounter as it was a baby, only 8 inches (20 cm) long.

We had a wonderful time diving the El Cabron Marine Reserve, seeing a host of marine life that was completely new to us and enjoying the relaxed Spanish lifestyle on these unique rocky islands off the coast of Africa.

Photos courtesy of Nigel Marsh

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Diving the HMAS Brisbane

In the few short years that the guided missile destroyer HMAS Brisbane has been on the sea floor it has been transformed from a stark, gray navy ship into a colorful artificial reef. Today the 436-foot (133 m) long ship pulsates with marine life and is an unforgettable dive.

Coloring the ship are soft corals, sponges, hard corals, gorgonians, ascidians and anemones. Hiding between these corals are nudibranchs, shrimp, crabs, crayfish, sea stars, flatworms, and lots of octopus.

Reef fish and pelagic fish cruise the decks of the ship, attracted to this oasis in a sea of sand. Divers commonly see batfish, sweetlips, angelfish, moray eels, fusiliers, snapper, kingfish, trevally, mulloway, lionfish, scorpionfish, basslets, pufferfish and rock cod. Several huge Queensland groupers occupy the ship, but generally hang out on the sand when divers visit. Also common are turtles, stingrays, eagle rays and large white-spotted wedgefish. The ship also has seasonal visitors like leopard sharks in summer and gray nurse sharks and humpback whales in winter.

However, it’s not just the marine life that makes HMAS Brisbane such a fascinating dive, but also the ship itself. The ship has dozens of cabins spread over four levels. And, with 30 access holes cut into the hull, there is virtually no part of the ship that can’t be safely explored. Features of the ship include its big, six-inch guns, the operations room, the engine room, the galley, and the crew quarters. HMAS Brisbane rests in 90 feet (28 m), with its deck at 50 feet (15 m). The funnels are at 12 feet (4 m), making this the perfect spot to end a dive on this incredible warship.

Other Sunshine Coast Dive Sites

The Sunshine Coast is located just north of the Queensland capital of Brisbane and directly south of the Great Barrier Reef. The area has beautiful beaches, numerous resorts and, in the hinterland behind the coast, rainforests, mountain retreats, and even a few wineries. Diving this area is done out of the town of Mooloolaba.

While HMAS Brisbane is easily the most famous dive site off the Sunshine Coast, the area also has other dive attractions. The best of these are three large subtropical reefs off Mooloolaba that are known as Inner Gneering Reef, Outer Gneering Reef, and Murphy’s Reef. These reefs vary in depth from 26 feet (8 m) to 110 feet (33 m) and offer exceptional diving on gutters, ledges, caves, and pinnacles. All are covered in such rich coral gardens that divers could easily think they were exploring the Great Barrier Reef. Reef fish and invertebrate species are abundant, especially nudibranchs, with the Sunshine Coast holding the record for the largest variety of species of these colorful sea slugs.

The deeper reefs generally have the more impressive marine life; which can include pelagic fish, stingrays, wobbegongs, turtles and gray nurse sharks over the winter months. There are dozens of dive sites on these reefs, including The Plateau, The Caves, Castle Rock, Wobby Rock, Hanging Rock and The Pinnacles.

Mudjimba Island

There are several other reefs in the area that divers don’t regularly visit, but one brilliant all-weather site is Mudjimba Island. This island doesn’t get the big fish, or the best visibility at times, but it does have lots of small reef fish and many other critters. The rocky reef that skirts the island varies in depth from 10 feet (3 m) to 60 feet (18 m), is decorated with pretty corals, and is home to a great collection of invertebrates. Commonly sights at Mudjimba Island are lionfish, sea stars, hermit crabs, cowries, mantis shrimp, boxfish, gobies, flatworms, boxer shrimps, cuttlefish, octopus, and countless nudibranchs. Mudjimba is also a great place to see turtles, with dozens using the site to feed and rest.

Shore diving is also possible at a number of sites in the area, such as Point Cartwright and Kings Beach. These sites have coral and reef fish that even snorkelers can see, but access to these sites is very weather dependent. The area also has a fabulous muck dive at La Balsa Park, in the Maroochy River. This easy shore dive is only 20 feet (6 m) deep, and the sandy rocky bottom is home to crabs, shrimps, pipefish, cardinalfish, flatworms, lionfish, octopus, pineapplefish, ghost pipefish, scorpionfish, and even the odd frogfish. However, the main feature is nudibranchs—thousands of nudibranchs.

With most of the dive sites close to shore, the visibility off Mooloolaba can be easily affected by wind, rain and swell. The visibility generally averages around 40 feet (12 m) offshore, and 20 feet (6 m) closer to shore but can vary from 10 feet (3 m) to 100 feet (30 m) and is always clearest after southerly winds.

All photos courtesy of the author, NIGEL MARSH

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Where is Madang?

Divers traveling to this wild and exotic country often overlook the scuba diving in Madang, located on the northern coast of the main island. But, located as it is on the shores of a huge lagoon, which is dotted with reefs and pretty islands, Madang offers a wealth of wonderful dive sites.

For our week in Madang, my wife, Helen Rose, and I stayed at the lovely Madang Resort, home of Niugini Dive Adventures. Each day we ventured out to explore dive sites inside and outside the Madang Lagoon.

Dive sites

Inside the lagoon, we dove a World War II plane wreck of a B25 bomber. Shot down in 1943, this American plane rests in 50 to 70 feet (15 to 22 m) and is one of the best-preserved plane wrecks in PNG. Machine guns, the cockpit and other items are on display, while the plane itself is encrusted with pretty corals.

Pretty corals like these are common at all the dive sites in the lagoon, as they flourish in these calm, sheltered waters. At Langsom, we explored a limestone reef covered in gorgonians, soft corals, whip corals, sea whips and sponges. This spot was also home to a good variety of marine life, including reef sharks, stingrays, and a tawny nurse shark. Corals also color the wreck of the Henry Leith, a small cargo ship scuttled in 65 feet (20 m) for divers to enjoy.

At Pig Bay we explored another plane, this one a more modern Cessna scuttled for divers to appreciate. Located on a sandy slope, this dive is a good muck site, with nudibranchs, pipefish, anemonefish and even ornate ghost pipefish. We enjoyed even better muck diving at the Madang Resort jetty. Each afternoon we would jump in to find seahorses, pipefish, cockatoo waspfish, emperor shrimp, mantis shrimp, nudibranchs, demon stingers, and juvenile batfish.

Channel Dives

During our stay we dove three channels that drain the lagoon. The best were Magic Passage and Sek Passage, as both have walls covered in beautiful corals and masses of fish. At these sites we saw barracuda, trevally, reef sharks, fusiliers, sweetlips and snappers. We missed seeing the hammerhead shark our guide spotted, but they are often present in the area.

Madang’s most famous dive site is a seamount located two miles (3 km) offshore, the amazing Planet Rock. Rising from 2,000 to 15 feet (600 to 5 m), this huge mound is covered in hard corals and buzzing with fish and sharks. We saw schools of barracuda, trevally, mackerel, tuna, rainbow runners, groupers, batfish, and gray reef sharks.

Our favorite dive site outside the lagoon was Barracuda Point, and this incredible site certainly lived up to its name. This colorful wall attracts fish like a magnet. Here we encountered schools of trevally, barracuda, batfish, bumphead parrotfish, fusiliers, snappers, and sweetlips. We also saw crocodilefish, banded sea kraits, moray eels and reef sharks.

The Epaulette Shark

We enjoyed all our dives off Madang, however, our most memorable dives were at night when looking for a little endemic shark. For these dives we headed to Leper Island to dive a site called The Hood, in the hope of finding the most unique animal that lives in Madang — the hooded epaulette shark. Three of the nine species of epaulette shark live in Papua New Guinea’s waters, with the hooded epaulette shark the rarest. These small sharks hide in the coral by day and emerge at night to feed. But as we discovdered, they are very shy and nervous creatures.

We actually encountered a dozen hooded epaulette sharks, but most were hidden under a ledge or quickly disappeared into a hole when we got close. Fortunately, a few were brave enough to go about their business as we watched and photographed them, which entailed them walking over the coral using their fins, hence they are known as walking sharks.

These wonderful little sharks were not the only thing we saw on these night dives, as we also encountered cuttlefish, octopus, moray eels, crabs, shrimps, basket stars, and a conger eel.

With 40 to 100 feet (12 to 30 m) in visibility and a pleasant 84 F (29 C) water temperature, scuba diving in Madang is an overlooked gem, well worth a visit should you ever find yourself in this wild, welcoming land.  

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Part of the world-famous Coral Triangle, an area of outstanding marine biodiversity, the “Island of the Gods” will enchant scuba divers of all levels. With hundreds of fabulous dive sites to choose from, it can be tricky to know where to begin. Let’s take a look at a few of Bali’s top subaquatic gems.

Crystal Bay, Nusa Penida

Southeast of Bali and across the Badung Strait is the idyllic island of Nusa Penida. Scuba divers flock here between July and October for a chance to meet one of the ocean’s strangest creatures: the mola mola.

Averaging six feet (1.8 m) in length and weighing in at around 2,200 pounds (1,000 kg), the Indonesian giant sunfish is quite a character.

The best place to encounter this shy, gentle giant is Crystal Bay, a sunfish cleaning station located in the Ceningan Channel on the northwest coast of Nusa Penida. After a live drop by boat, divers descend to the observation station at around 100 feet (30 m).

The depth combined with the strong, unpredictable currents in the narrow channel make Crystal Bay a thrilling dive recommended for experienced divers only. It’s worth noting that temperatures in the channel can drop to as low as 64 F (18 C) so a thicker wetsuit is advisable. 

Eel Garden, Menjangan Island

Although less than five miles (8 km) northeast of Bali, the remote island of Menjangan feels a world away. As a part of the Bali Barat National Park since 1941, protected Menjangan offers divers a natural retreat from the heady feel of the mainland. Those who venture off the beaten track will be rewarded by one of the top-ranked dives in the region.

Eel Garden is an exquisite and varied site located on the island’s western edge. Divers descend from the boat onto a coral-encrusted sheer wall that starts at 60 feet (18 m) and drops away to more than 160 feet (50 m). Filter feeders such as gorgonian fans and massive whip corals stretch outward in the nutrient-rich water as divers drift past in the gentle current.

Take a closer look at the gorgonians and you might spot tiny pygmy seahorses with their tails wrapped around the coral. Keep looking out to the blue for a chance to see reef sharks and dogtooth tuna cruising past.

The sheer wall then slopes into a sandy, shallower plateau that is home to a mesmerizing expanse of masked garden eels. If you’re looking for an example of a vibrant, varied and healthy coral ecosystem, don’t miss Eel Garden.

Manta Point, Nusa Penida

On Nusa Penida’s southeast corner, Manta Point is a must-see destination for any scuba diver in Bali. Accessible by boat, this area is home to a resident population of majestic reef manta rays.

With pectoral fin spans of up to 18 feet (5.5 m), this graceful giant frequents the many cleaning stations in the area where small cleaner fish are on stand-by to remove pesky parasites.

As reef mantas are non-migratory it’s possible to see all kinds of fascinating behavior here, including mating trains, where multiple males compete for the attention of a single female, and the incredible acrobatics of plankton feeding.

Average depths at Manta Point are between 30 to 40 feet (10 to 12 m). Although this is a shallow, generally easy dive, there can be current in the area so get a proper orientation from your divemaster.

Seraya Secrets, Tulamben

If you want to experience the incredible biodiversity in Bali’s waters, we’ll let you in on a little secret: look in the muck. Specifically, the sprawling seabed of black volcanic sand better known as Seraya Secrets.

Located just off the beach near Tulamben, with an average depth of 33 feet (10 m), Seraya Secrets is home to the weird and wonderful. At first glance, the expanse of rubble, rock and coral fragments may appear to be a barren wasteland. But this couldn’t be farther from the truth. Divers in the know will tell you that this shallow muck site is a nutrient-rich treasure trove.

Ghost pipefish, harlequin shrimp, mimic octopus, pygmy seahorses, nudibranch, frogfish and more — the lengthy list of strange and marvelous marine species here will have you squealing into your reg.

To help you enjoy this dive to the max, we offer the following tips. First, be top of your buoyancy and fin control so you don’t disturb the silty bottom. Be patient and take your time during the dive. The slower you go, the more you’ll see and the longer your gas will last. Consider hiring an eagle-eyed Balinese divemaster to help you critter hunt.

USAT Liberty wreck, Tulamben

In January 1942, WWII United States Army Transport vessel Liberty was en route from Australia to the Philippines carrying rubber, railway parts, and explosives when it was torpedoed by the Japanese in the Lombok Strait.

After a failed attempt to salvage its cargo, the 412-foot (125 m) Liberty was beached in Tulamben, on Bali’s east coast. When Mount Agung erupted in 1963, powerful lava flow pushed the wreck offshore.

In the decades since, the Liberty has been conquered by spectacular colonies of stunning corals and become home to an incredible variety of marine life. Resting on a bed of volcanic black sand in just 65 feet (20 m) of water and 130 feet (40 m) from the shore, Liberty is now one of the world’s top wreck dives and among the most accessible. 

Schools of bumphead parrotfish, barracuda and trevally greet divers, and the wreck itself is teeming with life. Colorful nudibranchs, tiny pygmy seahorses, camouflaged scorpionfish and territorial gobies are permanent residents.

Wide-angle and macro photographers alike will be in underwater heaven. The Liberty also makes for an unforgettable night dive.

How to Get the Most Out of Diving Bali

One of the best things about diving in Bali is its variety. From convivial hostels to glamorous five-star resorts, there are options for all divers and budgets. To get the most out of scuba diving in Bali, it’s important to consider your location. Travel time between islands and within Bali requires patience.

Avoid staying in Denpasar, Kuta, or Sanur; there’s no diving nearby and commuting to the coast will eat into precious dive time. Consider a resort on the coast near your chosen dive sites to reduce your travel time.

There are hundreds of dive operators in Bali. Research and make sure you select a reputable dive center with small group sizes that puts your safety and enjoyment first.

If time is of the essence, consider a liveaboard to help you get the most bang for your buck. Eat, sleep, dive, rinse, repeat.

Underwater conditions in Bali can vary, even on a single dive. It’s best if you’re certified as an advanced open water diver before your trip so you can access the deeper dives. Experience with boat drift diving and currents is also helpful.

The Best Time to Dive Bali

Thanks to its location on the equator, Bali enjoys a warm, tropical climate with lows of 68 F (20 C) in January to highs of 93 F (33 C) in October. The wet monsoon season runs from January to March. This period naturally coincides with the low tourist season, where resorts and beaches are quieter and accommodation is often more affordable.

Diving is not ideal during the wet season as the rain has a negative effect on visibility. Savvy macro and muck divers might, however, find this to their liking. The dry, sunny season runs from April to October. The dry season, although busier, provides more favorable conditions for scuba diving and as is generally considered the best season to dive in Bali.

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The Maltese archipelago is the collective name given to the three islands of Malta, Gozo, and Comino, which sit surrounded by the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean just off the southern tip of Sicily. Malta is the largest of the three islands and is the favorite destination for tourists. It is also extremely popular among scuba divers, with more than 50,000 of them visiting this beautiful island every year pre-Covid.

Getting to Malta

Getting to Malta is simple, with mainstream and budget airlines flying in from almost all European countries. If you are traveling from further afield, you may need to fly via one of these countries to get to Malta.

If you are planning to dive the epic dive sites surrounding Gozo, you must first fly to Malta (Air Malta) from almost any European country and then allow an hour to get to the Circewwa Harbor, which is Malta’s northernmost point. Once you are there, buy your ferry tickets at the terminal and take the 30-minute ferry ride over to this beautiful island. When returning to Malta from Gozo, go straight to the Mgarr Terminal in Gozo and take the 30-minute back. It’s quite simple and ferries run all day, so no problem if you miss one.

What to expect in Malta

The waters surrounding the islands are home to over 100 dive sites, all with their own unique qualities. Home to some of the cleanest water found in the Mediterranean, you’ll never fall short of things to see in Malta.

Visibility around the islands of Malta is excellent and can be up to 100 feet (30 m) in calm waters. And, most of these top dive sites are only a short distance from each other, so you can easily dive all morning. Some may require a boat journey, but they are all very close by—perfect if you get a little seasick.

Once you’re on the islands, getting around is simple with buses, taxis, and even bikes. Bikes are great if you would like to get some adventure and exercise, unless you are staying on the island of Comino. There are no tarmacked roads and only a handful of cars. It is a small island, with only a few places to stay and provides an adventure all in itself.

Malta’s underwater world is spectacular, and often places in the top 10 of European diving. There is a range of diving to suit every level of diver, from open-water newbies to highly trained technical divers. There are a number of strange rock formations, caves, swim-throughs, drop-offs, mysterious tunnels, beautifully colored reefs rich with life, and epic underwater topography.

Malta also has a lot to offer topside. With its inviting natural harbors, cliff edges, bays, and creeks, you won’t fall short of things to see on Malta and its sister islands.

There are no seasons for diving in Malta, as you can pretty much dive here year-round. However, January and February are the coldest months. Even then, the land temperatures average 55 Fahrenheit (13 C), with the water temperature staying at around 61 F (16 C). The warmest months are June through to November, where you’ll only need a shorty or a 3 mm wetsuit. Diving during these summer months can get pretty busy with tourists visiting for their summer vacations.

Top sites for scuba diving in Malta

Santa Maria Caves, Comino

Where are they?

The Santa Maria Caves are located on the north side of the small island of Comino and are hugely popular among divers because of their fascinating cave systems.

What makes them special?

There are 10 caves and each has its own unique beauty. Some offer beautiful scenery; others offer swim-throughs and large underwater tunnels. If you are a budding photographer, don’t miss this opportunity. Additionally, dive guides will usually bring some fish food to feed the large numbers of sea bream in the area. This makes for a great experience, enjoyed by all.

Extra details:

Pretty much all dive operators travel to this dive site, whether you are staying on Comino, Gozo or Malta itself. This site does require a boat ride, even from Comino. The average depth is around 50 to 65 feet (15 to 20 m) depending on which route your guide takes. This is the perfect dive for open water divers who would like to see some spectacular sights as currents are minimal and caves are large. Keep an eye out for nudibranchs, crabs, eels, mullet, spiny lobster, damselfish, and morays.

When to Go:

Unless otherwise noted, visitors can dive this site and all the following ones year-round.

P-31 Wreck Dive, Comino

Where is it? Located off the coast of Comino lies the P-31 wreck dive.

What makes it special?

This wreck began life as an East German minesweeper. In 1992, it was sold to Malta and renamed P-31. Malta used it as a patrol boat until 2009, when it was scuttled and became a spectacular dive site.

Extra details:

Most, if not all dive operators, visit this top dive site. This is the perfect dive site if you are an open-water diver, looking for some wreck diving experience. The boat was cleared before it was scuttled, meaning that there are no snags, allowing novice divers to semi-penetrate the wreck without fear of getting stuck in a tight spot. The wreck lies 60 feet (18 m) below sea level. Watch out for lizardfish that call this wreck their home.

Inland Sea and the Blue Hole, Gozo

Where is it?

The Blue Hole is located in Dweijra, Gozo and is by far the most famous dive site in Malta.

What makes it so special?

This dive site overlooks another spectacular dive site called the Azure Window. The natural arch, for which the Azure Window is named, collapsed into the sea in 2017, scattering rocks and boulders into the waters below. The dive starts like very few other dives, in an inland sea pool, with a tunnel that leads to a large hole that opens up to offer a phenomenal view of the wide, open ocean. Home to strange but interesting rock formations and epic marine life, this dive site should not be missed. As the drop-off is so steep and severe, it can give divers the feeling of being right at the edge of the world.

Extra details:

This top dive is suitable for all levels of diver as there are a number of routes that you can take depending on your experience—just be sure to discuss this with your dive guide before embarking on the dive. This dive can go down to 72 feet (22 m) depending on your level of expertise. Keep an eye out for sea bream, octopus, lobsters and moray eels.

Bristol Blenheim Bomber, Malta

Where is it?

This aircraft wreck is located off the east coast of the main island of Malta, on the seabed of Xorb il-Ghagin.

What makes it so special?

The Blenheim was a light World War II British aircraft. It is in relatively good condition, with its wings and engine still intact. There is nothing more fascinating than seeing a piece of history that was meant to be up in the air, now resting on the seabed. Keep a look out for radios and even bombs that still surround the wreck. Also, don’t miss the stunning marine creatures that have made this wreck their home.

Extra details:

This is a dive site for advanced and highly qualified divers, as it is a continuous dive that goes down to a depth of 138 feet (42 m). A dive to this location also requires special planning. As it’s quite a deep dive, it may be a good idea to participate in a brief a course with your chosen dive operator so that all the information will be f

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Ambergris Caye

As the biggest and most popular of Belize’s cays, Ambergris offers impressive visibility coupled with pleasant, easy diving. Ambergris is ideal for casual divers or anyone traveling with non-divers. With 25 miles (40 km) of barrier reef just 1 mile (1.6 km) offshore, getting your dive fix doesn’t mean sacrificing your whole day.

The gorgeous coral reef system here features a classic Caribbean spur and groove formation. Long fingers of reef run perpendicular to the shore, creating caves, swim-throughs, ledges, and all kinds of nooks and crannies that play host to an immense amount of marine life.

Hawksbill, green and loggerhead sea turtles frequent the area, and join the elegant spotted eagle rays gliding along the coast. If you’re looking for sharks, here — more than any other cay — you have the chance of seeing nurse and gray Caribbean reef sharks. The best dive sites in Ambergris include Shark Ray Alley, Hol Chan, and Tacklebox Canyons.

Gladden Spit

Just off the Placencia peninsula, on the southeast coast of Belize, lies the very special Gladden Spit, part of the Silk Cay Marine Preserve. Between March and June, a mass of tropical fish comes together to spawn around the full moon each lunar cycle.

Dog snapper, mutton snapper, cubera, and many others congregate to mate and spawn in their thousands. And all this activity attracts a special visitor: the whale shark.

The sloping reef starts at 60 feet (18 m) and drops away to over 160 feet (50 m). To dive here and catch all the action, consult a local marine biologist and dive operator. Ensure both you and your buddy keep a respectful distance from these majestic and endangered creatures.

Glover’s Reef Atoll

Glover’s is the southernmost of Belize’s three atolls and the most remote. It’s an exquisite, oblong-shaped reef roughly 18 miles (29 km) long and only 7 miles (11 km) wide. A pristine, shallow lagoon freckled with over 700 patch reefs and five tiny islands can be found in its center.

Getting to Glover’s Atoll can be challenging and time-consuming, but those that brave the journey will be rewarded. Basic, no-frills accommodation is the norm, making it an affordable and appealing option for divers on a budget. The end result is that the human footprint is refreshingly small here, and reef health thrives as a result.

Nurse sharks, turtles, and eagle rays are present throughout the year. Whale sharks, while uncommon, have also been known to cruise by. Hammerheads and tiger sharks frequent the rougher northeast waters. Rare and endangered stands of elkhorn coral thrive in the shallow waters off the northwest coast. As with elsewhere in Belize, tropical reef fish abound. Signature dives in Glover’s Reef include Long Cay Wall, the Pinnacles, Southwest Cay Wall, Aquarium, and Shark Point.

Lighthouse Reef Atoll

Lighthouse is the easternmost atoll in Belize’s Barrier Reef. Although it’s just 50 miles (80 km) from Belize City, its reefs have been hailed as the healthiest and most developed in the region. Given its position in the Atlantic Ocean, it can be subject to strong winds. Luckily, there is no shortage of fabulous sites on the lee side to choose from.  

The reefs here display dazzling marine diversity and abundant life. Schools of cobalt blue Creole wrasse are common, as are purple gorgonian fan corals that filter feed along the sheer walls. Large brown barrel sponges often hold protected Nassau grouper, which enjoy the swirling jacuzzi inside. Take a closer look to find banded cleaner shrimps offering a free gill cleaning.

The best sites here are wall dives, so divers should be comfortable with both drift and deep diving techniques. Top dive sites in Lighthouse include Half Moon Cay, Long Cay, and the world-famous Belize Blue Hole.

Turneffe Reef Atoll

At 30 miles (48 km) long and 10 miles (16 km) wide, Turneffe Atoll is the largest in the entire Mesoamerican Barrier Reef. Surrounded by outstanding natural beauty and with more than 70 dive sites just a quick boat ride away, the only hard part is leaving. And while it may be big, the pace here is perfect for divers who want to get away from the hustle and bustle of the more populous resorts.

The unique ecosystem here boasts more than 200 mangrove islands, making it an ideal nursery for the endemic and elusive white-spotted toadfish. Manatees and even saltwater crocodiles can be spotted near lagoons in the south. Its nutrient-rich ecology has also made Turneffe an important spawning area for reef fish.

Such diversity means dive sites to enchant all levels. Beginner divers will love the western side’s shallow reefs, while the deep walls and varied topography in the east and south will delight experienced divers. Try to take a plunge at The Elbow, Lindsey’s Back Porch, Chasbo’s Corner, and Jo-Jo’s.

Get the most out of scuba diving in Belize

With so many fabulous dive sites to choose from in a sprawling barrier reef system, a liveaboard will give you the opportunity to taste a bit of everything. Itineraries are robust and diverse, ticking off many of the signatures sites listed above. Most offer an 8-day, 7-night trip and the opportunity to do as many as 28 dives!

If spending a week on a boat isn’t your idea of heaven, check out an all-inclusive dive resort on the reef of your choice. Accommodation wise, the variety and quality are excellent.

The Best Time to Dive Belize

With subtropical climate, scuba diving in Belize is possible year-round. But as a tropical location, it has both a dry and a wet season. The latter runs from June to November, with most rain falling between August and October. Dry season runs from December through May. For your best chance of seeing all of Belize’s critters and diving in excellent conditions, visit between December and March.

The post The Best Scuba Diving in Belize appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.

WHAT ARE THE COVID-19 REQUIREMENTS FOR ENTRY INTO MEXICO?

According to CNN Travel, visitors to Mexico don’t need to provide a negative Covid-19 test result or quarantine on arrival. You will need to complete a health declaration form and scan the associated QR code on arrival.

WHAT ARE THE COVID-19 REQUIREMENTS FOR RE-ENTRY INTO THE USA?

Upon departure for the United States, all travelers (including U.S. citizens and fully vaccinated travelers) are required to have a negative Covid-19 test result no more than three days before they board their flights to the U.S.

The CDC Mexico guide outlines what to do after returning to the U.S., including when to self-isolate and when follow-up tests are required.

WHAT IS THE COVID-19 SITUATION IN MEXICO?

Mexico is open to travelers and has a four-tier traffic light system of restrictions for each state. The restrictions will vary depending on the area you travel to, though as of June 2, 2021, most states are listed as green or yellow. Yellow means all work can resume and public gatherings can take place, and green means there are no restrictions.

According to the Reuters COVID-19 tracker on June 2, 2021, there have been 2,413,742 infections and 223,568 coronavirus-related deaths reported in the country since the pandemic began.

IS IT WORTH VISITING MEXICO? IS ANYTHING OPEN?

Absolutely. Businesses are open and Mexico is welcoming travelers.

WHAT YOU’LL SEE IN MEXICO AND WHY IT’S WORTH IT

Scuba diving in Mexico offers something for just about every dive experience level and interest. Wherever you go, the waters are full of life, and you’ll be surrounded by Mexico’s vibrant culture and rich history.

With numerous dive destinations to choose from, you can go diving in Mexico year-round and have the adventure of a lifetime. Here are our top dive spots to visit in this breathtaking country.

Guadalupe Island

Ask any diver where to go diving with great white sharks and they will likely tell you Guadalupe Island. It takes a 24-hour boat ride to reach this remote rocky island, but the rewards are well worth it.

Guadalupe’s waters are bright blue and calm, making it perfect for cage diving with great white sharks, which congregate here in large numbers. It is also the only place in the world where you can see great white sharks in relatively warm and astonishingly clear water. All of which makes Guadalupe the top cage-diving destination in the world.

Socorro Island

Socorro Island is Mexico’s premier liveaboard diving destination, renowned for marine megafauna diving and striking underwater landscapes.

Part of the Revillagigedo Islands, this group of four volcanic islands is famous for having numerous friendly giant Pacific manta rays, especially at San Benedicto Island’s manta cleaning station The Boiler.

These wild islands also host abundant sharks including silky, Galapagos, whitetips and silvertip sharks. Depending on when you go diving at Socorro, you’ll also likely see bottlenose dolphins (January to March), humpback whales (December to April) and whale sharks (November and December).

Cabo Pulmo

If you love coral-reef diving, don’t miss the Cabo Pulmo National Park. It is home to a 20,000-year-old reef, which is the oldest reef on the west coast of America.

With clear waters and sheltered diving, it’s easy to spot some of the 6,000 marine life species that call this reef home. There is plenty of macro life and reef fish, as well as passing sharks and humpback whales.

That said, diving with schooling mobula rays is the real highlight of diving at Cabo Pulmo. These rays congregate in enormous groups at the Sea of Cortez every year.

Take a trip to nearby La Paz for the chance to dive with schooling hammerheads, sea lions, and whales. You’ll also find excellent wreck diving, caves, and seamounts in the area.

Cozumel

Another of Mexico’s best reef-diving destinations, Cozumel offers year-round diving at thriving reefs that are protected by the Cozumel Reefs National Park.

Diving in Cozumel is for every diver. As well as exciting drift and wall dives, there are easy shallow dives and deep dive sites. All of them feature the lure of azure waters and hundreds of fish species. And if that’s not enough, there are endless white sand beaches to relax on after your dives.

Isla Mujeres and Cancun

lsla Mujeres is a picture-perfect island in the Caribbean Sea, just off the coast of Cancun. Renowned for its idyllic beaches and coral reefs, it is also Mexico’s best destination for swimming with whale sharks.

These gentle giants visit Isla Mujeres every year from mid-May to September and various local operators can take you out to snorkel with them. While you’re there, be sure to visit MUSA — the Cancun Underwater Museum of Art.

Make sure you take time to visit nearby Playa del Carmen to go diving with bull sharks (November to March) and go cenote diving from Cancun. Exploring Mexico’s beautiful cenotes is a unique experience not to be missed.

Kathryn Curzon, a shark conservationist and dive travel writer for Scuba Schools International (SSI), wrote this article.

The post The Diver’s Guide to Mexico in Covid Times appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.

WHAT ARE THE COVID-19 REQUIREMENTS FOR ENTRY INTO BELIZE?

All travelers must provide an official vaccine card showing they have received a single or dual dose vaccine at least two weeks before arrival in Belize. If you cannot provide a vaccine card, you will need to show proof of an alternative negative test result. Details of acceptable COVID-19 tests are available on the Belize Tourism Board COVID-19 Update for Travelers.

If you don’t have proof of a negative test result, you will need to take a COVID-19 test upon arrival. If you test positive at Belize international airport you will be placed in mandatory quarantine for a minimum of 14 days, at your expense.

WHAT ARE THE COVID-19 REQUIREMENTS FOR RE-ENTRY INTO THE USA?

Upon departure for the United States, all travelers (including U.S. citizens and fully vaccinated travelers) are required to have a negative COVID-19 test result no more than three days before they board their flights to the U.S.

There are numerous Belize approved COVID-19 testing sites where you can get your pre-departure test done.

The CDC Belize guide outlines what to do after returning to the U.S., including when to self-isolate and when you may need a follow-up test.

WHAT IS THE COVID-19 SITUATION IN BELIZE?

Travelers are welcome in Belize, and you can move about freely so long as you comply with Belize’s COVID-19 safety measures.

According to Worldometer, Belize had 83 active cases as of May 24, 2021. According to the Reuters COVID-19 tracker as of the same day, there have been 12,764 infections and 323 coronavirus-related deaths reported in the country since the pandemic began.

IS IT WORTH VISITING BELIZE? IS ANYTHING OPEN?

Yes! Businesses are open and Belize has created a new Tourism Gold Standard to keep you safe during your visit. This extensive program includes accommodations, tour operators, transport providers and more that are all certified and trained in enhanced health and safety measures. All of this means you can relax and enjoy exploring this gorgeous country.

WHAT YOU’LL SEE In BELIZE AND WHY IT’S WORTH IT

With over 400 idyllic islands and coral reefs stretching to the horizon, it’s no wonder Belize diving is so popular. This small destination packs a punch above and below the waterline for any adventurous traveler and has some of the most famous dive sites in the world.

With the longest unbroken barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere and an abundance of dive destinations, there is something for every diver in Belize. New divers can enjoy shallow coral reefs while experienced divers get their thrills at the outer reefs and deeper dive sites. Take your pick from fringe, patch, and barrier reefs, plus coral atolls. Belize has it all and more.

One of the most biodiverse ecosystems in the world, Belize has no shortage of awesome marine life. Green, hawksbill and loggerhead turtles are often cruise by divers, and the reefs are teeming with colorful reef fish, pelagics, and hundreds of coral and sponge species.

If you go diving in Belize around the full moons of December to March, you can also witness thousands of spawning Nassau groupers. These critically endangered fish are certainly an impressive sight, growing to over 3 feet (1 m) long and weighing up to 55 pounds (25 kilograms).

With consistently warm waters, diving in Belize is great year-round. But if you love whale sharks — and who doesn’t — make sure you visit Belize from April to June — especially at Gladden Spit, Placencia.

Ambergris Caye

Diving in Ambergris Caye is a highlight of any dive trip to Belize and offers easy access to Belize’s world-famous dives. There are over 40 accessible dive sites dotted along the eastern side of the island, with lush coral gardens, deep canyons, swim-throughs and gently sloping sand flats.

It is also a perfect departure point to access the famous Great Blue Hole, Lighthouse Reef, and Hol Chan Marine Reserve. 

Lighthouse Reef

Lighthouse Reef might be best-known for featuring the Great Blue Hole, but it is also an epic dive destination in its own right. There are numerous wrecks to explore, exciting walls and the popular Half Moon Caye. With crystal-clear waters, Caribbean reef sharks, stingrays and plenty of macro life, it is a great place to while away your days.

The Great Blue Hole

Belize blue hole diving is an experience not to be missed if you are an advanced diver. Just make sure you watch your gauges as you plunge into the seemingly endless depths.

At more than 1,000 feet (300 m) across and 400 feet (120 m) deep, you’ve got to see this dive site to believe it. As you descend into the depths, you’ll leave the coral-fringed rim behind and find yourself surrounded by stalactites and stalagmites.

A lack of light means there is little coral growth or fish to see at depth but the sharks appearing out of the dark more than make up for it.

Turneffe Atoll

Turneffe Atoll is the most biodiverse of Belize’s outer islands and has over 200 cays with mangroves, lagoons and flats that host abundant fish life. There are big walls swathed in corals and the aptly named Aquarium dive site has numerous reef fish. If you love swift currents and big pelagics, don’t miss diving at The Elbow.

Whichever dive sites you choose at Turneffe Atoll, expect colorful reef life and passing sharks and sea turtles.

Hol Chan Marine Reserve

Another top Belize dive destination, Hol Chan Marine Reserve is packed with marine life and has interesting coral formations. It is one of the best places to go night diving in Belize and offers diving among beautiful coral reefs, seagrass beds and mangrove forests.

The Wreck dive site, a 30-foot-long (10 m) sunken barge, is great for rust fans and famous Shark Ray Alley is the place to go for swimming with numerous laidback nurse sharks.

Glover’s Reef

Make sure you leave time to dive at Glover’s Reef when you visit Belize. This unique dive destination has over 700 pristine patch reefs with an array of different dive sites. There are shallow areas perfect for new divers and an underwater cliff that plunges over 3,000 feet (900 m) at The Wall.

Gladden Spit, Placencia

Gladden Spit hosts an unmissable wildlife phenomenon around the full moons of March to June each year. Thousands of fish spawn around Gladden Spit at those times, attracting numerous whale sharks to the area. It is one of the best places to go scuba diving with whale sharks in the Caribbean — don’t miss it!

Kathryn Curzon, a shark conservationist and dive travel writer for Scuba Schools International (SSI), wrote this article.

The post The Diver’s Guide to Belize in Covid Times appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.

WHAT ARE THE COVID-19 REQUIREMENTS FOR ENTRY INTO BONAIRE?

If you are 13 years or older, you can only travel to Bonaire if you provide a negative Covid-19 test result. Fully vaccinated travelers must also provide a negative result to visit.

All travelers to Bonaire, 0 years and older, must also submit a completed health declaration before departure. A printed copy of the health declaration and Covid-19 test result must be provided at check-in, boarding, and arrival on Bonaire.

Bonaire also advises all travelers to make sure their health insurance will cover the costs of medical care during their stay, including care related to Covid-19.

Travelers who provide a negative Covid-19 test result do not have to quarantine on Bonaire. If you travel to Bonaire without providing a negative test result, you will have to go into quarantine for 10 days at your own expense.

There is a helpful Q&A for travelers to Bonaire on the crisis website of the Public Entity Bonaire.

WHAT ARE THE COVID-19 REQUIREMENTS FOR RE-ENTRY INTO THE USA?

Upon departure for the United States, all travelers (including U.S. citizens and fully vaccinated travelers) must have a negative Covid-19 test result no more than three days before they board their flights to the U.S.

The CDC Bonaire guide outlines what to do after returning to the U.S., including when to self-isolate and when follow-up tests are required.

WHAT IS THE COVID-19 SITUATION IN BONAIRE?

Bonaire is open to travelers and has safety measures in place. Covid-19 infections are decreasing in Bonaire and there were 18 active cases as of May 17, 2021. According to the Reuters Covid-19 tracker, there have been 1,610 infections and 17 coronavirus-related deaths in Bonaire, Sint Eustatius and Saba since the pandemic began.

IS IT WORTH VISITING BONAIRE? IS ANYTHING OPEN?

Absolutely! Diving in Bonaire in Covid times is absolutely worthwhile. Travelers can move about the country freely as long as they comply with Bonaire’s safety measures. Dive centers, restaurants and other facilities are open, making Bonaire a great vacation destination.

WHAT YOU’LL SEE IN BONAIRE AND WHY IT’S WORTH IT

Go diving in Bonaire in Covid times and you’ll be exploring one of the best dive destinations in the world. Rightly known as the shore-diving capital of the world, this gorgeous island has numerous dive sites, offering something for every diver.

Take a short walk into Bonaire’s turquoise waters and you’ll find pristine coral reefs, thriving seagrass beds, fascinating wrecks and mangroves — all of which are bustling with Caribbean marine life.

It’s no surprise that Bonaire is considered the premier Caribbean biodiversity hotspot. The oldest marine reserve in the world, the Bonaire National Marine Park, has protected these waters since 1979. There are hundreds of different fish species on the reefs, plus seahorses, frogfish, nudibranchs and other prized critters. Bonaire’s corals are healthy and eagle rays, dolphins and sea turtles often pass by.

If you love exploring at your own pace or want to combine diving with a family holiday, Bonaire is for you. Either bring your gear or rent some at one of Bonaire’s dive centers, grab a rental truck with room for tanks in the back, and start exploring.

With an arid climate and little rainfall, Bonaire offers year-round diving and exceptionally clear waters. The water temperature rarely falls below 77 F (25 C) and peaks around 84 F (29 C). Visit from December to April to make the most of this island paradise.

Dive Sites

1,000 Steps

This famous shore dive begins with numerous steps — though it will feel like 1,000 when you’re wearing your gear, it’s not quite so many — down to the beach and is a perfect spot for snorkeling and shallow diving. The waters are clear; there is minimal current; and the beach is idyllic. Dive in and you’ll discover a thriving reef with beautiful corals, numerous fish, barracudas, and passing turtles. 

Hilma Hooker

The 236-foot-long (72 m) Hilma Hooker is one of Bonaire’s best-loved dive sites, offering a spectacular wreck for advanced divers. Sitting at around 100 feet (30 m) between two reefs, this freighter is encrusted with marine life and surrounded by huge schools of fish. It is an ideal spot for underwater photographers. There’s a bit of a surface swim to reach the wreck, which is typically also dive-able by boat with your dive center.

Salt Pier

New divers won’t want to miss Salt Pier. It’s an easy and shallow shore dive with pillars covered in vibrant soft corals, hard corals, sea fans and sponges. Large schools of fish surround the pillars and sea turtles glide among the corals.

Karpata

Known for its incredible underwater panoramas, the Karpata dive site is another perfect spot for photographers. The dive starts around 20 feet (6 m) and quickly drops down to 100 feet (30 m). There you will find coral formations and ridges surrounded by fish life and numerous sea turtles. There is also a huge ship anchor embedded in the coral.

Kathryn Curzon, a shark conservationist and dive travel writer for Scuba Schools International (SSI), wrote this article.

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